RepackboxWidenersInline FabricationRotoMetals2
Titan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters SupplyLee PrecisionGraf & Sons

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 51 of 51

Thread: How to cut THICK lead plates?

  1. #41
    Counter rotting blade saw like this

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
    georgerkahn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    South of the (Canada) border
    For what its worth, I had a similar paradigm, and using a Tiger Saw (Rockwell version of Sawzall) the blade I was using kept on getting coated with the lead, so it only worked for a short order before it stopped cutting. Only store open with blades was a Harbor Freight, and I picked up a package of their Tree Trim blades -- and not only did they work superbly, but seemed to not get dull. Working also in a Ryobi 18V sawzall clone, they functioned as well in this tool. Blades were hanging on wall peg-board, are listed as "9 in. 4-5 TPI Reciprocating Saw Pruning Blades", and come in a pack of five for a penny less than nine dollars.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master
    white eagle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    565.5 miles E.of Wall Drug
    circular saw would do it
    I use my miter saw to cut isotope cores
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  4. #44
    Boolit Grand Master

    mold maker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Piedmont (Conover) NC
    Depending on thickness, most any course slower cutting saw will do. Be sure to use a drop cloth to contain and collect the chips.
    Information not shared. is wasted.

  5. #45
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Issaquah Wa.
    Axe will make short work of it.

  6. #46
    Boolit Master
    barrabruce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Far Nth Qld Australia
    I used a big cold chisel and hammer to cut through some boat ballast when the neighbour wouldn’t borrow me his chainsaw for the job.

    A lot easier thanI thought it would be

  7. #47
    I have good luck cutting thick lead with a single bit axe & 3 pound hammer. Just use the axe blade as a chisel.

  8. #48
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2005
    +1 on the axe.

    I cut up several 1" thick plates with an old single bit axe and a 5-pound hammer. Used the axe like a splitting maul, using the hammer to pound the axe. It didn't leave all the those lead slivers like a saw will do.

  9. #49
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    The original poster has not been on in several months. I hope he was able to score a good bit of this lead. Was looking forward to hearing about it or seeing some pictures.

  10. #50
    I used an axe to cut the end off a 100# Bunker Hill lead ingot once....long ago... never again! That was a lotta work! I still have the brick after 40yrs and have not tried to cut a slice off it again. Nice pure lead too, straight from the smelter. I may try the sawzall thing.

  11. #51
    Boolit Buddy Sig556r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    West of H-Town
    make sure you get lead grains not lead (fine) dust when you saw them, i.e., large-toothed saw.

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check