Inline FabricationTitan ReloadingLee PrecisionLoad Data
RotoMetals2WidenersReloading EverythingRepackbox
MidSouth Shooters Supply
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 23 of 23

Thread: Need help with a stock

  1. #21
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

    waksupi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Somers, Montana, a quaint little drinking village,with a severe hunting and fishing problem.
    Posts
    19,340
    Quote Originally Posted by redhawk0 View Post
    If that wood hasn't been dried from the start you'll likely have other problems. Shrinkage, and cracking...etc. If the wood has been kiln dried to a moisture content less than 4-6% then you could have environmental factors (or possibly a bad bottle of tru-oil...but unlikely) A dried piece of wood should soak it in FAST for the first coat and possibly the second coat as well. After that you are layering the finish which is going to emulsify the previous layer to provide a strong bond of each coat of finish applied. For those first two coats (at least) apply the finish to the entire piece...all carved sections and the through bolt hole (if it has one). You want to completely seal the wood.

    Environmental factors include high humidity areas or cooler (cold) temperatures. These will cause a finish to cure very very slowly. Days in fact. If you can move the piece to a warmer area that has been air conditioned it would cure better.

    As for using any steel wool on it...I'd advise against it. Steel wool, no matter how hard you try to tack it off, will leave tiny pieces embedded in the wood. These pieces will eventually rust. A better option is a scotch-bright pad to apply stripper or to scratch the piece before applying the next coat of finish.

    redhawk
    If the finish is completely cured, you will leave no steel wool particles in the finish. I finished a lot of very expensive exhibition grade stocks with steel wool where such a blemish would be disaster. Never a problem.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  2. #22
    Boolit Master kywoodwrkr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Hodgenville, KY-Lincolns Birthplace
    Posts
    980
    You seem to not know true moisture content.
    Look about you for someone who might possibly have a wood moisture meter and measure true content.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    North East, USA
    Posts
    1,419
    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    If the finish is completely cured, you will leave no steel wool particles in the finish. I finished a lot of very expensive exhibition grade stocks with steel wool where such a blemish would be disaster. Never a problem.
    I was referring more to the stripping process of taking it back to bare wood. If there is finish already applied, then no...the steel wool particles can't get through to the grain. But...I still like scotch brite pads for most of my work. The pads come in different colors to designate different "grit" of the pad.

    ScotchBrite to Steel wool conversions….Burgundy = #0… Green = #00… Grey = #000 and White = #0000....

    Sorry...I guess I didn't make that very clear about finished vs. unfinished wood.

    redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check