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Thread: Repairing a broken shotgun receiver tang

  1. #21
    Boolit Master




    EMC45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lefty o View Post
    you noticed the color difference too. id suspect someone has worked on that tang before.
    There is a color difference in the metal and there is heat discoloration as well. The seam or crack has the remnants of brass braising rod on either side of joint as well.
    You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Brass is poison to a weld......so i would braze again with cupro nickel filler rod.....very high strength,and fills a gap rather than requiring close fits.....The casting is very likely ductile(SG) iron....if melted ,the iron is made very brittle,and cannot be restored....Also use a scaling powder as flux,SG iron usually is a lot better with the agessive flux....Incidentally, silver color nickel coins are cupronickel,so you get an idea how hard and tough it is......same alloy,but I cant recommend using a coin as filler ,its illegal to deface a coin.

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub
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    Well, I decided to have it TIG welded. I took it to the guy who had TIG welded my lathe bed. He warned me that it might have some small pits in it, due to the contamination of the metal. But he did a great job, and I'm very happy with how it turned out.
    Here it is:Click image for larger version. 

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    This is how I received it. He did the grinding and polishing, too.
    Thanks to everyone here for their help.
    Rick

  4. #24
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Very nice...that turned out great....now for a few test fires ...I love seeing finished work like this. You had the right guy do it for sure.

    redhawk

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  5. #25
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    That looks great! Now get that old Stevens back in action. The birds are waiting....

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  6. #26
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    I would say he did a great job!

    Nicely done.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub Steppenwolf's Avatar
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    Wow he did a great job.

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    High nickel content always makes for the best surface to refinish, and it's plenty strong considering where the break is.
    I do a lot of silver soldering, and it has limitations, with this fix I think you went the correct direction.
    It looks really good!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check