Titan ReloadingRotoMetals2Load DataLee Precision
Inline FabricationRepackboxMidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading Everything
Wideners
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 46

Thread: Best way to clean TC New Englander

  1. #21
    Boolit Master arcticap's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    585
    Sometimes material can come off of thick pipe cleaners so one must be careful to not clog the flash channel that way.

    I still use them anyway with some guns, but I'll also use bare copper wire along with some patch material.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    I am always sure to hit it with the air gun to dry things out, that should clear any other little bits. I wouldn't have air if I was field cleaning, but I wouldn't use pipe cleaners either. I'm always afraid to loose patches down in the gun. Again, air usually blows them out, but I had one heck of a time once trying to fish one out. Not fun.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SE Ohio
    Posts
    2,361
    The reason I've never got the Black Powder bug. There is only one way sure, water and soap. I like
    boiling water, it dryers fast. Put breech end in bucket and pump it until water comes out clear. Make sure there is no water hiding under places like tenon on TC. I have 2 T/C Hawkens bought
    when they were first out. Only bought for ML deer season. At the end of season I take them clear
    apart. Lock, Stock and barrel. Clean it until you can eat of it, then oil bore and hope you shoot
    your deer in gun season next year. That way you don't have to dirty a Muzzel loader.

    I always freaked out about cleaning guns with water until I went in service. We had to take rifles
    into shower with us. They had cleaning station set up in the Head and water was so hot you could
    watch it evaporate off rifle.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

    FLINTNFIRE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Longview, Washington
    Posts
    1,654
    I have had a new englander since early 90s so has my father and a uncle , have shot black powder since the mid 70s hot water soap rinse with hot run dry patches down then oily patches simple same all the time no rust no problems

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,702
    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    I am always sure to hit it with the air gun to dry things out, that should clear any other little bits. I wouldn't have air if I was field cleaning, but I wouldn't use pipe cleaners either. I'm always afraid to loose patches down in the gun. Again, air usually blows them out, but I had one heck of a time once trying to fish one out. Not fun.
    Get a decent jag ya wont lose patches - just in case go in Cabellas or someplace and buy a patch screw fitting that fits yr ramrod thread - just a few bucks .

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,702
    Quote Originally Posted by Drm50 View Post
    The reason I've never got the Black Powder bug. There is only one way sure, water and soap. I like
    boiling water, it dryers fast. Put breech end in bucket and pump it until water comes out clear. Make sure there is no water hiding under places like tenon on TC. I have 2 T/C Hawkens bought
    when they were first out. Only bought for ML deer season. At the end of season I take them clear
    apart. Lock, Stock and barrel. Clean it until you can eat of it, then oil bore and hope you shoot
    your deer in gun season next year. That way you don't have to dirty a Muzzel loader.

    I always freaked out about cleaning guns with water until I went in service. We had to take rifles
    into shower with us. They had cleaning station set up in the Head and water was so hot you could
    watch it evaporate off rifle.
    ohhhhh man !!! it aint that hard -----really !!!! cleaning one of these is easy

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    It's not that hard, but it's not that fun. Plus the whole thing with hunting. You can either leave it loaded and cross your fingers, shoot it and swab your bore like normal and hope rust doesn't become a problem, or shoot it and clean it, which you have to sight in to an oiled bore. I generally shoot and swab, but I can not remember muzzle loader hunting more than 3 days in a row before.
    Last edited by megasupermagnum; 08-19-2018 at 06:06 PM.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,283
    megasupermagnm -- I use Windex first because it is water based. Whatever you use, you HAVE to use a water based / plain water to first clean the gun. It breaks down & neutralizes the corrosive elements. Nothing else will do. First clean with something water and follow up with your cleaners / oils etc. A great cleaning with anything else won't do.

