Titan ReloadingRotoMetals2RepackboxInline Fabrication
Lee PrecisionLoad DataReloading EverythingSnyders Jerky
Wideners MidSouth Shooters Supply
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 31

Thread: S&W model 1903 hand ejector

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    760

    S&W model 1903 hand ejector

    I'm going to buy one for a shooter and am very unfamiliar with the things to look for. Obvious things such as hammer push off and cylinder lockup i get. I know there are guys out here that shoot and collect old smiths, so any knowlege is much appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    over the hill, out in the woods and far away
    Posts
    10,170
    The ENEMY is listening.
    HE wants to know what YOU know.
    Keep it to yourself.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    760
    Thank you very much. That helps.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    292
    Go to the Smith and Wesson forum and they will tell you more than you ever wanted to hear.

    If you want a weapon to use rather than look at I would give priority to a tight lockup and a crane that isn't buggered by wannabe movie gangsters snapping the cylinder shut with a flip of the wrist. Evidence of such treatment is a hairline gap between the crane and the frame.

    One finds refinished shooter S&Ws ranging from nice to not nice. A good indicator of a refinish is a blued hammer and trigger.

    I have S&Ws older than I am which I have never detailed stripped and they work just fine. In fact, they work better than I do. But if you are a compulsive taker-apart of things and share my lack of gunsmithing skills, the Kuhnhausen shop manual is an excellent guide to Smith and Wesson innards.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    760
    This was what i was looking for thanks very much.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Near Austin
    Posts
    1,498
    There’s a small herd of the little Hand Ejectors in residence with me. None are collector grade, all shoot just fine. They are a hoot!

    Keep in mind the early ones before the 1920s or so did not have hardened cylinders. Those need to be treated easily. They’ll do a job on a target but keep the pressures low and cycle them politely. After the 1920s pretty much all the Smiths had hardened cylinders. They can have a more robust diet.

    Also most of the early ones have been fired with black powder ammunition and lots didn’t get a proper bath afterward. So its common to see a rough barrel. Good news is, that really doesn’t matter. I’ve got a few that have absolutely ugly barrels and still put boolits on the target where they should go.

    Yep go find one, take it home, feed it, pet it a little and you’ll find it’s a friend for life.
    "Time and money don't do you a bit of good until you spend them." - My Dad

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    760
    Thanks for the tip. Didnt know about the heat treated cylinders.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    The deep south,... of Vermont!
    Posts
    4,922
    I'm assuming its in .32 Long? If so, I can highly recommend the RCBS 98 grain SWC. it shoots very well and right to the sights in both of mine. Cylinder throats seems to run around .314" on all that I have measured.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    760
    Good to know. I keep hearing that the rcbs mold is a good one for it. Thanks .

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Near Austin
    Posts
    1,498
    Oh, another thing, you’ll want to buy a magnifying glass to see the sights. The rear sights are hardly more than a scratch in the top strap and the front sights come to an edge finer than most people’s pocket knives.

    Other than that, they are wonderful little revolvers. They can be surprisingly accurate.

    Another good wadcutter is Accurate 31-088W. I recently added that one to the pile for my snubby 30-1, but it’s good in the HEs too. I also favor Bullseye. It meters good in my Lyman 55 with those petit charges and it’s high nitroglycerin content gives consistent ignition no matter how the charge lies in the case.

    It’s fairly common to find the nickel ones with real pear grips. They’re tiny, but do feel like fine jewelry. I’ve got a couple any throughly enjoy them, looking at them, rubbing them, shooting them, great feeling and a connection to the bygone days before polymers.
    "Time and money don't do you a bit of good until you spend them." - My Dad

