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Thread: AR-15 won't cycle after using cast bullets

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Driver man's Avatar
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    I would think that the primer was in the case when it was reloaded. These things happen
    The Bird of Time has but a little way
    To fly-and Lo! the bird is on the wing

  2. #22
    Boolit Master dkf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hamish View Post
    A couple of the comments in this thread make me want to slap their Momma's.

    I'll keep running cast in my AR's, thank you,,,,,. We know that if you fire unsuitable loads, no matter the action type, crud/leading can occur.
    Same here. Don't tell my ARs they shouldn't shoot cast.

    If you are getting enough lead and lube to stop the gun you have some major problems with your boolits and reloading practices. Probably need a better lube too.

    I only ever blew 2 primers out in an AR and that was working up 5.56 pressure jacketed loads.(wasn't even at max yet) The primers were not crimped in and for those particular loads they should have been. That is why milspec is for crimped primers on 5.56.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    You guys are going to make me try cast in my ruger carbine

  4. #24
    Boolit Master



    Finster101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplebeards View Post
    You guys are going to make me try cast in my ruger carbine
    There is no reason no to. I have a 995 and it eats everything I throw at it. I have two .300 Blackout uppers that get nothing but PC'd cast. Haven't had any issues out of either of them yet.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I'm with Finster.

    All of my hipoint carbines eat cast lead. I've had 2 9mms, .40sw and the .45acp. All rock just fine with cast.

    I have had lead show up in the gas system of my SKS, but never enough that it would not function.

    Being a Yugo SKS it is dead easy to turn the gas off and shoot them single fire, like a straight pull bolt.
    Which I have been known to do. It is also the cheap way, as 4.6 grains of Red Dot below the .314 90 gr TC cast boolit makes a great little SKS plinker round. It just won't cycle the action.

    But better lube and better sized boolits drastically reduced how much lead I saw in the gas system afterwords.

    Was never enough to get me to not shoot lead in it.

    If I can't shoot cast in it, it won't last long at my house.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master hornady308's Avatar
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    the reason I had a blown primer was due to an overpressure situation from the use of converted brass that had not had the necks turned. My chamber is tight and I know that I have to turn every piece of brass if it is from converted 5.56mm. The blown primer came from a case with an FC headstamp. These are well known to have thicker necks when converted to 300 Blackout. I could have avoided the entire situation by using new brass made to 300 Blackout specs, but I am a cheapskate.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master popper's Avatar
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    If you mean the primer ended up in the channel for the bolt pin, I can see that - inside the gas key? Naw. Anyway, I neck turn all my brass, converted or not. Uniforms neck thickness - you wouldn't believe how bad some factory stuff varies. Hand held RCBS rig but put the case in elec drill. Goes pretty fast.
    Whatever!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check