RCBS 5-10 Scale

[SharuLady]

I apologize in advance for this long message but I thought it best to give all the pertinent information.

I have a RCBS 5-10 scale that I need some help with. Originally when I got it, I worked on getting it to read properly. Then I adjusted the shot in the lower pan & got it to be correct.

Then I used my full set of Lyman Check weights to test it again, The scale was on the money with each check weight.

Then one day while I was testing some powder loads for accuracy I noticed the small metal plate on the Beam Assembly Bar for the Micrometer Poise adjusting of the smaller weights of Tenths was coming off (which it did do just that). I then cleaned off the back side of the metal plate of glue and other residue, used some 800 grit sandpaper On the back of the plate to make it smooth and then cleaned it with some acetone with a cue tip. I did the same thing to the scale Micrometer Poise Bar where the plate was attached.

I know I need to glue it back on with (either epoxy, super glue etc.). Just not sure which would be best.

Now my main problem left is when I place the graduated plate in the space on the bar, it does not fill the space completely. If I center the plate in the space, the is a small gap on both sides. I need to find what the proper placement is on the bar space. I have not been able to find a clear pic or measurement to place it in the proper placement. I do have the Adobe file for the RCBS 5-10, but the pictures are not clear.

Ideally before it fell off I could have marked it with small etching pin to mark the location but of course it fell off before I could do this.

I am hoping some one can provide a clear picture of the placement and/or a measurement as to the proper placement.

TYIA for any info or comments,

SharuLady

[1066]

HI there - The little play either side of the indicator plate is there to allow a bit of adjustment so when the scale is zeroed and the barrel poise is also zeroed it lines up with the zero mark on the indicator plate. I know that sounds confusing but it will be self evident when you try and fit it..

So - set the main poise to zero, set the barrel poise to zero, then stick the plate on so it lines up with the barrel poise zero. I would use a couple of spots of super glue, however, it's a one way ticket, once it's on it's on. or you could try a couple of small squares of double sided tape to try it before you use the super glue.

[Wayne Smith]

Also the pan holder has several shot in the base to create the balance. If you get it off just a little I'd adjust the pan holder.

[1066]

If the zero mark on the plate is not in line with zero mark on the barrel then adjusting the tare weight won't make any difference, it will never line up.

[SharuLady]

TYVM for your replies, My comments will be inline for each reply.

HI there - The little play either side of the indicator plate is there to allow a bit of adjustment so when the scale is zeroed and the barrel poise is also zeroed it lines up with the zero mark on the indicator plate. I know that sounds confusing but it will be self evident when you try and fit it..

So - set the main poise to zero, set the barrel poise to zero, then stick the plate on so it lines up with the barrel poise zero. I would use a couple of spots of super glue, however, it's a one way ticket, once it's on it's on. or you could try a couple of small squares of double sided tape to try it before you use the super glue.

Ok, will try your advice and will try your idea of double sided tape & if I get it set right, will use a etching pin to mark the 2 sides before I use any glue just in case as well.

If the zero mark on the plate is not in line with zero mark on the barrel then adjusting the tare weight won't make any difference, it will never line up.

Ok, will keep this in mind as well.

Also the pan holder has several shot in the base to create the balance. If you get it off just a little I'd adjust the pan holder.

Before the marked increments plate came off I had already adjusted the pellets in the lower pan. It was right on the money (arrow),but I will check it again when I get it set, before I use and super glue for permanent placement.

Ty you gentlemen for your comments and help once more.

SharuLady

[SharuLady]

Hi,
I failed to mention that I also have a Lee Scale. A while back I had called Lee Techs and was asking if I could put in new magnets for the scale because it took forever & a day to settle down. They had me send it back and they did some adjustments in it and sent it back (no shipping charge) and it works like a dream now and it's right on the money.
I also have a F.A. digital scale but I know it is a little off (I don't trust digital scales). So I wanted to have the use of the 3 scales just to be able to verify the powder loads. I do also have the Lee powder scoops. Just want to be sure of the powder loads.

Especially since I will be shortly, after case mouth expansion & loading the primers. will be setting the boolits. Up till now I have prepped all My brass Washed in the F.A.R.T with steel pins, poured all my boolits and ASBB PCed them. So soon I will be starting to load and put it all together. Then to test the boolits.

SharuLady

[1066]

That all sound good..I would invest in a basic grain check weight set. Both RCBS an Lyman do a at for around $35, they will last a lifetime and give you peace of mind what ever scale you are using.
The old 5-10 is an excellent old scale, they were all made in the US as opposed to any 505 or 10/10's made in the last 8-10 years or so that were all made in either China or Mexico.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

I purchased a used RCBS 10-10 beam scale a couple of years ago. The stick on scale was missing, so the good folks at RCBS sent me another. I found out the lines are not marked correctly and as I move the barrel the "0" does not line up with the lines on the stick on scale. I solved the problem by making sure I count the turns on the barrel and double check with weights.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

[1066]

I found out the lines are not marked correctly and as I move the barrel the "0" does not line up with the lines on the stick on scale.

That's why there's some leeway on the indicator plate housing Leon. You should set the barrel poise to zero then position the plate to line up, then adjust the tare weights in the weight pan if necessary.

[country gent]

I would use double faced tape to attach it if possible. We had a few rolls of very thin double face tape at work that was tenatious stuff ( 3-m I believe). On thin parts we would mill a plate flat in the vise then enough of this tape to make a pad for the part and stick the part down on it tight. I would holdup to light milling and made it easy to get accurate results.


I would peel enough to cover plate and stick plate on it then peel back off and like a tile work into position with the zero on the poise. If you don't like the results a soak in alcohol releases it and you can start over.

If I remember correctly what we had was .008 thick so about the same as glue bond. We use this for milling thin parts, attaching thin rubber to vibratory feeder rails ( test to see if it helped parts to feed. Here it would hold up for 3-4 days sometimes longer depending on parts and how clean the surfaces were).

For this project double faced tape, contact cement, super glue in that order. epoxies cure time and weight are going to be issues as the epoxy cures the scale may want to slide. Industrial grade double faced tape will do a great job here

[SharuLady]

Hi,
Well, I got the scale fixed today. It was just like you stated:

Quote Originally Posted by 1066 View Post

HI there - The little play either side of the indicator plate is there to allow a bit of adjustment so when the scale is zeroed and the barrel poise is also zeroed it lines up with the zero mark on the indicator plate. I know that sounds confusing but it will be self evident when you try and fit it..

So - set the main poise to zero, set the barrel poise to zero, then stick the plate on so it lines up with the barrel poise zero. I would use a couple of spots of super glue, however, it's a one way ticket, once it's on it's on. or you could try a couple of small squares of double sided tape to try it before you use the super glue.


I used some double sided tape to set in back in place after doing the aforementioned info. It was great! I didn't have to adjust the tare at all.

Lots of great people here that help others with so many things! That is so amazing!!

TYVM one and all,

SharuLady

[1066]

Excellent result - pleased you got it fixed.

[country gent]

Glad to hear of your succsess in bringing a great piece of equipment back to the useable.