RotoMetals2Graf & SonsStainLess Steel MediaTitan Reloading
Inline FabricationRepackboxLee PrecisionWideners
MidSouth Shooters Supply
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: SAA timing.

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy

    HABCAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    East Central Alberta, Kanada
    Posts
    892

    SAA timing.

    We would very much appreciate it if anyone here can explain in detail for dummies how to re-time a Pietta Colt clone SAA?? The second and third 'clicks' occur right together and bind the cylinder when attempting to reload. I think sumpin' got bent when a borrower 'fanned' it!
    Life Member NRA.
    Member: RWVA.http://www.appleseedinfo.org/smf/
    Member: WRSA http://westernrifleshooters.blogspot.com/
    Founder: Guns of the Golden West (Show group).
    Founder: Nosehills Gun Club.
    Founder: IPSC in Alberta.
    Retired from Instructing, and just about everything else!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Southern Arizona
    Posts
    3,177
    You need to get hold of Jerry Kuhnhausenís book on repairing and maintaining Colt SAA revolvers. It contains clear instructions and drawings of what happens as the hammer is cocked and how to time the unlocking, carry-up and relocking of the cylinder by the bolt and pawl.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Near Mazomanie, Wi.
    Posts
    930
    A search will bring up many sources on timing the Pietta clone. There is also another book "Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West" or something like that.
    NRA Life
    NMLRA Life
    F&AM

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy

    HABCAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    East Central Alberta, Kanada
    Posts
    892
    Kuhnhausen's books on amazon.ca cost over CDN$100: we were hoping someone here was knowledgeable. and would chime in.
    Life Member NRA.
    Member: RWVA.http://www.appleseedinfo.org/smf/
    Member: WRSA http://westernrifleshooters.blogspot.com/
    Founder: Guns of the Golden West (Show group).
    Founder: Nosehills Gun Club.
    Founder: IPSC in Alberta.
    Retired from Instructing, and just about everything else!

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub danthman114's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Yuma, AZ
    Posts
    66
    theres a guy on yuotube that gos into detail on timing but I cant remember his name. I think hes a member here as well...

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Southwest MO.
    Posts
    1,694
    SA revolvers are pretty simple. I don't know the proper names of everything but there's a piece that rides on your hammer that holds the bolt down until it's nearly at full cock. If the little ear is broke off or damaged the bolt will drop before it's time. When the gun is in half cock the bolt ( cylinder stop ) should be held down letting the cylinder rotate in one direction as far as you want. As you bring the hammer back further the bolt drops and falls into the bolt stop ( cylinder slot ) when it gets to the right spot.

    Have you took the gun apart yet?
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy

    HABCAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    East Central Alberta, Kanada
    Posts
    892
    No, we haven't, but you have given us an idea what to look for. TYVM!! Will report.
    Life Member NRA.
    Member: RWVA.http://www.appleseedinfo.org/smf/
    Member: WRSA http://westernrifleshooters.blogspot.com/
    Founder: Guns of the Golden West (Show group).
    Founder: Nosehills Gun Club.
    Founder: IPSC in Alberta.
    Retired from Instructing, and just about everything else!

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    189
    The cylinder locking bolt is falling (3rd click) at the same time as the hammer is engaging in the half-cock notch (second click).

    The Half cock position should still keep the bolt retracted so the cylinder spins freely so the loading sequence can be done easily.
    Then as you pull further from there,,that 3rd click is the bolt then dropping to engage the cylinder as it rotates towards complete turn. 4th click is full cock.

    Either the arm of the cylinder bolt that engages the hammer cam is damaged,, allowing it to drop too early.
    Or the tiny cam insert on the hammer itself is damaged and that is allowing the bolt to drop early.
    ..or a combination of both.

    I'd also carefully inspect the trigger tip for damage as well as the hammer notches. The hand can take very little abuse in the Colts. The ratchet system and timing, bolt ect are simple but they don't just fall together like a modern day tupperware gun.
    Many parts are fairly fragile in the SAA and any TV action Western gun play activity can cause damage to them.
    Guns used for Fast Draw competition usually have specially tuned actions, undertimed to take the extreme speed in account as well as alloy cylinders, extra thick bolts and reinforced lockup points, ect.

    There's nothing inside there as far as any built in adjustment that can be made. Damaged parts have to be replaced and fitted to existing. It's not something to do over the intronet,,at least I can't

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    117
    2152hq is right. More than likely the bolt arm "shaved" some of the hammer cam off. The springs in these actions are usually quite over tensioned and "fanning" them really causes a wreck. A competition gun (a successful one) is purpose built or tuned for the kind of treatment it's going to see. A stock S.A. is, in many instances, just barely capable of being a steady plinker!

    Be careful what you watch on YouTube. There's one guy in particular that shows you exactly how NOT to tune a S.A. At least he warns you to get lots of extra parts! Lol!!!

    The best (in my opinion) instructional book is the one already mentioned by Jerry Kuhnhausen on the S.A.A. Colt.

    Good luck.
    Mike

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Char-Gar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Deep South Texas
    Posts
    11,837
    Yep take it apart and look for damage. Fanning is the quickest way to screw up a SA that I know of. It could be the hammer, the hand or the spring. Once you find the damage, replace the part. This design is simple and has allot of tolerance, most parts are drop in.

    Hint: Don't loan or even let anybody shoot your firearms. Tell them to go buy their own. Fools abound!
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check