Bobtailing a 1911

[TheGrimReaper]

Okay fellers I see a RIA 1911 10MM in my future. Who here has bobtailed theirs?
Did you use a jig and any tricks since I ain't got a drill press?
I am thinking of having my GS install and I file and finish.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Attachment 227975
Click to enlarge.

Funny this should come up, as I just recently finished modifying an RIA .45 ACP 1911 that bit me. There are at least two ways you can go on the project, maybe more. On this one I shortened the hammer spur, but it still would bite. If you shorten them too much they become difficult to thumb cock without completely changing your grip. I took a little more off, but stopped where you see it in the photo, and added a King Gunsight/Gunworks grip safety. As you can see they are a bit different from the current pattern of beavertail safeties which have an upward swoop. The King model just extends backward. It does not fit as closely to the frame, and is adaptable to either a modified hammer like this one or a commander-type burr hammer. It is up to the gunsmith to make the adaptation for the particular hammer, and in this case I ground a dish-shaped place to receive the hammer spur, and no more bite. It looks o.k. and requires no modification to the frame, just installation of the part, but you'll likely be unable to find one because the company that made them is out of business. Years ago I bought several, and this was the last from my parts drawer, but look around and you might turn one up.

I have done several others, and have used the Ed Brown beavertail safety. This requires purchasing a button-type jig that passes through the hole in the frame for the safety's pin. It screws down tightly on both sides of the frame, is made of hardened steel, and one files or grids off anything sticking out past the button, and forms the metal to match the contour of the button. The button is removed and an Ed Brown beavertail grip safety installed. The fit is usually very good without any more work. A Dremel tool works well for 90% of the grinding, and the jig is available from Brownell's. These are usually paired up with one of the commander hammers or rounded skeletonized hammers.

[lefty o]

^ thats not what he's talking about. bobtailing is essentially rounding the bottom of the frame/mag spring housing.

[bob208]

use a long a1 grip safety and a commander rounded hammer.

[lefty o]

https://secure.arnzenarms.com/sites/...?itok=bNF1dWYh thats bobtailed folks, its not a grip safety.

[TheGrimReaper]

Attachment 227975
Click to enlarge.

Funny this should come up, as I just recently finished modifying an RIA .45 ACP 1911 that bit me. There are at least two ways you can go on the project, maybe more. On this one I shortened the hammer spur, but it still would bite. If you shorten them too much they become difficult to thumb cock without completely changing your grip. I took a little more off, but stopped where you see it in the photo, and added a King Gunsight/Gunworks grip safety. As you can see they are a bit different from the current pattern of beavertail safeties which have an upward swoop. The King model just extends backward. It does not fit as closely to the frame, and is adaptable to either a modified hammer like this one or a commander-type burr hammer. It is up to the gunsmith to make the adaptation for the particular hammer, and in this case I ground a dish-shaped place to receive the hammer spur, and no more bite. It looks o.k. and requires no modification to the frame, just installation of the part, but you'll likely be unable to find one because the company that made them is out of business. Years ago I bought several, and this was the last from my parts drawer, but look around and you might turn one up.

I have done several others, and have used the Ed Brown beavertail safety. This requires purchasing a button-type jig that passes through the hole in the frame for the safety's pin. It screws down tightly on both sides of the frame, is made of hardened steel, and one files or grids off anything sticking out past the button, and forms the metal to match the contour of the button. The button is removed and an Ed Brown beavertail grip safety installed. The fit is usually very good without any more work. A Dremel tool works well for 90% of the grinding, and the jig is available from Brownell's. These are usually paired up with one of the commander hammers or rounded skeletonized hammers.

It is not.....but it is some good info to know. I appreciate it.

[therealhitman]

Always good to learn from the mistakes of others. He does a decent job and one tiny flub.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Oh--sorry! Bob tail, bob hammer, bob, bob, bob...........