Remington 7600 timney "trigger fix" is it worth it?

[Tripplebeards]

I just received my 7600 special order carbine. The trigger is a bit heavy and has a lot of grinding creep. I removed the trigger group and polished the sear and the metal that engages it that is attached to the trigger. It still has some creep and of of course the heavy pull. I have not tried removing a coil from the spring yet to lighten it but did try a ball point pen spring. The ball point pen spring ended making the trigger feel like there is more travel and grinding feel and of course a light pull. I removed the ball point pen spring and tossed it.

I don't see how the timney quick fix is going to remove all the creep when all it is a replaceable sear with a few different springs. I would assume all its going to do is lighten the pull and not remove the creep? I'm probably better off going to the hardware store and pickicking up some lighter springs to try?

I did not stone the hammer as per recommend by my smith. I did polish it with my Dremil tool with a little buffer head and some mothers polish. I don't think it helped much.

Anyone have any success with the $90/$100 timney quick fix? I'm having a hard time spending this amount of money for a five cent piece of metal and a couple fifty cent springs.

Has anyone had luck polishing the sear, hammer, trigger group, and using a local hardware store spring with any luck of removing all its creep? It think it's just a a bad design and going to have some creep no matter what I do.

[BK7saum]

I'm not familiar with the timney sear for the 7600, but a timney sear in a ruger 77 had a shallower hook and reduced creep. The timney sear for the 7600 may be the same. Some replacement sears have a set screw that can adjust the sear engagement which causes "creep" if the engagement is excessive.

[Tripplebeards]

There is an adjustment screw on the sear but it only adjusts spring tension.

[BK7saum]

I think that the timney would probably resolve some of the creep, but a good trigger job on your action would probably get you where you wanted regarding creep and pull weight.

[trapper9260]

Is it a newer 7600? I have one that I got back in the mid 80's and was not hardly used and not have any problems with it.Just to give you a idea

[Tripplebeards]

Yes brand new 2018 special run. I have a 1984,7600 06' I've had since new and the trigger is a world of difference better on the old model. It's not the sear/ hammer release that's the travel and grind is comming from. It's the piece of metal attached to the actual trigger that engages the sear. No matter how much I polish it it still dose not have a firm hook up to the sear before grabbing and slides across it before giving a solid lock up to fire the gun.

[Tripplebeards]

Can't believe no one has tried one. I guess you can use the timney in the 870's as well.

[Texas by God]

A trigger shoe might help the feeling of the trigger. Will your trigger group from your earlier 7600 fit your newer model? If so a complete trigger group might cost less than the timney. Just some random thoughts for you. By the way what caliber is your new rifle? The 760 series usually tend to be quite accurate guns.

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[Tripplebeards]

35 whelen carbine. Was a special order from Grice's gun shop.

[Tripplebeards]

I think I'm going to make a trip to the hard ware store and pick up a few springs and I'll probably remove a coil or two from the factory spring as well. If I don't like it maybe I'll blow a $90 on a ten cent piece of metal and fifty cent worth of springs that have timney stamped on them. I'm going to tinker a little more on factory sear and polish it again along with the hammer. I'm waiting on my third replacement stock set from numerics. The first two boxes were damaged in transportation causing the stock and pump to bang together. Chips and dents in the clear coat of the laminate. I also ordered a low DNZ scope mount. Hopefully it's the correct size for the Nikon pro staff 5 2.5x10 40mm to clear. I'm leaving the sights on the barrel. I wanted to try a "non" see through mount this time around. Both my other 7600 have see throughs on them and I have an extra set laying around to try as well. I've been using see throughs since the early eighties and only had to use them twice. Once I dropped my gun in the snow and the other time my optic decided to become unsighted in. I wounded a deer because of it, tracked it down and finished off with opens. I'll probably feel a little uneasy with non see through sights until I get use to not looking through to my opens...that I rarely do anyways. I think it will look better with regular scope mounts and probably a lot more durable with the DNZ as well.

[Texas by God]

I hear you but a good trigger is a joy forever. My bolt guns average 2# and when I shoot anything else it is VERY noticable.

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[Tripplebeards]

