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Thread: To re-barrel or not to re-barrel

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    To re-barrel or not to re-barrel

    Idk if this should go in the gunsmith thread or not but it’s kind of a hybrid question.i have a service grade CMP garand that using Winchester 150 grain ball ammo shot about a 4” group at 50 yards. Well the crown is in really bad shape and is obviously a big part of the horrible accuracy coupled with me shooting iron sights but I was shooting off of sand bags from a sitting position. I’ve been throwing around in my head the idea of re-barreling it instead of renting a crowning tool. Renting the crowing tool would be a little less than $50 and renting all the stuff and buying the barrel would cost me about $300.

    The real question is for cast bullets is it worth it? The current barrel has stron rifling and the throat is already tapered from previous shooting. The diameter is .3094” from slugging and sizing to .310 gave the best of what accuracy there was. If I get a new barrel I figure I’ll probably end up having to send it off to a fellow on here to have the throat smoothed out for cast bullets. Am I completely wrong here or what? I just don’t want to get a fresh barrel with a throat that is going to shave lead.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    My Garand came to me with a new Criterion barrel (CMP "Special Grade"). I have fired just under 200 cast lead bullets in it and it does not shave lead as the cartridges (cast lead ammo) chamber. Thisis the first time I've heard of this happening.

    When faced with a problem, I normally start with the easiest/quickest fix, in this case cleaning up the crown. I don't think I'd need a dedicated "crowning tool" as I would be just removing dings and burrs, and a counter sink followed by polishing seems to have worked for me in the past (cut with countersink and polish with brass round head screw and valve lapping compound.)...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    2ndAmendmentNut's Avatar
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    I'd give recrowning a try first. I have had some really poor shooters turn into some really good shooters after just a simple recrown job. It sounds like the chamber, diameter and bore/rifling are all in good shape for cast boolit shooting.
    "I don't want men who miss." -Capt. Leander H. McNelly

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    How can renting a crown tool be cheaper than having a barrel replaced?
    There must be a thread about DIY crowning, if not look it up on YouTube. You can use a proper tool or some jacketed bullets, a drill, and some lapping compound unless it's really messed up.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JSnover View Post
    How can renting a crown tool be cheaper than having a barrel replaced?
    There must be a thread about DIY crowning, if not look it up on YouTube. You can use a proper tool or some jacketed bullets, a drill, and some lapping compound unless it's really messed up.
    This is the place to start.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    A pin gauge set would be advised for correct reading of internal muzzle. Cleaning rod damage will usually be a funnel and have seen as much as inch deep or so. It can also contribute to weak or intermittent operation with stack up of worn components, including cylinder to barrel fit, internal cylinder bore and piston wear. This being only on the front end, the stock fit is usually a major factor in accuracy. If the trigger group pops right in and receiver group falls out of stock when inverted, there you go. I have seen some real pooches being peddled at the shows, and it is unfortunate that most of the peddlers do not know the real condition.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    I am in the recrown camp. A new barrel is not necessarily going to be the answer. Second, I assume the ammo is Win White box? I think a box of Fed. 168 gr. match or the Hornady equivalent will give you a better idea of how well that barrel will shoot after the crown job. You can build your cast loads around what you have when you get the crown repaired. If you belong to the CMP forum you might ask your crown question there and they may be able to direct you to someone in your area that will do the recrown if you don't want to tackle the project yourself. And I know all about old eyes. My 70ish eyes make it somewhat taxing when I shoot my Garands.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Pin gage is best to measure wear then there is a muzzle gage made to measure rod damage muzzle wear. Last a 30 caliber flat based bullet can be used base first if it enters the muzzle to any real depth a new barrel may be best. Recrowning will fix the crown damage but if there is any depth to it ( rod damage) that's still going to be there. A poor fitted lock that's to tight can really screw up accuracy also. it should go past 1-2 "hours" then come back to lock in. Another trick on old worn barrels is to lightly peen one side of the splines on the barrel to tighten them. It dosnt take much and takes the radial play out of the gas cylinder and front sight mount

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

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    http://forums.thecmp.org/forumdisplay.php?f=94 There are some fellers here with many, many years experience with all aspects of Garand shooting, maintenance, reloading, and history...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    IIRC there is a ball bearing/Clover trick for cheap recrowning that works. Just takes out nicks.
    Whatever!

