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Thread: Recycled Melted Bullet Alloy

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

    alamogunr's Avatar
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    I've read in several places that you should try to keep your tin content less than or equal to your antimony content. Although it saves $$ there is also a metallurgical reason that I can't recall at present.
    John
    W.TN

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by alamogunr View Post
    I've read in several places that you should try to keep your tin content less than or equal to your antimony content. Although it saves $$ there is also a metallurgical reason that I can't recall at present.
    I got a headache reading it, but Glen Fryxell's "From Ingot to Target" describes that tin and antimony in equal amounts combine to form an "intermetallic compound", the effect of which is to allow greater amounts of each metal to be dissolved into the alloy, and which also changes the structure and therefore the properties of the solid alloy, including characteristics like hardness and brittleness.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master popper's Avatar
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    1/2 or 1/4, depending on what you need. 50/50 Sb/Sn is eutectic, lowest solidus temp for Sb/Sn combination. Some like it, I don't need it. Adding tin doesn't hurt anything as long as it is NOT > Sb, just costs more. It does help casting with purer alloys where high expansion at low fps is required.
    Whatever!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check