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Thread: Belding & Mull "Visible" Powder Measure

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Weaponologist's Avatar
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    Belding & Mull "Visible" Powder Measure

    I've heard nothing but good things about these measures so I jumped on the wagon some time back and have to say I'm very pleased so far. I liked the one I had so well that when I got a chance to pick up one that had never been used and Factory Fresh I jumped on that one also. The only issue is it has no Brass Powder Hopper. So I knew if anyone had either a Hopper for a B&M or the ability to make one it would be a member on Cast Boolits.. If anyone could steer me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it. Also, If anyone has one let us know if you still use it even thou it's slower to use.. I love keeping older reloading tools alive. I got several of the older double beam scales that work perfectly. I don't use them. Their more of a decoration in my reloading room but their part of History to a sport that I Truly love.. Here is a little visual porn of my 2 Belding & Mull "Visible" Powder Measures... You'll notice the one with No Hopper...

    Attachment 226481
    Last edited by Weaponologist; 09-02-2018 at 12:54 AM.
    ............(Lông Trắng)............
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    I don't have a hopper, but I also have two. As far as I am concerned they are over and above anything on the market. Ball or stick powder.
    Those that use lots of H1000 and 4198, I don't know how the get by with out one. I have complete trust in it for SR4759 as well.
    Jeff

  3. #3
    Boolit Master PBSmith's Avatar
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    Weapon,
    You might want to check the Belding & Mull website. Some time ago they were selling parts for the powder measure you own, though I don't know if the brass hopper was available. Give them a call. If a brass hopper is available, it won't be inexpensive. Today, Belding & Mull is an all-purpose gun store that simply bought out or inherited the old name. With the possible exception of parts for the powder measure, I'm not aware they offer any of the early B&M reloading equipment

    Having roots in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, where Philipsburg is located, I had to buy one of the B&M gadgets myself. A previous owner had modified the bench attachment. That original little screw clamp was a poor arrangement. Some owners found improvement by drilling a shallow blind hole on the underside of the bench into which the clamp pad fit.

    My measure came with 10 or 12 solid brass measures of a fixed volume, stamped with the powder type and grains. I don't know if these were an original accessory, or if the previous owner, an accomplished machinist, made them himself. The idea was you had these fixed brass measures for your pet loads, thus eliminating the need to adjust the screw-type measure.

    Also, the handle on my B&M is a heavy stainless steel one, as opposed to the cast iron. Whether or not this was a factory option/variation, or an improvement made by an inventive owner, I can't say.
    Last edited by PBSmith; 09-02-2018 at 10:31 AM.

  4. #4
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    I have one and like it for very small lots, but for most reloading, I use one of the half dozen other powder measures on my bench.

    You can measure the OD of the brass measure and replace it with a plastic hopper, if you can't find an original brass hopper. It won't look the same, but it will work.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    Ickisrulz's Avatar
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    Check here:

    http://montanavintagearms.com/reloading/

    I'm betting they sell parts too.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    My B&M Visible is my primary smokeless powder measure. I have three sheets of settings for various loads of various powders, which get me close for the next charging session. The old Belding and Mull Handbooks also have charge tables for the measure, although many of the powders are now obsolete.

    It’s not as fast as the crank drum types, but it handles all powders to +-.2 gr. max, and I’m not a devotee of speed reloading anyway. I like being able to look at the powder level in the charge tube and see that it hasn’t bridged or otherwise varied before it goes in the case.

    If you have an Industrial Metals place somewhere around, you might find a short length of the right size brass or aluminum tubing in their remainders section. A check of some of the home shop machinist sites might find suppliers of small quantities of such stock.

    Somebody on this forum found something (engine block expansion plugs? can’t remember) that are usable replacements for the original brass caps.

    The things are worth picking up on general principle if they’re offered at a low price. I have an extra that I had to replace the glass in the hopper, and also have the Standard and Magnum charge tubes, both in micrometer screw and sliding style.

  7. #7
    In Remembrance


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    I got my B&M measure in with a box of other loading equipment back in 1980 for a price of $5 at a yard sale. The measure tube was missing so I had a machinest friend make such a thing by boring out a piece of brass rod that was a snug but loose tube with a threaded opposite end that a bolt with a floating stopper on the tube end to serve as an adjustable powder measure. About 1990 I happened onto the B&M web site and purchased a new magnum size powder measure tube. Slow, yes, not dead on accurate as other measures, also yes, do I enjoy using this old lady - YES.Robert

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Measure it up and online metals can supply you the brass tubing in 1 ft lengths. Just cut to desired length and drill the 3 .060 holes every 120*.

    I bought one with out a hopper also. I found a copper fitting that fit the body and made a adapter to hold a powder can with an lid from one. I use this one for BP now. I have a adapter for old ensforde and swiss bottles for it. I added a baffle in the adapters tube also.

