Lee PrecisionInline FabricationTitan ReloadingWideners
Graf & SonsMidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2StainLess Steel Media

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 24

Thread: Hensley and Gibbs 3115/331 9mm 10 cavity mold

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy flydad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    53

    Hensley and Gibbs 3115/331 9mm 10 cavity mold

    I recently bought one of these and was wondering if anyone has any experience casting , shooting them? According to what I read Wayne Gibbs changed the drive band in the 80's and called it the 331 .

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s-l1600 (6).jpg 
Views:	31 
Size:	24.1 KB 
ID:	226383Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s-l1600 (4).jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	31.8 KB 
ID:	226384Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s-l1600 (8).jpg 
Views:	35 
Size:	31.7 KB 
ID:	226385

    Flydad
    Flydad

    Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

    ― Leonardo da Vinci

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    nagantguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,363
    No experience but that I one serious looking mold; a fellow could make a whole heap of boolits in short order. Which you almost have to before your wrists give out.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy flydad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    53
    Agreed my #130 6 cavity is a beast also, but worth it for the beautiful boolits it produces.
    Flydad

    Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

    ― Leonardo da Vinci

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    2,730
    A light weight boolit in a big honking piece of iron. Casting will be fast and furious. That hot plate getting started will be your bestis buddy. The payoff is a whole bunch boolits.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    South of the north pole in the land of the falling waters
    Posts
    3,656
    If you guys who like ladle pouring use a casting box to hold the mold it's much easier on the wrists than you would first imagine .

    I used to cast quite a bit using four six cavity molds in tandem not as fast as a machine . Not to bad on the body .

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy flydad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    53
    Thats how I cast for two years. I'm spoiled by the RCBS bottom pour now. I seldom cast more than 300-400 in a session. Then I start powder coating them. Almost as much as casting
    Flydad

    Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

    ― Leonardo da Vinci

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    1,508
    The H&G #331 and the Saeco #115 appear to be basically the same bullet design. Not surprising since the old Saeco & H&G companies worked closely together.

    The powder coated Saeco #115-BB has been my go to bullet for the 9mm since I got back into casting back in 2012. I think if you try 4.6 grains of HP-38 you will be please with the accuracy. 4.9 grains of WSF will give similar results, Ransom Rest <1.5" at 25 yards. Winchester SP primer, case length is 0.750, OAL 1.165, average MV 1139 fps.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    590
    I also have that mold and it will pile them up when used with a Magma dual spout 40 pound pot.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy flydad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    53
    Thanks everyone. When I saw that mold for sale I knew I had to have it. 10 cavity H&G molds in good shape are hard to come by. Thanks for the load data Dragonheart, will be casting some tomorrow and then powder coat them with some of Smoke's powder. I will report back. I will be shooting them out of a Walther PPQ 5 inch barrel, which is very accurate for me already. These big molds will drain a pot in a hurry!
    Flydad

    Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

    ― Leonardo da Vinci

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    1,508
    I get outstanding accuracy out of the PPQ's with this bullet & above loads. The only problem with the H&G 6-10 cavity molds is their weight. That is one massive hunk of steel and by the time I empty a 20 pound pot I definitely need a break.
    I have found that after cutting the sprue having a large lead block set at the front of my bullet drop tray gives me much needed end support for the mold. A light tap of the knuckle bolt on the lead block when opening will allow all the bullets to fall into the tray.
    Since I PC, I let my bullets air cool to avoid any contamination of the bullets. Once cool they go into sealed coffee cans until I coat. Then back into the cans until I size, label & store. Fortunately, I have a friend that drinks a lot of coffee and buys it in small cans. Once powder coated the cans never rust and I use the same color for the can as for the bullet. I can tell what bullet it is by the color.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy flydad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    53
    That is a great system. I use mason jars , pickle jars , etcClick image for larger version. 

Name:	20180822_175629_resized.jpg 
Views:	27 
Size:	32.9 KB 
ID:	226629 a little whimsical I know but I like to see them.
    Flydad

    Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

    ― Leonardo da Vinci

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy flydad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    53
    Any one ever seen a HG 374 or 334 for 40/10mm? They are similar to the hg68 but for 40SW /10mm. Would love to find one. i have never seen one offered.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	HG 332   40sw10mm.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	67.6 KB 
ID:	226630Click image for larger version. 

