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Thread: Large Rifle vs Magnum Rifle Primers

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Tom W.'s Avatar
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    To the uninitiated it seems like some powders are so slow that one could expect a hangfire, and the others so fast that........
    Tom
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    Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?

  2. #22
    Boolit Master


    David2011's Avatar
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    Asking because I really don't know. Is there any risk of dislodging the bullet in a rifle cartridge with too much primer as can be done in pistol cartridges? I've never messed with very light rifle loads.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    The hunting load uses a compressed charge of 760 and the CCI-250 with #375296 to keep plastic deformation from destroying the accuracy.

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    I keep threatening to work up a heavy boolit paper patched load for it with black but just never have done it.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I use WW primers for any load using a double-base powders, especially ball or spherical powders. That layer of graphite that makes those powders flow so nicely in a powder measure needs to be burned off. IMR single-base powders work with milder CCI primers. The difference shows up in shot grouping, and magnum primers didn't provide any velocity increase over WWLR primers in my 338WM, but the groups opened significantly. On the other hand, I experienced a hangload with CCI small rifle primers reloading Buffalo Bore cases with a double base spherical powder. When I pulled the bullet, the unburned powder poured out, but there was a chunk of charcoal about the size of my little finger tip that tapped out of the bottom of the case. I'd recommend either WW or Federal primes whose number ends with a 5 for any double-base powder. The new Western Powders reloading manual lists WW primers for most of their powders.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    I’m shooting a Marlin I bought in the 80’s. It has iron sights with a peep hole I had installed at the back. It was my primary protection against bears in the deep Alaskan bush. The sights worked great for quickly acquiring a target, but has a lot the be desired for accuracy shooting, which is where I am now. Thinking of improving the sights, but don’t necessarily want to scope it.

    I noticed not all of the powder burning and a friend told me to try magnum primers. I just don’t want to go too far and over pressure it. Maybe it’s not a big deal.

    I’m thinking about a faster powde might do the trick too.
    I am with you on the scope thing. I certainly am not being snobbish about scoping a lever gun for those whose eyesight demands one, but they kinda look like mud flaps on a Corvette. I have the same rifle and put a Skinner receiver peep sight on mine and it shoots 1 1/2" @ 100 yds which is plenty for me, beings primarily a woods hunter and having 70 yr old eyes. That Skinner brass sight looks good and has replaceable peeps so you can pick the one to suit you, but I strongly advise calling or emailing them for advice on which one for your needs.. As far as trying a faster powder,my rifle really likes Accurate 2015 with a 405 GC (1600fps from 26" barrel) mold from Accurate Molds, a vendor on this site. IMR 4759 was THE powder that the rifle absolutely loved but it has been discontinued in favor of 5744, but being a notoriously cheap son of a gun, I refuse to pay $40 for a lb of powder!
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check