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    760
    Yeah, bullseye was my plan as far as powder goes. The revolver i have in mind is a round butt early model, so soft shooting loads with a heavy bullet sounds like my best option.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    760
    Well, I put my s&w HE on layaway today. Thanks to all for the tips. From what i can tell, it was made in 1905. The thing has almost no blue left, but the function is almost flawless. Cant wait to pick it up in a week or so.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    over the hill, out in the woods and far away
    Posts
    10,170
    That would have a non-heat-treated cylinder. I would not exceed 2.2-2.3 grains of Bullseye with the RCBS 98 SWC or similar.
    The ENEMY is listening.
    HE wants to know what YOU know.
    Keep it to yourself.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    760
    Quote Originally Posted by Outpost75 View Post
    That would have a non-heat-treated cylinder. I would not exceed 2.2-2.3 grains of Bullseye with the RCBS 98 SWC or similar.
    Im pretty sure as long as 2.0 of bullseye gets the boolit out of the barrel, thats about as far as im going to push it. My 38 special load for all my guns is only 2.8gr with a 158gr boolit. Pretty darn accurate too. Thanks again for all of your help and guidance.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    JoeJames's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Arkansas Delta
    Posts
    1,468
    It took me awhile to come up with the right load for the fixed sights. Mine is the Model 1903 HE fifth version made around 1914. I used 98 grain swaged semi-wadcutters for my boolits. 15 yards. Just mostly to verify that the 2 grain bullseye load under a 98 grain lead swc = 650 fps average is to point of aim with the fixed sights. On an earlier paper target off a rest it appeared to be in there, but wanted to try it in a less than formal setting with a bottom side facing 4" cashew nut can as the target, trying to approximate field conditions. Note the vertical string which I ascribe to the tiny sights on it. The two larger holes = two rounds apiece.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	32 Handejector 2 grains bullseye.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	63.0 KB 
ID:	227296

  16. #16
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SE Ohio
    Posts
    2,361
    I have several 32 pistol molds. I shoot the 98gr RCBS in S&W 32 & 32/20 revolvers and in my old
    lever action Wins & Marlins. I have tried lighter bullets but don't get the accuracy of the 98. I have
    a old Ideal 115g that doesn't do bad but the 98g has worked better for me?

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    over the hill, out in the woods and far away
    Posts
    10,170
    Quote Originally Posted by psweigle View Post
    Im pretty sure as long as 2.0 of bullseye gets the boolit out of the barrel, thats about as far as im going to push it. My 38 special load for all my guns is only 2.8gr with a 158gr boolit. Pretty darn accurate too. Thanks again for all of your help and guidance.
    2 grains of Bullseye is a close approximation of factory loads. According to Hatcher's Textbook of Pistols and Revolvers (1935) on p. 340 he lists 2 grains of Bullseye with the 100-grain flatnosed bullet in the .32 Colt New Police for 730 fps at 8500 psi. for 120 ft.-lbs.
    The ENEMY is listening.
    HE wants to know what YOU know.
    Keep it to yourself.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    760
    Thats plenty strong for knocking over cans or putting holes in paper. Im actually looking into cutting nagant revolver brass down, and using that for making snake shot loads.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
    JoeJames's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Arkansas Delta
    Posts
    1,468
    Quote Originally Posted by psweigle View Post
    Thats plenty strong for knocking over cans or putting holes in paper. Im actually looking into cutting nagant revolver brass down, and using that for making snake shot loads.
    That is plumb cool. The 32 S&W HE is mighty easy to carry. Publish your results please?

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Cntrl Fla.
    Posts
    167
    I acquired one in a convoluted trade several months past...........round butt, blue, 4 plus inch bbl, perhaps 70% of the original finish remaining. Bore quite usable, but shows bp lesions in a spot of two. Serial # indicates it was made in about '19. When I first saw the gun the cylinder was so gunked up with dried grease that it would not turn, a light app of break free took care of that.............Locks up as tight as one could want but I gotta go with the magnifying glass for the sights.....still it shoots quite well. It's for sure no registered magnum, but it exudes the quality of S&W products from it's era and from appearances hasn't had a screwdriver applied since it was assembled.

    I got 40 plus rounds of mixed longs and shorts with the gun and as I happen to have a set of dies I promptly burned up all that factory stuff and began to play with some loads. The longs shoot quite well using Lee's 100 gr. lubed with alox.......loaded as cast...mikes about .310/.312. Lube is Lee's roll 'em in it. The shorts presented a somewhat more difficult issue as I have no bullet immediately available that runs as light as Lymans CBHB recommends.........I grabbed a handful of .311 Lee rb's and rolled 'em in that alox mix.....great plinking or snake round if you are adroit enough
    to not drop those short little boogers!

    Load for both rounds used Unique.........3.0 for the longs and dropped a grain for the RB shorts.........I did add a drop of alox on top of that RB. Seating for the latter is just below the ctg. mouth and I very slightly crimped both cartridges.

    Out of my gun.......after supercarefully eyeballing that minuscule sight,, is easily minute of tin can to about 15 yards....with either load...........just fooling around in the woods behind the house I had no problem hitting the random leaf or stray stick. That little gun is quite likely to find itself living in my hunting jackets side pocket this fall.
    Last edited by dogrunner; 09-18-2018 at 03:47 PM.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check