Name:	hg 374 for 40 sw.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	77.0 KB 
ID:	226631
    Flydad

    Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

    ― Leonardo da Vinci

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy flydad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    53
    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonheart View Post
    I get outstanding accuracy out of the PPQ's with this bullet & above loads. The only problem with the H&G 6-10 cavity molds is their weight. That is one massive hunk of steel and by the time I empty a 20 pound pot I definitely need a break.
    I have found that after cutting the sprue having a large lead block set at the front of my bullet drop tray gives me much needed end support for the mold. A light tap of the knuckle bolt on the lead block when opening will allow all the bullets to fall into the tray.
    Since I PC, I let my bullets air cool to avoid any contamination of the bullets. Once cool they go into sealed coffee cans until I coat. Then back into the cans until I size, label & store. Fortunately, I have a friend that drinks a lot of coffee and buys it in small cans. Once powder coated the cans never rust and I use the same color for the can as for the bullet. I can tell what bullet it is by the color.
    I am going to cast some today and will try the lead block method. You have to use a different technique with these big iron molds. Thank you for describing how you do it. I will be testing some boolits that I cast and pc a couple of days ago. Just happen to have a couple of pounds of hp 38. I will report back.
    Flydad

    Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

    ― Leonardo da Vinci

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,828
    I have an 8 cavity #331. That is my 9mm go to sub machinegun bullet. I shoot it from a S&W 76, Mac 9mm and Uzi. The BEST bullet there is.
    You will produce a TON of bullets. I hope you have a Star sizer!
    Use a mould guide or you will blow your elbow out. Go ahead....ask me how I know!
    Collector and shooter of guns with selector switches and threaded barrels. Collector of suppressors, SBR's, AOW's and SBS's. Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    1,508
    I didn't mention I made a shelf to hold my molds while I pour from my RCBS Pro melt, which take a lot of the load off.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SAM_2086_5.JPG 
Views:	20 
Size:	63.6 KB 
ID:	226662Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SAM_2088_4.JPG 
Views:	19 
Size:	67.2 KB 
ID:	226663

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    1,508
    I too have never seen a #332 or #374, but I don't own anything in 40. I can definitely say the H&G #68 has got to be the most accurate design for the 1911. The 9mm version of the #68 also shoots well.
    I have two each of the 4 cavity bevel base and the plain base H&G #68's as I run two mold simultaneously when I cast. It ups my production and gives the sprue time to set before being cut. As far as I can tell accuracy is the same, but I prefer the BB for PC. Maybe one day when its cooler I will put them in the Ransom Rest for comparison to find out.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy flydad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    53
    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonheart View Post
    I didn't mention I made a shelf to hold my molds while I pour from my RCBS Pro melt, which take a lot of the load off.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SAM_2086_5.JPG 
Views:	20 
Size:	63.6 KB 
ID:	226662Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SAM_2088_4.JPG 
Views:	19 
Size:	67.2 KB 
ID:	226663
    I have been thinking about a shelf since I started started casting with the 6 cavity H& G #130 six cavity. I just thought it was heavy, until I got the 10 cavity 115
    Flydad

    Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

    ― Leonardo da Vinci

  18. #18
    Boolit Master

    RedHawk357Mag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Duncan, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    392
    Casting box...not sure exactly what this is. Google doesn't seem to know either. If you might have a picture or can reference a book that might describe I would be most appreciative. Thank you.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Stanley View Post
    If you guys who like ladle pouring use a casting box to hold the mold it's much easier on the wrists than you would first imagine .

    I used to cast quite a bit using four six cavity molds in tandem not as fast as a machine . Not to bad on the body .

    Jack
    Sent from my P00I using Tapatalk
    Ruger RedHawk 357 Mag 44 Mag GP100 Davidson Exclusive 5" Security Six 2 3/4", Speed Six 4"
    Smith Wesson 629 PP and 686 PP, 617

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    1,508
    The only casting box I have ever heard of was what we used back in my college days to make sand molds for pouring foundry metals, so I am pretty sure this is not what he means.

    I suspect his reference to a casting box is something like I use, which is a metal pan to catch & hold my bullets when they come out of the mold. At the front of the pan I have a large rectangular lead block/brick that stands proud of the lip of my pan. These large and heavy H&G multi-cavity molds have a knuckle bolt at the end of the handles, which lays nicely on top of my lead block and the block carries the majority of the load. After cutting the sprue and opening the mold a light up and down tap of the knuckle bolt on the lead block causes all the bullets to drop in the pan.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master

    RedHawk357Mag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Duncan, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    392
    Thanks for your explanation. I was trying to visualize how a box helps in pouring. But your explanation clears up it's role of after the pour. Seems like there was a Old timey video made by Los Angeles Police department and it had some footage of their trustees making bullets with ten cavity gang moulds. I think they had a box of some sort let me see if I can find it again and I actually did see that.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Ruger RedHawk 357 Mag 44 Mag GP100 Davidson Exclusive 5" Security Six 2 3/4", Speed Six 4"
    Smith Wesson 629 PP and 686 PP, 617

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check