Not so much getting shiny boolits as not wanting to wait so long for the sprue to harden.
Going at a fast rate will cause the hardening process to take longer and longer to where you are spending too much time waiting for the sprue to harden. Using a damp towel to cool the mold or a fan helps keep the mold cool enough that you don't have to wait too long.
There is a balance there that only experience will teach you.
You can actually, get the mold too hot. The boolits will come out extremely frosted and undersize. Possibly even misshaped. You haven't gotten to that point yet. When it happens, you have to wait a long time(15-30 seconds) for the sprue to harden enough to cut well.
At a point early on in my learning curve, I used to heat my mold up on top of a stove. Sometimes it would get hot enough that the lead would take a very long time to set up. Invariably, the boolits from that first cast were unusable. Extremely frosted and undersize. I would then need to wait for a bit to let the mold cool to proper casting temperature.
Now I simply put the mold on the top of the casting pot and run the first three or four sets into the scrap to get the mold heat where it needs to be. It doesn't take long and avoids the over heating at the beginning.
That's the best part of casting. When you make mistakes, you just put them back in the pot and start over.
OK, thanks tazman. Lots of good tips. I have heard of people using a hotplate to preheat their molds but I just dipped the corner of the mold in the melted lead until the lead didn't stick to it when I pulled it out. I still had to run three or four sets until they started coming out decent, and threw them back in the pot with the sprues. It is nice that my mistakes don't get wasted. Makes it easy to experiment as I get more experience.
I find casting large amts. of pistol boolits with a ladle causes my elbow and wrist some discomfort for several days after the session. With a 6 cav. mold and a bottom pour I can do 2 or 3K and feel ok. Seems less wear on the old body. I action pistol shoot and decent quality and lots of quantity
is what it is about. My quality is pretty good and culls are low for the amount of the batch....happier with my system. I find cool weather is better because of the clothing worn for safety is more comfortable and less chance of omitting safe clothes for more creature comfort. afish4580
When I get a rhythm going, I find that if I set the mold down on a block of old scrap lead, it acts as a heat sink and cools the mold fairly quickly. More than a damp towel. Makes for some dang fast casting. The sprue dimple pops in there right away. If the heat sink warms up overly much, I have a couple of lead blocks that go into the rotation.
--Wag--
"Great genius will always encounter fierce opposition from mediocre minds." --Albert Einstein.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |