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Thread: Tried my hand at highlighting

  1. #1
    Boolit Master 43PU's Avatar
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    Tried my hand at highlighting

    Tried my hand at highlighting a Arisaka I got off a vet about 5 years ago what do you think?Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master 43PU's Avatar
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    Some more pictures of it... the vet was a 1919 gunner
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    I got my bank lady to translate this for me...I love living in the boonies. She said it says Wooden sword 23
    Last edited by 43PU; 09-01-2018 at 10:00 PM.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    leebuilder's Avatar
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    Neat rifle, some thing we never see up here. Nice highlighting, I highlighted a finned m91 full of stamps. I used a drywall repair crayon, but you have to clean with acetone to get it to stick to steel. Got to love the history.
    Be well
    When you read the fine print you get an education
    when you ignore the fine print you get experience

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    It looks good. Time to blow the cobwebs out of the barrel. A late friend brought over a 7.7 like yours a few years ago. It was brought back by his FIL in 1945 and hadn't been fired since. I ran a patch thru the barrel, loaded it with a single Hotshot brand round- and center punched the orange 1/2" dot I was aiming at 40 yds away. I quit while I was ahead. I still have that target for a memory of my friend.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Looks good, when Iv'e high lighted markings in the past I used white out typing correction fluid but I guess that stuff is long gone these days.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    1Hawkeye -- Bic Extra Coverage Wite*Out is still available, at least in stores in my locale, in 0.70 ounce/20 ml plastic bottle. I am a frequent user of it, primarily to change balance in my check-book to correct (from bank) balance, rather than my attempts . I have most all my firearms hi-lighted, and I use a white china markers after I diligently void all oil in area with an isopropyl alcohol coated tooth-brush. The entire area is whitened, followed by gentle but firm removal of excess with paper towels. Works for me, generally looks great (imho), and seems to last. My only challenge is often, with a real antique firearm, part or all of the numbers/letter/logo is no longer deep enough to accept/hold any hi-lighting, but -- I still do it on these. Definitely an "addition", and the china marker remains removable in future if wanted by, say, a future owner. Lastly, the marker seems to not be affected/removed by G96 and/or Butch's Bore Shine -- my main cleaning chemicals. Gun oil seems to make it less pure-white -- perhaps just a teeny tad on the yellowish hue -- with this further adding to its look.
    geo

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Good to see the "mum" in good shape. Hope it shoots. My buddy has a "last ditch" 7.7 that looks like a12 year old made it. Roughest machining I've ever seen, but it shoots very well.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Hawkeye View Post
    Looks good, when Iv'e high lighted markings in the past I used white out typing correction fluid but I guess that stuff is long gone these days.
    They don't use it much anymore its difficult to remove from the screens of PC and Word Processor monitors.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Nice highlighting and nice model 99. Looks like you have a Tokyo Juki Kogyo. Here's a link to identifying the rifle's series and approximate manufacture date.
    http://oldmilitarymarkings.com/japanese_markings.html

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check