    725

  9. #29
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

    waksupi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Somers, Montana, a quaint little drinking village,with a severe hunting and fishing problem.
    Posts
    19,340
    The nipple should be removed no more than once a year for inspection and relubrication. Repeatedly removing it wears the threads, and will eventually cause dangerous failure.
    Plain old luke warm water is all you need to clean with. Hot water causes flash rusting, and will actually set fouling a bit harder, taking more time to clean. Dry barrel with pieces of paper towel, then use a good oil in the bore.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  10. #30
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    1,423
    Quote Originally Posted by triggerhappy243 View Post
    If the barrel can be removed from the stock, put the breech end in a pot of boiling hot water squirt some dawn dish liquid in the barrel and scrub the beegeeses out of it. Then with the jag on the cleaning rod, pump the rod in and out with a patch on the jag, scrubbing aggressively. Rinse with hot water in the same fashion. Dry cotton flannel patches to dry the bore out while the barrel is still burning hot. Use the bore preservative of your choice. Sorry bout the caps, key is stuck.
    Good advise right up to hot water(NOT) you get flash rust every time ,cold works just fine ! It"s really not complicated /Ed

  11. #31
    Banned


    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    NJ via TX
    Posts
    3,876
    what Ed said, NO hot water.

    i'll go a step further - tepid water only and NO soap or other cr@p. there is no need to add chemicals of any kind other than H2O down the tube. plug the ignition hole and let the water stand in the bbl.

    cleanup will always be easier/easiest if you do some aforethought thinking and prepping. after shooting at the range or afield, and ya know it'll be some time before proper cleaning can be accomplished, clear the chamber (fire the load or pull it) and run a patch down the tube that's sloppy wet with some water mixed with water soluble oil ("moose milk" = water and some ballistol or NAPA). i leave the rod and wet patch in the barrel. i keep a 1:6 mix of ballistol:water in a small spray bottle and besides using it to wet the patch i spritz the lock and it's related ignition device (flint or percussion). this will keep the bp residue soft in those components 'til yer back at the ranch and can do a proper cleaning ASAP. this is all a good routine to get into and saves a heckuva lotta future issues and work. has done so for me for well over 5 decades. ymmv.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,702
    Well !! Thats four of us in a row agree on the flash rusting from hot water - been there done that years ago and didnt like it at all. Room temperature water in Aus is probably "tepid" for you fellers that live where it gets cold. Something else going on here too I reckon (cant prove it tho) with cold, no detergent cleaning I think we get a certtain amount of seasoning of the bore from the residue of oils / grease in our lube - hot water and /or detergent strips all that out and we back to bare unseasoned metal that needs more protection.
    I wanna disagree with Waksupi on wearing the threads out from removing the nipple - we both been doin this a long time - I dont reckon you will wear the threads out BUT if you in the habit (most blokes are) of screwing it down tight each time then maybe over time you stretch the threads so they cause a problem - two fingers on the nipple wrench when doing it up is plenty - finger and thumb is enough .

    While we on the subject of nipples I'll digress for a bit - we had a walker colt here (sons repro gun) it had had the wrong nipples fitted - or had been tapped out to wrong size - either way a set of 12x28 nipples were where 1/4x 28 should have fitted - there was erosion most of the way along the threads of the nipples - they were screwed in tight but clearance in the threads - it takes a keen eye or good measuring gear to spot the difference --same thing can get you with 32 thread stuff (this is a special doozie for Aussies) there is 10x32 unc , 3/16th whitworth, and M5x 0.8, all in the same space and a tad bit different diameters - common confusion with cleaning gear is 10x32 and 8x32 - more than one cleaning brush stuck down a muzzle loader because of that!!!

  13. #33
    Banned


    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    NJ via TX
    Posts
    3,876
    *IF* there is a need to remove threaded barrel components, it's best to have first properly lubed component threads. actually, grease is the way to go, not an oil lube. building a gun from scratch or kit, or acquiring a new pre-built gun, i make sure that the breech, touch hole or bolster & nipple, lock and trigger screws, etc, are greased with "nikal" - trade name for an extreme high temp grease that's sparingly applied. using that goop makes component removal - specially those that have been compromised with bp residue, and they ALL will get compromised sooner than later - and all become an easy removal.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,702
    Quote Originally Posted by rfd View Post
    *IF* there is a need to remove threaded barrel components, it's best to have first properly lubed component threads. actually, grease is the way to go, not an oil lube. building a gun from scratch or kit, or acquiring a new pre-built gun, i make sure that the breech, touch hole or bolster & nipple, lock and trigger screws, etc, are greased with "nikal" - trade name for an extreme high temp grease that's sparingly applied. using that goop makes component removal - specially those that have been compromised with bp residue, and they ALL will get compromised sooner than later - and all become an easy removal.
    Lil dab of never seize works for me

  15. #35
    Banned


    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    NJ via TX
    Posts
    3,876
    it's all good, IJ! Click image for larger version. 

