Lee PrecisionTitan ReloadingReloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters Supply
Load DataWidenersRepackboxRotoMetals2
Inline Fabrication
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: List of parts for a casting pid controller, did I get everything?

  1. #1

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    northern Minn. in the boonies
    Posts
    2,175
    Just my 2 cents
    On the thermocouple the top of the probe should be metal. An not plastic. The fire from charring wood often covers the top of the thermocouple.
    You will also need a container to put all of your goodies in. Metal boxes with vent holes are used the most. A lot of secondhand stores have many shapes and sizes (think cookie tins). And most cost under 50 cents. Or if cheep like me. All old comp. towers have an inner box used to rout power through. They are just about the rite size + they have a small vent fan and a heat sink and a power supply connector.
    You may also want a pair of quick connects. For the thermocouple line
    Not used as parts but good to have. A Dremal with cut off wheels. To cut the correct size openings. Kevin
    Hatch (a member here) can give you any help needed. He has all of the parts needed.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy KMac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    377
    You have a socket type connector on your probe. You would need something like this:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GZ84QKA...v_ov_lig_dp_it
    and then wire that to your PID.
    Or use a Thermocouple probe with spade type connectors like this:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XJ0VUBG...v_ov_lig_dp_it
    And the probe above does have plastic on the top so it could catch fire like kbstenberg mentioned.
    I have not built one myself. I have bought all of the parts but have not put it together. So you may want to get advice from someone with real experience.
    Last edited by KMac; 10-07-2018 at 08:16 AM.

  4. #4
    ADMIN



    HATCH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    Posts
    6,702
    you need a enclosure
    https://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=262
    You need a fuse
    https://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=593
    You need a power switch
    https://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=754
    Correct TC probe
    https://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=650


    You can use a simple toggle switch that you can buy at any local parts store for $5 or so
    You want to switch the power for the PID itself.
    You do not switch the main power that handles everything.
    The PID doesn't have that much current and if you kill the PID then it kills the output the the SSR which in turn kills the pot power.

    The parts you have picked out in your first post come to $75 and you don't even have everything listed that you need.
    You can purchase a completed PID for $125 so for $50 more

    And if you have ANY questions on building your own PID just shoot me a PM and I will be more then happy to help you

    Yes, I sell PIDs. But I also help members that want to build it themselves too.
    Selling PIDs is more of a service then a money maker as you can see from the cost of the parts.
    Last edited by HATCH; 10-07-2018 at 08:37 AM.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    7,687
    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    The parts you have picked out in your first post come to $75 and you don't even have everything listed that you need.
    You can purchase a completed PID for $125 so for $50 more

    And if you have ANY questions on building your own PID just shoot me a PM and I will be more then happy to help you

    Yes, I sell PIDs. But I also help members that want to build it themselves too.
    Selling PIDs is more of a service then a money maker as you can see from the cost of the parts.
    I always admire anyone that sells or builds things for sale yet will help others. Good on you!

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Douglas Ridge Rifle Club, Eagle Creek, Oregon
    Posts
    219
    Thanks everyone, I'm just going to purchase a unit from Hatch, instead of building my own.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master bbogue1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Western Texas
    Posts
    520
    Good move you will get a very professional PID that works with a thermocouple that also works.
    VOTE, VOTE, VOTE often. In dealing with potential dishonesty or corruption, Something you might keep in mind is a revealing quote by S.W. Erdnase in his book The Expert at the Card Table "Almost every ruse in the game is more or less dependent upon another one."
    Politicians are like babies diapers, they should be changed often and for the same reason. Mark Twain

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    East Arkansas where I55 & I40 come together and then split
    Posts
    689
    I bought a kit from he who must not be named about 6 or 7 years ago. I think I paid what Hatch wants for his complete controller. I ordered extra probes as I use the controller
    for an electric smoker as well as the casting pot and a powder coat oven. I keep extra probes around for emergencies. There is nothing more frustrating than a probe going out
    in the middle of a casting session and the controller shows the melt at 500° and you are getting frosty bullets. I hooked up one of the spares and the temp showed over 800°.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check