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Thread: Need help with stock and barrel

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy vrh's Avatar
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    Need help with stock and barrel

    Hello everyone.

    I let my guard down and bought a CVA 50 Cal Hawken ( Kit Gun) at a nearby pawn store.
    First I will ask about the stock. It appears that the stock was not properly sanded down. Then a medium dark stain was applied. Then it looks like the previous owner used either shellac or varnish on the stock. I was able to scrape a lot of that finish off with my knife.( Ii just curled up and fell off as I scrapped) What can I use to remove all of it? Would paint thinner work on removing it or what would work? I will bleach the stock after I finish sanding it.
    Next is the barrel. The bore was a little rusty. But I was able to get most of the rust out of it. There is a small rough spot near the crown. But it also seems to be removed by steel wool and solvent on the ramrod. The blueing is in bad shape. It appears to have had something spilled on it and it removed the blueing in a spiral fashion. What can I use to remove the rest of the blueing since I will brown the barrel?
    Da Okie/ Now known as Vearl

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Paint stripper, whatever flavor you like best; evapo-rust, that stuff works great; and Birchwood Casey Rust & Blue remover. Will probably need to polish the metal a bit with 320 after using the BC stuff before browning.

    Neglected muzzleloaders seems to be my new passion. Not sure how that happened...

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I would suggest wearing rubber gloves when doing the removal and work outside. I would also check the trigger and lock internals very closely to make sure they did not get gooped up with the finish that was applied?

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Toymaker's Avatar
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    Strippers tend to raise the grain of the wood, which isn't bad but needs a good sanding when you're done. Easier, and needing only a light sanding, is to remove any rubber or plastic fittings and spray the stock with carb cleaner, wiping with shop towels. Work outside because of the fumes.
    There are several rust and blue removers. Birchwood Casey is a good one. I find a highly polished barrel doesn't brown well, so I leave them a tad rough. CLEAN is the important step. I rinse them with acetone and then rinse them again. MSM Browning is excellent. I'd card and apply before leaving for work in the morning then card and apply after dinner at night. Upon the suggestion of a "friend" I once tried horse urine. It worked, but the wife wasn't too pleased with the smell. A browning box is a must.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    Plug your bore with something - cork or wax plug and then wrap your barrel in paper towel - put on something that will not matter like an old bath towel, etc. - then soak the paper towel with vinegar and let it sit. Vinegar will remove blueing and I've used it a number of times - did it on a Uberti 1851 Nayy that I "antiqued". When you remove the paper towel, flush the barrel in hot water, dry - a towel and hair dryer works well to warm up the barrel. Then you can polish with 400 or 600 paper and wipe down with alcohol and apply what finish you want if you don't leave it in the white.

    Paint remvoer will work as mentioned - especially if you don't know what was put on it. Once you have the old finish off, wash it with a towel and water and soap - wipe with a towel with just plain water and let dry. Most of the CVA stocks that I have had or seen appear to be birch of some species or other unknown specie. "Whisker" the stock a number of times and sand with fine paper 0 then apply your stain and finish. If the stock is birch, birch tends to stain "muddy". Many of the production stocks are sprayed with a "toner" - basically a finish with a stain in it that will give an even color. I used it a lot in my cabinet shop - normally a lacquer toner - when I had my shop. No two pieces of wood from different trees stain alike and the cabinet industry uses toner to even out the color so all the cabinets match.

  6. #6
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    I use aircraft and boat stripper, from Sherwin Williams. For the blueing, brush on muriatic acid, nearly instant removal. Do it in a well vented area, preferably outside.

    If the stock is birch, my best luck has been blending Fiebing leather dye to reach the color I want. Test on a piece of pine. I just did a fiddle with it yesterday, looks great. The colors you want to blend are yellow, red, and medium brown. It won't come out muddy looking, like most other stains do on birch.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    Most stock finishes (except epoxy types) are readily removed with Homer Formby's Furniture Refinisher, following the directions on the can.

    (because it evaporates so rapidly, I pour a little bit into a small bowl, quickly re-capping the can.)





    It available at most good hardware stores, HomeCheapo, Lowes, Ace, & even WallyWorld.
    .
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check