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Thread: Need help with a stock

  1. #21
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


    waksupi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redhawk0 View Post
    If that wood hasn't been dried from the start you'll likely have other problems. Shrinkage, and cracking...etc. If the wood has been kiln dried to a moisture content less than 4-6% then you could have environmental factors (or possibly a bad bottle of tru-oil...but unlikely) A dried piece of wood should soak it in FAST for the first coat and possibly the second coat as well. After that you are layering the finish which is going to emulsify the previous layer to provide a strong bond of each coat of finish applied. For those first two coats (at least) apply the finish to the entire piece...all carved sections and the through bolt hole (if it has one). You want to completely seal the wood.

    Environmental factors include high humidity areas or cooler (cold) temperatures. These will cause a finish to cure very very slowly. Days in fact. If you can move the piece to a warmer area that has been air conditioned it would cure better.

    As for using any steel wool on it...I'd advise against it. Steel wool, no matter how hard you try to tack it off, will leave tiny pieces embedded in the wood. These pieces will eventually rust. A better option is a scotch-bright pad to apply stripper or to scratch the piece before applying the next coat of finish.

    redhawk
    If the finish is completely cured, you will leave no steel wool particles in the finish. I finished a lot of very expensive exhibition grade stocks with steel wool where such a blemish would be disaster. Never a problem.
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  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    You seem to not know true moisture content.
    Look about you for someone who might possibly have a wood moisture meter and measure true content.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    If the finish is completely cured, you will leave no steel wool particles in the finish. I finished a lot of very expensive exhibition grade stocks with steel wool where such a blemish would be disaster. Never a problem.
    I was referring more to the stripping process of taking it back to bare wood. If there is finish already applied, then no...the steel wool particles can't get through to the grain. But...I still like scotch brite pads for most of my work. The pads come in different colors to designate different "grit" of the pad.

    ScotchBrite to Steel wool conversions….Burgundy = #0… Green = #00… Grey = #000 and White = #0000....

    Sorry...I guess I didn't make that very clear about finished vs. unfinished wood.

    redhawk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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