I got it!!! Did it myself for seventy nine cents. I bought three diffent springs today at the local hardware store. A light, medium, and heavy spring comparable to the factory spring. I cut two lengths of each. One the same length and one a hair longer than the factory spring. I tried the lightest spring both lengths. Way to light and the spring was so flimsy it buckled and came out when firing. I tossed that one. Then I tried the medium weight spring the same length as the factory spring. If felt good almost too light. I could see where most of my creep was comming from while trying this spring. It was the extreme angle of the sear where it was mated with the hammer. It had a lot of travel and was rough even after polishing and I could feel it grind when pulling the trigger. I didn't want to mess with the hammer and figured I'd give it a go on the sear and worse case senario if I wreck it I'd be ordering a timney to replace it. I ran the sharp edge where the sear engages with the hammer accross my knife sharpening stone a good 30-40 times till I knocked off some of sharp edge. I'd say I removed maybe a millimeter or two. I then sanded the inside of the sear where it mates with the hammer using 220 grit and then 600 grit sandpaper. It felt pretty smooth. I polished it to a mirror finish with my Dremil and some mothers polish. I reassembled it with the middle weight shorter spring and tested again. It consistently gave a smooth, crisp brake at only 26 0z! I love a light trigger but that was too light for my taste for me in this rifle...If it was in one of my bolt predator and varmint rifles, yes. I removed the shorter middle weight spring and installed the same medium weight spring that I cut a hair longer that had about 2 more coils on it. It broke beautiful and consistent at 34oz every time with the longer spring! The only travel I was now feeling was right off the bat when I would touch the trigger at the start of the pull. I took care of that as well. The travel I was feeling was being caused from where the trigger rested against the trigger pin plate bushing. I ended up making a schim out of an aluminum Sprite can and wrapped it around the the outside of the bushing making what looked like a coil. You can see the green reflective shine from the Sprite logo if you look hard enough in the photo below. The aluminum schim pushed the trigger forward just enough to remove all the starting "slop" out of the trigger and without starting to engage the sear. It was just enough to still keep the sear engagement flush with the hammer. I made some thicker schims I discarded that were too thick causing some premature travel between the sear and hammer...I could tell this being I could see light between the two mating surfaces. It's now a crisp 2lb 2 oz trigger with no travel or slop! My RCBS trigger scale I received from pay it forward is comming in handy. I kept my thumb in front of the hammer and tested it a good 100 plus times to make sure the spring stayed in place and everything stayed consistent. I did bend the end coils on each side a little smaller in diameter so the coil would crawl and grab the sear better keeping it in place.



I would have been happy with it being a little heavier, closer to 2.5 lbs but I'm calling good. I did put a dab of the aluminum JB weld on where the aluminum pop can schim I made overlapped itself to make sure it doesn't unravel or come apart.

Pretty proud of my job. Didn't think I'd get the travel and slop out of it but after sitting down and studying how it worked I figured it out and saved $90 in the process and believe I probably have a better, crisper trigger in the outcome.

I'm might have to do my 06' and 35 rem 7600 triggers now. My 06' 7600 shot a .448" with 180 gr core loct reloads at a 100 yards last year testing. I think that 34 year old trigger has worn itself light enough that I might not mess with it.

[Texas by God]

If I get a 760/7600 I know how to fix the trigger now. Good work and explanation!

[BK7saum]

Tripplebeards, great job. This is not just for you, but in general to someone contemplating trigger mods. You have to be careful and not change the sear angle to a dangerous negative sear engagement if you stone the sear surface. If you shorten the sear hook and keep the angle, you remove the creep and keep the correct geometry. If you shortened the seat "ledge", good job. Regardless it is good to do a "bump" test by hitting the buttstock on a thick piece of leather on a block of wood any time you do trigger mods. The inertia of the buttstock slamming downward on the leather block will reveal inadequate sear engagement and/or too weak spring tension.

Great job. You were looking to spend $90 anyway. By undertaking the project, you fixed the problem. A screwup would've put you in the same boat.

First rule of gunsmithing. Work on the cheapest and easily available parts first. LOL.

[Tripplebeards]

Yes, just the ledge. One of my best friends is a smith. I got "the lecture" after I was all done and removed just the ledge of the sear...and he said the same that I did it correct. Good thing I trusted my judgement and used common sense when I was examining it trying to figure out how the sun and moon collide. I figured as long as I didn't change the angle and shortened the ledge just a hair and polishing it mirror smooth...life would be good in trigger world. If I were building a bench pump...lol, that shorter medium spring would be the ticket.

[nagantguy]

Gotta love a happy ending. That’s some real thinking and testing to get what you wanted on the cheap nicely done sir!

[Tripplebeards]

Update:

I never tested the safety and found out it would not engage after installing the schim. I had to remove it in order for the safety to function.

So the trigger now does have a little travel with the schim removed. It's not that noticeable unless you were on a bench doing a slow squeeze. I'm sure I could remove the trigger group again and find what part of the trigger system lines up with the safety and remove part of the metal so it's not blocking it from engaging but I'm going to pass on it and use it the way it is for now.

I must have repositioned the lighter coil spring After taking the trigger group out and removing the spring to take out the schim being it now brakes at 28oz. It's a hair lighter than I'd like but I'll roll with it for now. I might go buy another spring and cut it a couple coils longer.

I dropped the butt of my rifle on a hard wood floor a good 15 plus times, hit the butt with my hand a good dozen times and then proceeded with a rubber mallet a good dozen times. It's safe and ready to go!

[Tripplebeards]

Swear I'm done now.lol

I bought another spring today and trimmed it with an extra coil or so on it. The travel increased with the longer spring and it brakes at 32oz. Kind of feels like a AR two stage trigger. There isn't a lot of travel and it stops at the 2lb wall with a pretty crisp brake.

My "2006" limited run black laminate Stock set number three arrived from numerics today. Took three tries and this box wasn't damaged. The stock had a few scratches and scrapes on the edge of the buttstock. I buffed about 99% of it out. I'll call this set good since they're 12 year old stock set that's been collecting dust on numerics shelf. I was all excited to put them on and discovered my synthetic stock bolt is 2" longer. I ordered the correct bolt from numerics. I guess I can wait a few more days.