Name:	thumbsup.gif 
Views:	117 
Size:	139 Bytes 
ID:	225688

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    1,780
    Cleaning a barrel and stock exterior.
    Just a suggestion.
    Smell of products used for the cleaning & lubrication purpose is a important factor to be aware of. Especially if intending to take that firearm afield {big game} hunting. A nasty smelling firearm toted is little different than a nasty smelling hunter.
    The only purpose I found for Mrs. Murphy soap other than for a laundry room purpose . ~~~none!
    I myself prefer the use of unscented Dawn Detergent soap for my barrels cleaning. Stock & as a exterior bluing conditioner. Tracks: Trapper's Mink Oil patching grease for that purpose.

    As for plunging water temperature. Hotter the better. A heated barrel drys out quicker with less dry swabbing being required. And since I used a unscented patch lube for my barrels bore lubricator. My experience. A heated barrel helps to disperse my bore lube more evenly. How ever I do respect everyone's way of doing to a point. i.e. The use of smokeless powder removers is wrong for a bore fouled from Black Powder use.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,702
    Quote Originally Posted by OverMax View Post
    Cleaning a barrel and stock exterior.
    Just a suggestion.
    Smell of products used for the cleaning & lubrication purpose is a important factor to be aware of. Especially if intending to take that firearm afield {big game} hunting. A nasty smelling firearm toted is little different than a nasty smelling hunter.
    The only purpose I found for Mrs. Murphy soap other than for a laundry room purpose . ~~~none!
    I myself prefer the use of unscented Dawn Detergent soap for my barrels cleaning. Stock & as a exterior bluing conditioner. Tracks: Trapper's Mink Oil patching grease for that purpose.

    As for plunging water temperature. Hotter the better. A heated barrel drys out quicker with less dry swabbing being required. And since I used a unscented patch lube for my barrels bore lubricator. My experience. A heated barrel helps to disperse my bore lube more evenly. How ever I do respect everyone's way of doing to a point. i.e. The use of smokeless powder removers is wrong for a bore fouled from Black Powder use.
    Two differences of opinion here (and opinion is all it is either way)
    1)Just curious what part of black powder residue you need dishwash for ? powder residue comes away fine with water in my guns
    2) hot water - been there done it - by time I get a dry patch on the jag and down bore it comes out red with flash rust. Dont like that - maybe different barrel steels behave different but I am happy to trade the slower dry out for no rust .

  18. #38
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    North central Ohio/Roane County, W.Va.
    Posts
    1,426
    I wonder what I'm doing different? In all my years of shooting blackpowder and cleaning with hot water, I have never had the slightest bit of rusting. I am aware that steel, heated will attract moisture and rust is on it's way. Perhaps it has something to do with mass, my machine tools will rust before my very eyes if the dehumidifier poops out. I'm pretty pathological about my muzzleloaders too. I guess I'm making this into a conundrum.
    “Let us endeavor so to live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry.”
    ― Mark Twain
    W8SOB

  19. #39
    Banned


    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    NJ via TX
    Posts
    3,876
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	deadhorse.gif 
Views:	108 
Size:	3.0 KB 
ID:	225723

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,702
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Michel View Post
    I wonder what I'm doing different? In all my years of shooting blackpowder and cleaning with hot water, I have never had the slightest bit of rusting. I am aware that steel, heated will attract moisture and rust is on it's way. Perhaps it has something to do with mass, my machine tools will rust before my very eyes if the dehumidifier poops out. I'm pretty pathological about my muzzleloaders too. I guess I'm making this into a conundrum.
    What do you use for lube ? maybe thats the difference ? I shoot moose milk in my mloaders and thats where I got the red patches - at home I blow em out with the air compressor to dry before I oil em and again to clear the oil before I shoot - just clean everything with room temperature water now - the cartridge guns are so easy its funny to read guys dodging blackpowder because of the cleaning hassle - ahh I only ever shot proper blackpowder too - think those subs take a lot more effort to clean.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check