    Online metals sells metals for the hobbiest in 1 foot length increments. The tubing can be purchased to make the hopper and measuring tubes. Having tubes pre set for a often used charge is fast LOL. A 12" length of 1/2" od x .030 wall tubing will make 3 or 4 tubes depending on if you make them 3" or 4" lengths. A piece .437 X .030 wall makes the end and bushing for the bottom. this may need to be polished down a little to get a sliding fit. 12" makes enough for 6 tubes. A piece of 3/8 24 makes the od and a 1/3 stop collar makes the lock.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Fred's suggestion is probably your best bet. My own B&M was far from 'new' when I bought it from an estate auction over twenty years ago. The hopper, then, had already been replaced with one turned from heavy-wall aluminum tubing, complete with an o-ringed cap and powder level indicator. Over the course of more than a few thousand rounds of reloads, I've had to do a 'fix' or two of my own (a couple springs and a broken screw) but it's still the most consistently accurate measure I own.

    Bill
    "I'm not often right but I've never been wrong."

    Jimmy Buffett
    "Scarlet Begonias"

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    The original measures were brass, then they used aluminum, Then, the last ones
    made used plastic. I've seen them with a tube over a foot high. I don't know if
    they were factory or "home made".
    Denny

  11. #11
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    The tubes are a standard size, and you can buy plastic tubes that will fit. I am pretty sure it is the same size as my Q-M hoppers.

    Try contacting B&M. I stopped up there a few years ago and talked to them. They should have the tube.
    Member: Orange Gunsite Family, NRA-Life, ARTCA, American Legion, & the South Cuyahoga Gun Club.

    Caveat Emptor: Do not trust Cavery Grips/American Gripz/Prestige Grips/Stealth Grips from Clayton, NC. He will rip you off.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Thirty or so years ago when I was starting to accumulate my trove of reloading tools, the B&M Visble Powder Measure was regarded as the top of the heap. They also cost more on the used market and were harder to find than they are now. I really don’t know what has happened, but through it all I’ve continued to use and enjoy mine. I recommend that every serious reloaded probably should own one... I know I’m keeping at least one of mine!

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  13. #13
    In Remembrance


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    I`m sure that all owners of the B&M measure know of the anguish and frustration over the broken powder sight glass when it happened.Robert

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    I just replace it with a thin piece of plexiglas.
    Denny

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

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    On true glass windows in the B&M light rubber washers under the crew heads help stop slow the breaking cracking. allows for some give when expansion occurs and still keeps it sealed. On my one I glued the glass in with clear silicone sealant and use the screws barely snug to support. Its been running for years now like this.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy Weaponologist's Avatar
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    Thank you all. Was away for the holiday weekend and just got back this evening. Will start my search this week with everyones suggestions. Something I didn't ask before cause I felt the hopper was more important but now that I have plenty of ideas to solve that issue. My next question is... Other than the blind screw method I saw someone added. What other Ideas do you all use for mounting your B&M? Have any of you made a portable stand you can bring the measure out when needed then put it away? I have so many different tools but only a limited amount of bench space. and my bench is very thick for the B&M.. I've been (C) clamping a board to the bench then just using the B&M own clamp to the board. Not very pretty but it works.. How do you guys work around this? Please show pic's if you have them... If I need to start another post with this question let me know and I will.....
    ............(Lông Trắng)............
    (si vis pacem, para bellum)

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have a stand made from wood for clamp on measures. It can be c-clamped down or locked in place with a strap clamp or bolts. Mounting the belding and mull measures is a little different from rotary measures as the motion is side ways not up and down. The mounting needs to hold up to more twist.
    I believe a lot mount these on the front edge of a shelf.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master

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    I cut a triangle shaped notch on the front of my bench..(overhang).
    Then the measure sits back into the notch and can't move from side
    to side when throwing the powder charges. Works perfect.
    Denny

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Weaponologist, for schuetzen events (where competitors often load their cartridges on the bench as they shoot) I had a stand made from a pipe clamp. It had two flat plates of aluminum, one for my B&M powder measure and another for part of a Freeland scope stand to hold my spotting scope. Above them was a horizontal section of pipe to rest the rifle on between offhand shots. No reason a similar but shorter system couldn’t clamp to your reloading bench.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    On true glass windows in the B&M light rubber washers under the crew heads help stop slow the breaking cracking. allows for some give when expansion occurs and still keeps it sealed. On my one I glued the glass in with clear silicone sealant and use the screws barely snug to support. Its been running for years now like this.
    Quote Originally Posted by Weaponologist View Post
    Thank you all. Was away for the holiday weekend and just got back this evening. Will start my search this week with everyones suggestions. Something I didn't ask before cause I felt the hopper was more important but now that I have plenty of ideas to solve that issue. My next question is... Other than the blind screw method I saw someone added. What other Ideas do you all use for mounting your B&M? Have any of you made a portable stand you can bring the measure out when needed then put it away? I have so many different tools but only a limited amount of bench space. and my bench is very thick for the B&M.. I've been (C) clamping a board to the bench then just using the B&M own clamp to the board. Not very pretty but it works.. How do you guys work around this? Please show pic's if you have them... If I need to start another post with this question let me know and I will.....
    I mounted mine on a 4/4” cherry board which I clamp to the reloading bench. Works great! When Ifirst started, the loading for the bench rest matches were given in the B&M units. Figured if it worked for those guys it should work for me and it has for. Over 40 years.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check