Lee PrecisionReloading EverythingTitan ReloadingLoad Data
RotoMetals2MidSouth Shooters SupplyWidenersInline Fabrication
Repackbox
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Lyman mold

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Baldwin Co, across bay from Mobile, AL
    Posts
    1,126

    Lyman mold

    Hello, a question for ya'll. I've acquired an old Lyman 358156 mold and the top is sorta buggered up just a tad. The mold is usable as is but I'd like a nice pretty smooth top. I'd like to refinish either with a fly cutter or a surface grinder. Problem is how to remove the stop pin for the sprue plate?

    Thanks to all for any comments or suggestions.

    Ken H>

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Mike W1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Rural Sumner, IA
    Posts
    1,317
    Some notes I've gleaned various places.

    Heat the mould really hot, then hold a piece of dry ice (with tongs!) against the pin for a few seconds, then try pulling the pin out. You might get away with using freezer ice, then again you might not.

    There's also an aerosol product called Freeze Off which is a penetrating oil propelled with something like what's used in wart removers, i.e. it gets stupid cold when it depressurizes and evaporates. It's used for shrinking stuck parts, like pins. Freeze the pin, lock it in a vise quickly and crank on the mould block with a padded wrench. Or grind it flat, center punch it, and drill it out.

    The pin is 5/32 diameter. It is pressed in. It is dead soft metal. Snug the pin up really tight in a knurled vise, Use a plastic (or other) no-mar hammer to tap the mould blocks away from the pin while supporting the blocks with your hand to keep the pin from bending. Alternately, you can grip the pin with vise-grips, heat the block slightly and twist it out. Once the pin (now destroyed) is out, you can use a roll-pin as a replacement. Hope this helps.

    Vise grips work well. If you don't crush too tight the pin can be reused. I grip snugly with the vise grips, get a flat screwdriver and pry the tip up against the vise grip jaws while twisting the pin. Use piece of sheet metal on the blocks to protect the top surface and don't pry with the tip pushing into the face of the blocks or you will be cleaning that up after some inventive speech.

    They usually come right out this way. A little file cleanup on the pin and tap it back in.

    Soak the pin with PB Blaster overnight.
    On the following day, grab it TIGHT with some Vice Grips , It should twist out.

    Try putting a washer over the pin before you clamp down with the Vise-Grips. I realize you are planning on surfacing the top, but the washer should protect the face so you don't need to do too much surfacing. Like Ben said, the pins usually give up the fight pretty quickly.

    The very best penetrating oils is ATF mixed with acetone or MEK. Works well with mineral
    spirits, too, but not quite as good penetration. This beats all commercial products I have
    tried.

    I often use a little water before a penetrating oil, it follows the water. On ferrous metals.
    Mike

    Benefactor Member NRA
    Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
    US Army Vet

    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    sundog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Green Country Oklahoma
    Posts
    3,497
    It is a mould. Cosmetics are of little consequence if pours good boolits.

    Burrs and gouges can be cleaned up with a little judicious filing and stoning.
    It ain't rocket science, it's boolit science.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Baldwin Co, across bay from Mobile, AL
    Posts
    1,126
    Thanks for the replies - I wasn't sure how the pin was put in. I've got the bullet cavity cleaned up nicely now by using 8,000 grit paste on a cast bullet from mold chucked into drill motor. Bullets now drop nicely from mold - almost doesn't even need a light tap with wood stick. Now I've got that part cleaned up, it's casting good bullets and I just might not finish up top. As you say, it's cosmetic only and it does drop easy bullets now.

    Thanks for the detailed info on the pin.

    Ken >

  5. #5
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,833
    Quote Originally Posted by KenH View Post
    Thanks for the replies - I wasn't sure how the pin was put in. I've got the bullet cavity cleaned up nicely now by using 8,000 grit paste on a cast bullet from mold chucked into drill motor. Bullets now drop nicely from mold - almost doesn't even need a light tap with wood stick. Now I've got that part cleaned up, it's casting good bullets and I just might not finish up top. As you say, it's cosmetic only and it does drop easy bullets now.

    Thanks for the detailed info on the pin.

    Ken >
    I acquired a old lyman single cav mold that had some gouges on the top edge of the cavity. I removed all the burrs and then did as you did, Spin a boolit coated with mild abrasive. The mold now casts very well, but the now polished gouges on the top of the cavity do produce fin-like pimples on the boolit base, but it cleans up nicely when sized...but I had the same thoughts as you, of machining the top of that mold...but was a little worried of lightening up that boolit...it's already a light (95gr) for a .314 boolit.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check