Load Data

[dsh1106]

GP

I have the Lyman#1 #2 #4 #5 and one from Precision reloading, I can scan and send you anything you want. I also have the Ideal hand books that have shoshell data up to 1969ish when the Lyman #1 came out.

PM me if you what me to dig out some info.

[Hogtamer]

Oh yeah, if you're using used hulls you'll need to open them fully with a tapered rod of some sort, twisting back and forth to soften. I use an old salt water tapered stopper that works. Those components have to go in straight.

[gpidaho]

GP

I have the Lyman#1 #2 #4 #5 and one from Precision reloading, I can scan and send you anything you want. I also have the Ideal hand books that have shoshell data up to 1969ish when the Lyman #1 came out.

PM me if you what me to dig out some info.

Thanks Scott. I could use a start point for 12, 20 and 410 loads using nitro, felt and fiber wads. Shot loads but especially any round ball or slug loads. On another note. That C&H loader was relisted after time expired on ebay. I put in an offer of $25 and the gal countered with a $30 request. I bought it. I'll let you know if it's anymore than a junk novelty for my collection. Talk with you later. Gp

[gpidaho]

Oh yeah, if you're using used hulls you'll need to open them fully with a tapered rod of some sort, twisting back and forth to soften. I use an old salt water tapered stopper that works. Those components have to go in straight.

I have both a spin doctor and a large hand held hull crimp opener, just a one inch rod seven inches long that a taper starts at four inches and goes to zero in the last three inches. Gp

[megasupermagnum]

I never had any problem getting nitro cards in by pushing them in sideways, then straitening them as I seat them. Fiber wads go through my wad finger same as plastic wads.

[Rattlesnake Charlie]

This is all I could find.
Attachment 227436

[gpidaho]

Thanks Charlie. Looks like I'm pretty much either going to have to wing it or rethink whether it's worth while at all. Gp

[megasupermagnum]

If you have a chronograph, you don't really have to wing it. Loading a regular 1 1/8 oz load should be easy, you probably have to add a tiny bit more powder than with a plastic wad, but not a big deal.

[gpidaho]

If you have a chronograph, you don't really have to wing it. Loading a regular 1 1/8 oz load should be easy, you probably have to add a tiny bit more powder than with a plastic wad, but not a big deal.

MSM Yes I do have a chronograph. It's a CED Millennium Also I just picked up a LabRadar. The LabRadar will track slugs and round ball but the manual says that it doesn't work with shot. I've been able to shoot the Support posts on the sky screens a few times with autoloading handguns so I should be able to do serious damage with a shotgun. LOL Gp

[GhostHawk]

ROFLMAO!!!!!

Yeah, I agree, serious damage indeed.

[bikerbeans]

MSM Yes I do have a chronograph. It's a CED Millennium Also I just picked up a LabRadar. The LabRadar will track slugs and round ball but the manual says that it doesn't work with shot. I've been able to shoot the Support posts on the sky screens a few times with autoloading handguns so I should be able to do serious damage with a shotgun. LOL Gp

If you shoot a chrony hit it in the boiler room. Dem varmites are hard to track.

BB

[Rattlesnake Charlie]

The Lyman manual I posted a page of has numerous loads using a plastic gas seal, Remington M-wad or Alcan Air-Wedge, then card/fiber wads. Some include a shotcup. The BPI buckshot manual has several loads using only a gas seal.

[gpidaho]

Thanks again Charlie. I have Lyman #1 shotshell handbook and the BPI buckshot manual should arrive in todays mail. I see on ebay that someone has offered 800 Alcan .165 nitro cards and no bids @ $4. The kicker, as always is the $15 shipping. I'm just going to start low on the powder and build something simple to start. With my heavy single shot barrel I doubt I'll get in too much trouble. Most likely just burn poorly and dirty. A lot of the 410 loads listed in the manuals have very little in the way of a cushion and so they should work well with a card and fiber wad I'll try a few of those in my Rossi single shot. Thanks to all for the suggestions. Gp

[megasupermagnum]

I use a ProChrono Digital, it works fantastic with shotguns. The best thing is to shoot close, maybe 3'-4', and on a cloudy day don't use the sky screens at all. There is always a chance a wad smacks it, but I haven't had it happen yet. I did finally end up shooting mine. With a gun I had no idea where it shot, I aimed a little too low, and smacked the top half pretty hard. From now on, I'll make sure I'm a good 12"-16" above the top, and it still reads good there.

[gpidaho]

I use a ProChrono Digital, it works fantastic with shotguns. The best thing is to shoot close, maybe 3'-4', and on a cloudy day don't use the sky screens at all. There is always a chance a wad smacks it, but I haven't had it happen yet. I did finally end up shooting mine. With a gun I had no idea where it shot, I aimed a little too low, and smacked the top half pretty hard. From now on, I'll make sure I'm a good 12"-16" above the top, and it still reads good there.

With the CED chrono all the important parts are back on the bench and out of the way. Sky screens and sensors are down range and can be bought as replacements. The all in one chronographs wouldn't stand a chance with me, especially with a shotgun. So far I've only shot the support legs that hold the shade screens above. these are pretty easy to make up yourself. Good thing because they aren't hard to hit. Gp

[longbow]

I tried using card wads for slug loads a couple of years ago. Not real successful!

I had a bunch of shotcups I'd cut gas seal off and bags of nitro card wads so thought I'd try some wad slugs using the shotcups on a card wad column. I put two 12 ga. nitro card wads over the powder then a 1/2" hard card wad then slug in shotcup.

The gas leakage was so bad the shotcups were melted and torn from blow by! I am thinking the old card wad loads used considerably more powder to make up for leakage but without pressure testing equipment you'd be hard pressed to reproduce safe loads. You can simply accept the leakage and lower pressure which will certainly be safe but likely significantly lower velocity too.

I was using Blue Dot so slow powder and the effect may not be as bad with faster powder under shot loads. It won't hurt to try and you won't have plastic shotcups to melt so at worst you'll get lower pressure less efficient loads but they should shoot okay.

Longbow

[MOA]

Gp, went through my library and have a older copy of a Hodgdon 4th printing of Basic Loading Data. I'll scan and send you a PM with the file. Most of the powders are obsolete, but the wad column information is helpful I think.

[OnHoPr]

Reloading for Shotgunners, 5th edition Rick Sapp has quite a quite a bit of load data. Many forms of wads components.

@ Hogtamer , if you happen to catch your eye on a Jart from that old lawn game like horseshoes, but were lawn darts tossed at rings about the same distance, put in a drill they work reasonably well for reforming case mouths.

[Hogtamer]

My Acme hull conditioner in living color:Attachment 227943

[longbow]

Hal:

Do you just push that taper stopper into the hull or spin it as in spin with a drill?

I found I was splitting hulls at crimp folds if I just pushed a tapered plug in. I use a homemade spin doctor now and it doesn't work badly.

Mostly I am trimming most of the old fold crimp off before roll crimping and that works too but I'd rather leave the hulls long. I should be ordering some new skived hulls and that would solve the problem. I have so many old hulls though I have trouble ordering more until they are really ratty. Bad attitude I know!

I do like your colourful hull conditioner.

Longbow