RotoMetals2WidenersRepackboxTitan Reloading
Lee PrecisionInline FabricationGraf & SonsMidSouth Shooters Supply

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 29 of 29

Thread: Dial Caliper Service Companies

  1. #21
    Vendor Sponsor

    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ojai CA
    Posts
    7,319
    Quote Originally Posted by Walks View Post
    I tried to get through the B&S website to see about getting my B&S calipers recalibrated, no response. looked up the Phone#, called and was told they no longer do repair work, just buy a new set.
    So much for good business practices.
    Try RIS Enterprises in Oxnard. He also has a lab in Chatsworth. He just did several of my inspection tools and did a great job and was reasonable. Nice older guy, hard to understand (from India) but is super sharp.

    805-981-7902 info@risenterprises.com

    If you're in the northern part of LA it would be a short trip to see him in Chatsworth.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    3,818
    I think you are going to find there are few to no repair parts available for older calipers. I have an older Starrett set that are now only fit for a straight edge since no one will repair them.
    I live near a metro area of over a million people. We had to have our own metrology lab. The nearest repair shop was 165 miles away.
    EDG

  3. #23
    Vendor Sponsor

    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ojai CA
    Posts
    7,319
    The B&SD calipers were essentially Cheaper made versions of the Swiss Tesa Calipers. The main difference was the B&S models had plastic pinion gears that were easily ruined.

    Then B&S bought Tesa and all of them were made cheap. I got lucky and bought my Tesa caliper used and they were made a few years before the Swiss sold out. I still use them everyday and they will last a lifetime if taken car of.

    That said, just about any brand of dial calipers will last a long time if taken care of. Keeping dirt out and keeping them in thier cse when not in use is the key.

    As far a s calibration goes you can do this yourself by simply Cleaning the faces of the calipers with your fingers and closing them, then adjust the dial to zero. Then if you have a known standard you can check them at 2-6 " and see if they are still there.

    This is more than accurate enough for any reloading purpose.

    I can use calipers to +/-.001-2. I have been doing it for 40+ years.

    Most probably can't, and so thinking you can accurately measure to .0005 or less with dial calipers is fiction.

    That's what micrometers are for.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    430
    GONRA is being unusually snotty - but sez to go to Harbor Freight and get a new ELECTRONIC caliper.
    (Save the olde one for nostalgia. Use a MICROMETER for diameters.)

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Central VA
    Posts
    2,544
    Quote Originally Posted by GONRA View Post
    GONRA is being unusually snotty - but sez to go to Harbor Freight and get a new ELECTRONIC caliper.
    (Save the olde one for nostalgia. Use a MICROMETER for diameters.)
    GONRA, in this case I think it’s realistic rather than snotty, buuuttt, I’d still go for even cheap dial calipers over the electronics... seems like my last (odd sizes) battery always goes dead when I’m planning to do a bunch of measurements.

    I’ve never had a battery go dead on a dial caliper! I figure with my old well used Mitotuyo dial calipers (6”) and 1” ‘tuyo mics by the lathe, I’m good for most necessary measurements, then the 1”-5” Starrett mics can come out of the Gerstner and take over if needed.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    9,625
    For just the bezel repair you might check with a local jeweler. He might handle it quickly and reasonably.

    In reality accuracy is much more today than it was years ago. For years a caliper or mike that measured to the shops standards was accurate. Now it needs to measure to standards set to the national set or a world set. ISO has it so 1" is now 1" anywhere. No its not needed for reloading but that's the standards now in manufacturing so a part that's made in mexico fits an part made in korea Italy or the USA. International standards have raised the bar. Now part of the paper work with pin gages and gage blocks is the lineage to what standards they were made to.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    187
    veneer calipers are fine for what they are, get a good micrometer and standard and never look back

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
    Posts
    478
    Veneer calipers are fine for measuring veneer and other wood working projects, but vernier calipers(if you can find good ones) are better for most reloading measurements. Dial or electronic calipers are quicker to read than vernier calipers. Where tenths accuracy is required, use micrometers; but they are not the correct instrument for checking overall length of brass or cartridges.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    california
    Posts
    638
    The last set of Mitutoyos I purchased were out by several thou at 3 - 4 inches. Called Mitutoyo repair service and they wanted new price to repair them. I will no longer buy their products. Starrett's quality used to be good, but some of the last items I bought from them (several years ago) seem to have lost their quality control. I still use my Starrett's that I purchased more than 40 years ago, though I have had to have them repaired several times from being dropped.

    I like Brown and Sharpe, but haven't purchased anything new for many years.

    As has been said before, quality doesn't seem to be what it once was. Tool and die industry has sadly gone away in many parts of the country, especially in California, and much of it has to do with government regulation in industry. A lot of it is also due to youngsters not willing to put in the time to truly learn the trade. If you can't push a button, then they are not interested.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check