  11. #11
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    Take that credit card that you really ought to cut up anyway and cut some strips and fit them between the receiver and stock, near the front to give some pressure when the fire control group is latched. Trigger guard clamped tighter, no wiggle in the stock, peen the barrel threads to tighten gas cylinder/front sight assy, big round headed brass screw in a drill motor with a little valve grinding compound to smooth the muzzle. Get back to us.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    I belong to the re-crown camp as well. When I bought my new Kimber 84 in 7-08, it was a 2" @ 100 yd gun with everything I tried. Disappointed? You bet I was. I sent it back to Kimber and they sent it back with an invoice that said they re-cut the crown and it is now a 3/4" rifle with 4 different hunting loads. It's worth a try for sure. Brownells sells crowning balls for reasonable $.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  13. #13
    In Remembrance


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    In my foggy old mind I seem to recall about using oval headed brass screws and different grades of clover brand valve grinding compound. The screw is in a drill motor and isn`t being spun that rapidly.Robert

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I’m sure you can buy a barrel for$300. But then there is the gunsmithing costs to fit it to your reciver just right then bluing or parkerizing and maybe more for sight placement. And don’t forget reaming for the right head spacing may be needed.

    I would first try recrowning and check the price for a gunsmith to do it. If you are a machinist, of course you could do it yourself. Even the new barrel work. If not, having a gunsmith do it will give you the piece of mind, that it was done right so if it still doesn’t shoot the way you want, you will never wonder if maybe you didn’t do it right.

    Some people cut off a small piece of the end of the barrel before they Crown it.

    I was considering rebarreling a 6.5x55 Swede and decided to just buy another one. I figured it would cost the same in the end, but I wouldn’t have the long wait time before I could shoot it.

    I love those Garands. Mine is now passed down to my son. We never shot much paper with it but it’s just a fun rifle to shoot.

    Good luck and let us know what you did and how it work out for you.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    Lol well I think the vote is in I’m going to just rent the crowning tool, it’s $50 and comes with a pilot. With a little tap magic I looks like it should make a beautiful crown and clean up the muzzle a little. I have heard of the brass screw trick and used it with good success on an old 22lr so I know that works as well but like I said the whole muzzle is ugly so this tool cuts in kind of a v shape should clean it up really pretty. I will let y’all know how it works out when I get enough time to get around to renting the reamer and doing the job. Right now Uncle Sam isn’t giving me much time to myself lol.

    I will also finally use that agraglass kit I bought 2 years ago still in the plastic and bed the receiver.

    My main concern was that as old and used as the barrel is y’all would tell me to buy a new barrel and not throw $50 in the trash or waste my time trying to crown it.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Without gauging and then knowing the TE and ME, IMHO you could very well be throwing a fifty in the air.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    Just keep in mind that the military frequently counter-bored both rifles and carbines to restore accuracy to worn muzzles, The muzzles seem to swallow a gauge, but are nearly as accurate as new barrels. Don't sell recrowning and counter-boring short. They can work miracles with many of these old warhorses.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master Forrest r's Avatar
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    Before I did anything to that garand I'd invest $10 in 1 of these
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-5mm-7mm-8...r=571728151145

    That way you can get a good look at this area of the bbl.
    [IMG][/IMG]

  19. #19
    Boolit Bub
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    I’d try the crowning first, but I’d probably have it done on a lathe instead of using hand tools.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gtek View Post
    Without gauging and then knowing the TE and ME, IMHO you could very well be throwing a fifty in the air.
    I won’t argue your point but how much more money do I need to spend? Last time I looked gauges are $40! I would rather spend $50 and even if there are no large accuracy gains the muzzle will stop looking like **** than spend $40 so I know that I need to spend $50.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check