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Thread: 357/38 Special crud rings

  1. #21
    Boolit Master RED BEAR's Avatar
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    i had never heard of this . have a 357 the wife uses to shoot with. doesn't like 357 so she shoots 38. after about twenty years of 38s i decided to shoot some 357s couldn't get a single one in cylinder. took home and an afternoon of brushing and cleaning they would slide in again. bought her a 38 wouldn't do that again.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

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    A longer 357 case slightly belled or expanded to fit the chamber closely. If possible use a all brass case not plated. Hand file saw teeth on mouth make them fine. I use a round jewelers file for this. If you want to make it easier to use or fancier attach it to a handle. 357 max case works well for this tool. Better still might be a 38 55 sized down to 357 if you can do it. To use insert into chamber and give a few turns to scrape out the carbon rings. works quick and easy remove most of it so a brush has very little to remove. A all brass case is recommended since the nickel plating is hard enough to scratch or cut the cylinders metal. When it gets dull or worn simply recut the teeth a little deeper

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I have never had this problem. I have used the nra lube since I started casting. I have been to matches where some people had to clean their guns every relay. let them use some of mt loads and their problem went away.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy JMax's Avatar
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    I made a de leading reamer years ago and found using tornado brushes right after shooting eliminates what little ring I get.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    lewis lead remover tool worked for me ,then I stopped using 38 brass and kept to 357 and no more problem

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
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    SliX makes a chamber cleaner that can be used with both revolvers, from the back end and rifles through the bore. http://www.slixprings.com/SliXprings...structions.pdf

  7. #27
    Boolit Master knifemaker's Avatar
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    For 5 years I shot PPC matches using a S&W M-19 357 mag with a Davis bull barrel and Bomar rib. I probably shot about 40-50 thousand rounds of 38 special wad cutters in that mag cylinder and I never had a problem with a carbon crud ring preventing me from loading mag rounds into the cylinder. After every practice round or match I would use a good solvent and a 40 cal. bore brush to clean the cylinder holes as part of the cleaning operation. I am guessing that this crud problem is the result of gun owners failing to clean their guns after shooting and allowing the crud to harden up in the cylinder holes.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    I built up a crud ring in a single afternoon of shooting 38 special in my 357 on several occasions. Probably 300 rounds. This crud ring was difficult to get out, and I always clean my revolvers after each session.
    I finally figured out it was a combination of the powder and the particular lube I was using. Some lubes combine with some powders to form a much worse ring than others do.
    I changed lubes and the problem disappeared. Now I use a soft lube listed as NRA 50-50(White Label) and have no problems at all. There is a small build up after each session, but it cleans out easily.
    The lube I had trouble with was a green lube, fairly hard, that I purchased on eBay. I still have some of it, but now I only use it in semi auto handguns where a ring never builds up.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master knifemaker's Avatar
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    Tazman you probably hit the nail head with your comment on using a soft lube. We also used the NRA 50-50 lube in our practice and match PPC ammo and never had a problem with regular cleaning of the cylinder holes after shooting several hundred rounds during a practice session. It cleaned out with using solvent and oversize brass bore brush.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    My GP-100 357 gets fed a lot more 38s than 357s and yes I clean it after a range session but I've never had a hard time chambering a 357 and have never noticed said crud ring. But them, I powder coat my lead bullets. Gp

  11. #31
    I just use .357 brass.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master knifemaker's Avatar
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    357 brass is fine if that is your solution, but you can get 38 special brass at a better cheaper price. Even better price for once fired 38 special brass.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    that is why I use skeeter loads. I have 3 buckets of .38 spl. brass.

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy

    RedHawk357Mag's Avatar
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    The listed chamber brushes work pretty well in extending shooting between full detailed cleaning. Using the 357 MAX brass with slight belling works extremely well as a scraper. Still working through my stockpile of lubed bullets and lube stored in lubersizer to test different lubes. Tested some with pan lube and Lee push through sizer to make sure accuracy and limited leading were still possible. I didn't load enough to make a determination about rings from 38 brass. Thanks to all for your suggestions.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Ruger RedHawk 357 Mag 44 Mag GP100 Davidson Exclusive 5" Security Six 2 3/4", Speed Six 4"
    Smith Wesson 629 PP and 686 PP, 617

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check