Rock Chucker Primer Chute

[Mal Paso]

I hate the Rock Chucker used primer handling. I had an elegant copper chute on the last one but the copper I bought this time was Utility grade and I wound up using 3/8" copper fittings to finish it. There is a bottle under the bench to catch the primers. Also there is a tube under the shell adapter to prevent primers from coming out the front slot. McDonalds straw is reported to work. About $10 in parts.

[Stephen Cohen]

That is cleaver and I will be making one for my Rock Chucker, thanks for posting. Regards Stephen

[1066]

I can't understand why, with all their years of experience, RCBS does such a poor job in the primer catching department. I designed and 3D printed one for my RC IV Supreme press that works perfectly.

[redhawk0]

Nice...

I use the MCDonald's straw. I have an angled cut on the bottom of it (its about 3" long and slides inside the slot. This keeps the primers from bouncing off the bottom due to the ejection force from the deprimer pin. I don't use any other device and just empty my primer cup when I get through 50-100 deprimes.

redhawk

[Mal Paso]

[QUOTE=1066;4452684]I can't understand why, with all their years of experience, RCBS does such a poor job in the primer catching department. I designed and 3D printed one for my RC IV Supreme press that works perfectly.

Very Cool! Have you sold any or is it too expensive time and materials to produce that way?

My old chute was refrigeration tube which has a heavy wall compared to the "Utility" grade I bought by mistake. Didn't know there was such a thing. Not enough thickness to work with flaring and annealing.

[Livin_cincy]

[QUOTE=Mal Paso;4453104]

My old chute was refrigeration tube which has a heavy wall compared to the "Utility" grade I bought by mistake. Didn't know there was such a thing. Not enough thickness to work with flaring and annealing.

There is Refrigerant & Water pressure Copper tubing. I forget which is which but I believe it is Type L & Type M. Most commercial work is done with the heavier stuff for both uses. The Softer stuff is used more in residential and remodeling.

[Taterhead]

Very cool idea. The 3d printed solution is awesome too.

I don't have issues so much with the black plastic catch thimgamabob. My main problem is the primers bouncing out the front or the ram in the notch made for the priming arm. I have that issue once in a while with the the Redding Ultramag too. The McDs straw idea seems like a great idea that would work for both. I don't prime on either of those presses (or very rarely), so losing priming is no bother.

[jmorris]

I have a couple of 3d printed ones, just need to usethe press some more to see what one I like best.

[EDG]

No need for all that monkey business.
When I got my Rockchucker in 1969 it was my second press. I knew it would spit primers just like my first press so I quit depriming on my presses. I simply use a hand punch. It adds maybe 5 or 6 seconds per round. Hand depriming gets rid of the primers and the ash without making a mess.
Making kluge chutes is not required.

The other benefit is never breaking a decapping pin or bending a decapping rod. I have never damaged either one in 50 years of reloading.
Even if you pick up a Berdan primed case you will normally have enough sense to avoid breaking a hand punch.

[jmorris]

It adds maybe 5 or 6 seconds per round.

Kind of late for my math skills but 5 or 6 seconds per round looks like another hour and a half per 1000. I understand a labor of love but that’s Lee loader territory.

I might be just too used to progressive reloading but I don’t think I could spend 10 min/100 just decapping alone, unless I was just looking for something to do (guess I have done that in the past though).

[Smoke4320]

Type L copper is thicker ..refrigeration
M is for std plumbing

[1066]

[QUOTE=Mal Paso;4453104]

Very Cool! Have you sold any or is it too expensive time and materials to produce that way?

Yes, I've sold a few to shooting buddies, the material costs are not bad but 3d printing is a slow process, at a guess each one take around 4-5 hours to print. Not a problem if I'm in the workshop working on something else at the same time. - I quite enjoy the design process, it took me a fair few goes until I was satisfied with the result.

Here's another couple of bits I've designed and printed:
Magnetic shotgun rack for side of vehicle or cabinet

Inserts for muzzle loading pistol

45-70 loading tray

You can also print photos

[Ole Joe Clarke]

I use the Lee Classic Turret to deprime and size and a 1/2" long piece of a large soda straw split lengthwise to block the slot that allows a stray used primer to escape. I have to watch when I deprime large primers, they will hang up in the shell holder. I need to get real peppy and drill out the hole to about 5/16" or so to eliminate that problem.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

[Minerat]

We have a member, Big Tom that is a vendor sponsor that makes primer catchers might check out his offerings. Here's a link.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...oolits-members

[Mal Paso]

[QUOTE=1066;4453464]

Yes, I've sold a few to shooting buddies, the material costs are not bad but 3d printing is a slow process, at a guess each one take around 4-5 hours to print. Not a problem if I'm in the workshop working on something else at the same time. - I quite enjoy the design process, it took me a fair few goes until I was satisfied with the result.

Here's another couple of bits I've designed and printed:

That's really good info, Thanks!

Type L copper is thicker ..refrigeration
M is for std plumbing

Utility Grade is Thinner than M. I know K,L,M this is N. LOL First time I've seen it. Got it at Orchard Supply at their Going Out of Business, No Refunds Sale. LOL Lowes must have bought them from Kmart/Sears.

Some great info, Thank You!

[EDG]

You really don't have much of an argument. To load ammo that fast you have to spend a lot of time and money on your loading process development plus all the tooling.
Talking about labor of love that is loading shot shells and pistol ammo since neither require much in the way of brain cells. Both are too boring for my attention span.
I have never timed much of anything I load since I only batch process one operation at a time. As soon as you get in a hurry you are not handloading you are just reloading AKA doing plain old work.

No matter how good your process is you still break decapping pins and bend decapping rods.
I suspect you have low mix high volume while I have high mix with over 100 die sets. I find it more interesting than a bazillion of anything.

Kind of late for my math skills but 5 or 6 seconds per round looks like another hour and a half per 1000. I understand a labor of love but that’s Lee loader territory.

I might be just too used to progressive reloading but I don’t think I could spend 10 min/100 just decapping alone, unless I was just looking for something to do (guess I have done that in the past though).