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Thread: Getting the lead out!

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
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    Getting the lead out!

    I started this thread because I didn't want to chat up the Hi-Tek thread with off topic chatter, one of the members posted asking for advice on lead removal, if you want to read the few posts on the topic there start at this post #10465 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post4436986 Feel free to jump in and share what's worked for you!

    OK, to continue from over there;
    Here's another inexpensive option you can try first (before jumping to the Lewis Lead Remover mentioned before in the other thread), I used this trick before getting the Lewis Remover, wrapping Chore Boy around a brush works but take longer and more effort, in my experience anyways. This first video below shows a really leaded bore, I would have used a Foam Remover overnight first then use the Lewis or Chore Boy (https://www.amazon.com/Gunslick-9209.../dp/B000U3Z5TI ). One more thing I will add, I use a inexpensive clamp on table vise from Harbor Freight to hold my barrel or gun. I use a thick piece of leather on the jaws that clamp to the table to protect it and another piece in the vise jaws to protect the gun or barrel, this one. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-...ise-97160.html
    With a 20% off coupon it's a bargain, you can find a 20% off coupon (good in store or online) in the new hunting regulations booklet from the NYS Dec website, on page 5 of the PDF file, there is a bunch of other coupons also, all good until the end of June next year, here a link to that PDF file http://www.dec.ny.gov/docs/wildlife_pdf/15huntguide.pdf

    Here's the Chore Boy video



    And here is a good video showing close up shots using the Lewis Remover, you can see good closeup shots of the lead pulled from the bore. I would have removed the screen after each pass and flexed it to clean the screen, it will work better if you do. I also think if he vised the barrel so he could have tighten the screen patch more he would have had better results, these soft patches will NOT harm the bore. I wish this guy had shown the bore before he started, that must have also been badly leaded, I've never had that much trouble getting the bore spotless. Again, if I had heavy leading, I would use the foam first then use the Lewis, why make life any harder then it needs to be?

    Be careful what you wish for!

  2. #2
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

    waksupi's Avatar
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    Cheapest and easiest way is to shoot the right diameter bullet, proper alloy hardness, good lube. Then you don't have leading to deal with.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Cheapest and easiest way is to shoot the right diameter bullet, proper alloy hardness, good lube. Then you don't have leading to deal with.
    Agreed 100%, but if you shoot cast, sooner or later you'll have to deal with lead in the bore.
    Be careful what you wish for!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    Hmmm... supposed to use copper wool.... whoops. They said chore boy and i got steel wool. Guess we grew up around different chore boy. Meh worked just fine though. I mostly use a bore snake.
    "Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
    ~Theodore Roosevelt~

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I have never had a leading problem with my bullets. but fire one box of factory lead bullets and you have leading.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Chore Boy is currently copper plated steel I wouldn't use

    https://www.domyown.com/stuffit-copper-mesh-p-1463.html

    Must be pure copper so it won't scratch the bore. Other sources but make sure they are pure copper. afish4570

  7. #7
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    Go down to a real hardware store and get some fine brass screen one sheet will last you for many years wrap a small piece around an oversize bore brush and voila no mo lead.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Ateam's Avatar
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    If I have bad leading, I will soak the bore with kroil overnight, then drive an oversized boolit down (like you are slugging). It usually drives out all the lead, repeat if necessary.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy wbrco's Avatar
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    To find a real ChoreBoy, try your local quicky mart. The people who indulge in "experimental recreation" like it for their "delivery systems".

    Not your typical thought for finding some.

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
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    I checked the ChoreBoy I've had for 15-20 years and it doesn't attract to a magnet, no steel in it, easy quick test. But I wouldn't go back to using it, the Lewis Remover is far better, not that I need it anymore these days but never know when it might come in handy.
    Be careful what you wish for!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    I've kept ChoreBoy in my cleaning box for years. I don't use it very often but when I do get some leading in cylinder throats or forcing cones of my revolvers, it's cleans it up in nothing flat.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    Go to the Dollar Store. They have copper scrubber that is about the same as chore boy. and it is about a 1.00$ I checked it with a magnet, it's good.
    Ole Jack
    "'Necesity' is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of Tyrants: it is the creed of slaves."
    William Pitt, 1783
    "America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we faulter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." Abraham Lincoln.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Not to resurrect an old thread, but I got some brass pipe screens from Amazon. Use these with a Tipton brass jag for the first pass to set the screen into a cup shape. I used 2 patches to enlarge the diameter a little. Works great!! The screens are 3/4" in dia. and are cheap, like 150 for 6.00.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master BigEyeBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silverboolit View Post
    Not to resurrect an old thread, but I got some brass pipe screens from Amazon. Use these with a Tipton brass jag for the first pass to set the screen into a cup shape. I used 2 patches to enlarge the diameter a little. Works great!! The screens are 3/4" in dia. and are cheap, like 150 for 6.00.
    Had a look on the EEEEBay , for Choreboy , they are not available here in AU at the normal store but are on AU EEEEBay , but I see brass Choreboy as well as copper .Might get some ,they would be good for getting rust of exterior metal surfaces with out destroying the blueing .

  15. #15
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    exactly what do you have to do to get that kind of leading ? i have never needed more than a bronze brush.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEyeBob View Post
    Had a look on the EEEEBay , for Choreboy , they are not available here in AU at the normal store but are on AU EEEEBay , but I see brass Choreboy as well as copper .Might get some ,they would be good for getting rust of exterior metal surfaces with out destroying the blueing .
    Brass will work just as well.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    If in a 30ca., just get some of the hornady half jacket bullets. They do an excellent job.
    Whatever!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check