So, do you have a PP you want to get rid of now???
So, do you have a PP you want to get rid of now???
The tip about crystal cat litter shows up periodically. After reading one of those tips several years ago, I went to one of the local chain pet stores to try to find some. I found a 15 lb bucket on the shelf priced about $15(I think! It was more than a week ago). On the shelf above there were 8 lb bags for $12(again I think!). I asked if the $15 price was correct. They told me that corporate had discontinued the buckets and to sell them at a discount. I took it home and still have about half.
Since I have a fairly large "safe", I take a quart paint can from the auto supply, punch holes with a Greenlee punch and line the can with screen wire. Fill the can with the crystals and set it in the safe, which also has a GoldenRod. After abut 3-4 months I empty the can and refill it with crystals or take it in the house and put it in the oven at ≈200º for a few hours. This rejuvenates(drys out) the crystals.
I admit that the "holey sock" is simpler.
John
W.TN
Richard, what Lemi Shine product did you use? They make about a dozen different ones, all under the "Lemi Shine" label.
The strongest reason for the people to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against the tyranny of government.
-- Thomas Jefferson
I use citric acid. It is cheaper than Lemi-shine. About $10 for two pounds on Amazon. Lasts a long time at a teaspoon full at a time. (I use with Armorall wash and wax premium. About a teaspoon full of that, too.)
I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
Do you trust your casting thermometer?
A few musings.
Before you go to the expense of re-bluing, I would suggest you first try Brownells Oxpho-Blue Cream to restore the bluing. I think you will be surprised at the result. It will give you a deep blue/black finish. Just clean the metal and I like using a toothbrush to rub it in, plus the brush will get into all the recesses. Once the desired color is reached wipe it down then apply a heavy coating of grease or gear lube over the bluing and let sit overnight as the color will deepen.Then wipe off the grease. Here are some examples of Oxpho used on completely bare steel.
My parents dog slobbered on my car and it ate through the clear coat. It looked horrible!
We have to keep in mind that bluing is nothing more than ornamental rust/oxidation.
Sorry the bath caused the metal to lose it’s bluing. Let us know what you end up doing and make sure it’s well oiled to prevent rust.
Brownells has a lot of products to say the least and I have tried many of the bluing products over my many years, but for cold bluing the only one I have found that rivals a tank job is the Oxpho. You want the cream and not the Oxpho liquid. Liquids are fair for a small touch up, but for any area they tend to streak. Good luck with your project.
I put my colt mustang in my ultrasonic with hornafy gun parts cleaner. It took the clear coat off the aluminum frame. Sent it back to colt. They refinished it for free. Took 5 months though.
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For cleaning my handguns and other parts in my ultrasonic cleaner I use a degreaser like "Simple Green" mixed with hot water. Of course this removes all the lubrication also. So a dip into my Ed's Red mix gets everything lubricated and protected. With this method I can thoroughly clean a lot of handguns in short order.
I reserve the citric acid, vinegar or aggressive cleaners for cases or parts than need it or for my pin tumbler.
Lemi Shine is citric acid as stated above.
Years ago I had the laboratory where I worked in a large food processing/manufacturing plant analyze Lemi Shine. It came back as 95% or greater citric acid. When the package/labeling changed an email to Lemi Shine confirmed the product was the same and just the labeling had changed to what is pictured above.
Besides cleaning brass I use it to remove hard water deposits from dishwashers which it works well on also.
Just FYI
GD
#2 member of the 10%ers
Lemishine will also do a good job at removing logos from some souvenir mugs whether you like it or not!
So it should clean hard water crusties from coffee makers then.
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There are a lot of uses for citric acid, so instead of paying $4+ for 12 ounces, not counting the time and expense of going to get it, why not do as I do and buy food grade pure Citric Acid delivered to my door from Amazon for $13.49 for 5 Pounds!
very interesting thread. I tried an ultrasonic with lemishine for brass cleaning- it works but I went back to walnut/corncob. Tomorrow will get rid of the lemishine so I don't accidentally decide to clean anything else. This thread explains a very mottled AR bolt that I have- it came out clean but very ugly.
Loren
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |