9mm mould advice... something in the 125 grain range.

[Rcmaveric]

Switching from 2 cycle oil to anti seize compound on the sprue plate really helped combat the galling on my Lee molds.

The .356 showed signs of wear and galling after 2 years and several thousand of bullets. The anti seize has halted it. My other Lee molds show no real galling or wear after a year and a couple thousand bullets.

I swear the Lee aluminum is softer than the others. I have no idea though. It just appears to wear faster. After switching to anti seize and being nice to these molds i can see them lasting a good long while.

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[John McCorkle]

Switching from 2 cycle oil to anti seize compound on the sprue plate really helped combat the galling on my Lee molds.

The .356 showed signs of wear and galling after 2 years and several thousand of bullets. The anti seize has halted it. My other Lee molds show no real galling or wear after a year and a couple thousand bullets.

I swear the Lee aluminum is softer than the others. I have no idea though. It just appears to wear faster. After switching to anti seize and being nice to these molds i can see them lasting a good long while.

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Just regular anti seize pipe dope? That's awesome, thank you.

Does it take time to smoke out of the mold cavities when applied? (Like 2cycle oil leaves very wrinkled bullets for a while until it worked out of the cavities)

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[sigep1764]

Accurate molds 358 120B. Copy of the Lyman 356402. Its a longer truncated cone boolit that drops about 125 and 360 for me. Very easy to load for and pretty accurate.

[Rcmaveric]

I havent gotten it inside the mold cavities, yet. I leave the bullets inside the cavities. Then coat the underside of the sprue plate and the leading edge of the top of the blocks. Then work the sprue a couple of times and dump the bullets. The coating isnt thick. Just a daub on a qtip and spread around. Then use the other end of the qtip to wipe off any access.

Oddly when you read what this stuff is for. To prevent galling in high temps. Kind of makes since to use it. I still give a drop of oil on the sprue hinge bolt and a swip with a qtip to the alignment pins.

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[fredj338]

Spend a bit more & get a mold from Accurate. Get it anyway you like, 2-5cav. I prefer a 4cav mold in iron, saves weight & a good balance of fill time, set time & bullet production.

[sukivel]

Lee 125 rnfp

+1...6 cavity...sized to .357, works excellent in my Austrian friend...


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[DonMountain]

I havent gotten it inside the mold cavities, yet. I leave the bullets inside the cavities. Then coat the underside of the sprue plate and the leading edge of the top of the blocks. Then work the sprue a couple of times and dump the bullets. The coating isnt thick. Just a daub on a qtip and spread around. Then use the other end of the qtip to wipe off any access.

Oddly when you read what this stuff is for. To prevent galling in high temps. Kind of makes since to use it. I still give a drop of oil on the sprue hinge bolt and a swip with a qtip to the alignment pins.

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Well, I have a pint bottle of that stuff in the shop and I thought it was something special for putting spark plugs in aluminum heads of airplane engines. And just last week I was wondering what to put on that LEE 356-125-2R mold sprue plate to stop that galling problem. And that Anti-Seize bottle was on a cabinet right behind me the whole time!

[mattw]

I use the aviation permatex anti-seize often. It has copper and higher temp carriers. Works very well on everything I have tried it on!

[Houndog]

The Lee trunicated cone boolet WITH the lube groove, the Lyman 356402 and the RCBS trunicated cone 9mm boolet are all excellent, and in fact the boolets from all three molds I own seat where they should with the same seating die setting. My favorite is the RCBS mold because tolerances and machining on it is better than the other two, but all three make excellent boolets. I use Unique powder because there is absolutely no chance of a double charge fitting in the case.

[mattw]

The Lee trunicated cone boolet WITH the lube groove, the Lyman 356402 and the RCBS trunicated cone 9mm boolet are all excellent, and in fact the boolets from all three molds I own seat where they should with the same seating die setting. My favorite is the RCBS mold because tolerances and machining on it is better than the other two, but all three make excellent boolets. I use Unique powder because there is absolutely no chance of a double charge fitting in the case.

Thanks for the info! I have a bunch of Lyman/Ideal, a handful of NOE, a few Lee and even fewer RCBS and a random Saeco. I really like the way the RCBS casts, I am not sure if it is the alloy that the mould is made from, the tolerances or the venting... but they almost immediately make great bullets. I wish they made 3 or 4 cavity moulds, I like the 2 4 cavity iron moulds that I own, they seem to stay at operating temp very well and I do not have to cast my keester off to keep them hot.

Loading... I load on a single stage and have for 30 years. I have run 1050's, but would not for my personal stuff. I like to fill 3 or 4 trays of brass, charge each tray and inspect charge levels, then seat the bullet and finally crimp each one. I never crimp and seat at the same time. I have all winter to make ammo for the following summer, so I cast and load when it is crappy and cold. I like the casting and loading process as much as I like the emptying process!

[ThomR]

Mattw, If you want to try out some of the Lee 124 grain TC tumble lube bullets let me know. I will send you some.
I can't speak for the 120 grain lube groove version, but the tumble lube version is very accurate out of my pistol.

[Echo]

I cast a bunch of 4 different design boolits for son to use, and he had the best luck with the RCBS 09-124-FN. As cast, TL'd they run through his guns like butter.

[Alstep]

I have terrible leading problems with my CZ75. Size .358 and using 2pb/1lino with NRA lube and unique have helped somewhat, but have not solved the problem. Softer alloys are really terrible. Even had Doug Guy ream the chamber. Have tried all kind's of mold designs. What have I missed? Any suggestions?

[winelover]

I have terrible leading problems with my CZ75. Size .358 and using 2pb/1lino with NRA lube and unique have helped somewhat, but have not solved the problem. Softer alloys are really terrible. Even had Doug Guy ream the chamber. Have tried all kind's of mold designs. What have I missed? Any suggestions?

Use a gas check design or install plain base checks on bullets that don't have the gas check shank. Had to go this route with my CZ Scorpion carbine.

Winelover

[6622729]

Believe it or not, have been casting for decades and only have a 9mm 147 TC mould. My kids now have decided that they like shooting 9mm's, but with a lower recoil 125 LRN load that I put together. I almost never shot lighter 9's and never felt the need to make them... but now that has changed.

So, to hold them over I picked up a couple of 500 packs of LRN 125's. Man the quality of commercial cast bullets really stinks! I find that I would have thown back maybe 2 or 3 in 15 from both brands. I can't stand it anymore! I have an assortment of 1911's, an FM Hi-Power and an Sccy all in 9mm. The LRN feeds well, but I really like a more flat meplat. Tell me what you have found to be the most reliable bullet in this weight with a flatish nose.

I would like to be able to get it in a 4 cavity or 2 cavity iron mould. I will be casting with 94-3-3 so a gas check will not be needed. I really do not like Lee moulds, but may end up going that way. Have never used the larger ones with the extra handle. I like the looks of the RCBS 9mm-124-CN, but question how well it will feed. I have used the Lee 358-105-SWC from time to time in 9mm's. Not a great feeder and not much in the way of driving bands. I will not tumble lube for these or almost any bullet, so the Lee TL moulds are off the table.

Thanks Matt

I wish you'd not artificially limit yourself. The Lee tumble lube aluminum molds for 9mm are so painless. Lee 124 grain truncated cone or the 124 round nose. Both are flawless, tumble lube reliably and never fail to feed in my KKM barreled Glocks. Get a $25 2 cavity and try it out. No sizing. They have always been crazy accurate for me. I generally shoot handgun at about 15 yds. I'm using 4.5 grains Accurate Silhouette for 1000 fps over the chrono in a Glock 34.

[mattw]

I wish you'd not artificially limit yourself. The Lee tumble lube aluminum molds for 9mm are so painless. Lee 124 grain truncated cone or the 124 round nose. Both are flawless, tumble lube reliably and never fail to feed in my KKM barreled Glocks. Get a $25 2 cavity and try it out. No sizing. They have always been crazy accurate for me. I generally shoot handgun at about 15 yds. I'm using 4.5 grains Accurate Silhouette for 1000 fps over the chrono in a Glock 34.

I am not limiting myself... I have shot them in 45acp, 357 and 40/10mm. It is a personal preference. I do not like the lube in my dies, on my hands and making the funky smell when burning in my guns. I have picked up the materials to make 45/45/10 for 2 guns... the little 32acp pills are so small that I can't hardly get them out of my size die and I do not have a star die in .311. So, this winter I am going to test coating the little guys and using an H&I in a push thru configuration. I have tried the TL bullets as dropped and lubed a couple of times. One worked and one turned to of my 45acp's into lead lined tubes.

[sigep1764]

358 is what I use in my 75B, but I use wheel weight and Lyman Orange Magic or Supermoly. I would change the lube and try some. If that doesn't work, change to harder alloy. Only change one thing at a time.

Also have you slugged your bore? Next thing, have you measured a pulled boolit to see if your brass is swaging your boolit down?

[popper]

35-135S for XDs.

[MtnGunner]

I've always had great luck with a Lee 125 grain RN, 6 cavity. Shoots well in several different 9mms

[redhawk0]

I use the Lee 356-124-TC TL mold also. I use LLA cut 60/40 with mineral spirits. My old 1917 dated Luger P-08 eats them like candy.

redhawk