My First Cast Bullets

[DaveTNC]

After years of lurking here and on other sites and reading about casting and watching videos about casting I finally decided to try it. I picked up a small Lee Melter, Lee Ladle, and a couple of 2-cavity Lee molds from Titan Reloading, and some range lead ingots from a seller here.

Today was the day. Started up the pot with a couple of pounds of lead in it and cleaned and smoked the new molds. After the lead was melted I turned the pot down to "6" . Skimmed the little bit of junk off the top and laid the ladle in the molten lead and the mold on the rim of the pot for a few minutes. After several casts of wrinkled and not filled out ones I turned up the pot to "6.5", and they started looking better, but the tumble lube grooves weren't being formed good. So I went to "7" and finally started getting some that at least looked like they were close to right.

But they still don't look completely right to me. Some of the grooves look frosted, but not fully formed.

The biggest issue I had, other than getting the temperature adjusted, is that the little Lee Ladle sucks. it doesn't really pour out of the little spout formed into the side of it, and only held about 1-1/2 bullets worth of lead. I started using a dip for each cavity. I need a real casting ladle or eventually I may get a bottom pour pot.

These vary in weight from 158.6 to 159.5 grains. As for diameter, the best I can tell using my cheapie Harbor Freight calipers is that most are right at .3585, with a couple each at .3575, .358, and .359.

Here's the picture of the one's I kept. Any hints, tips, comments, or criticism are welcome.

[tazman]

The ones in the picture look good to me. I would shoot them.
Getting your mold up to heat is always an issue and causes wrinkles and boolits that don't fill out correctly. Lightly frosted boolits are not a problem.
IF you read the Lee instructions, it told you to heat the mold by holding part of it in the molten lead for a few seconds to heat the mold up. This works and can be fine tuned by experimenting. For me, 30 seconds works well with double cavity molds. If using 6 cavity molds, you can hold it in longer. Make sure you keep the mold blocks closed as you do this.
As far as temp controls on the pot, I set mine at full temp and turn it down as the mold continues to heat up. Each pot and mold combination seems to vary a bit as to what temp setting works best.
Keeping the mixture a little too hot for fastest casting just costs you a little time waiting for the sprue to cool. It won't hurt anything as far as the boolits are concerned.
When casting with a dipper, I use an old Lyman dipper that holds enough for several of those boolits you are making.

[DaveTNC]

Thanks, Tazman. I'll try dipping the mold next time. I remember reading that in the instructions, but I see so many people just lay the molds on the pot that I tried that first.

As slow as I am right now, I don't think I'll have a problem with the sprue getting too hot. As a matter of fact, I was told that it looked like the bases weren't filled out good because my sprue may be too cool. I might turn the temperature up some next time. A new ladle may help that, too.

I'm getting the idea that my mold just wasn't quite as hot as it should have been.

Dave

[RayinNH]

Dave those look fine. I've read on more than one occasion from Mike Venturino (who does show up here once in a while) that flaws in handgun bullets doesn't amount to spit for plinking purposes, you know tin cans, plates or dueling tree. That does not suggest that you shouldn't try for good castings though but that an occasional raisin doesn't have to be thrown back.

Not knowing what that lead is as far as makeup, sometimes a bit of tin added can help with fill out with those tiny tumble lube grooves.

That bullet is a very good shooter in .38 specials. I've never tried it in the .357 though. Good luck.

[RU shooter]

Them ones look ok to me ! Not perfect but at accuracy at plinking distance I doubt anyone be able to tell the difference . Yep the Lee ladle is pretty sad . Find yourself a Lyman ladle . You'll get better at this just keep going at it .

[tazman]

Thanks, Tazman. I'll try dipping the mold next time. I remember reading that in the instructions, but I see so many people just lay the molds on the pot that I tried that first.

As slow as I am right now, I don't think I'll have a problem with the sprue getting too hot. As a matter of fact, I was told that it looked like the bases weren't filled out good because my sprue may be too cool. I might turn the temperature up some next time. A new ladle may help that, too.

I'm getting the idea that my mold just wasn't quite as hot as it should have been.

Dave

The bases on those are fine. They are designed with a slight bevel on the base. No problems there at all. Look at the picture on the Lee website for that boolit.
https://leeprecision.com/6-cavity-tl358-158swc.html

[Tripplebeards]

I'd shoot them. Next time try bumping the heat up one number and get the mold a little hotter. The bases will have nice sharp edges. Nice job. All you have to do is place a $21 order to smoke fir a pound of powder and som bb's then head over to the $1 store and buy somtupperware to tumble.

[upnorthwis]

I recommend a casting thermometer as your next purchase. Just because the lead is melted doesn't mean it's hot enough. I don't even start casting till it's 750.

[Tom W.]

I have one TL bullet mold, an old Ranch Dog 165 gr. I use it for my 30/30 and 30-06 A.I. for plinking and fire forming.
Those bullets look fine, and as stated earlier, a paper target or metal plate ain't gonna complain about a little wrinkle. If your bases are good, they'll shoot.
There's a lot of different tumble lubes out there, Check with White Label Lubes for some 45-45-10. I use plain old JPW for a tumble lube and it is just great. I don't like Lee LLA, but from what I've read about the 45-45-10 it's supposed to be the best stuff since sliced bread... Ask Glen @ WLL for his suggestions. He's very knowledgeable about his craft.

[John McCorkle]

Well done, and congratulations!

Glad you took the plunge and started casting. Those pills look fine and I'd send them right along their way.

With aluminum molds (like Lee) the pace you cast at also makes a difference in your mold temp. Mold temp is what matters most...you can have super hot lead and a cold mold and get poor bullets but a hot mold is hard to beat...casting at a pace that keeps this mold temp higher takes time when learning the rhythm and mechanics so that it's axiomatic...but once you get it down, it's a great feeling.

Good luck and don't get frustrated...you're doing great so far

Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk

[DaveTNC]

Thanks for all the replies...

Dave those look fine. I've read on more than one occasion from Mike Venturino (who does show up here once in a while) that flaws in handgun bullets doesn't amount to spit for plinking purposes, you know tin cans, plates or dueling tree. That does not suggest that you shouldn't try for good castings though but that an occasional raisin doesn't have to be thrown back.

Not knowing what that lead is as far as makeup, sometimes a bit of tin added can help with fill out with those tiny tumble lube grooves.

That bullet is a very good shooter in .38 specials. I've never tried it in the .357 though. Good luck.

Thanks, I know they're not perfect, but I figured they were good enough to plink with, which is what most of my shooting is.

Them ones look ok to me ! Not perfect but at accuracy at plinking distance I doubt anyone be able to tell the difference . Yep the Lee ladle is pretty sad . Find yourself a Lyman ladle . You'll get better at this just keep going at it .

The Lee ladle was a big disappointment. I didn't expect much for $6, but I had hoped it would do better than it did.

The bases on those are fine. They are designed with a slight bevel on the base. No problems there at all. Look at the picture on the Lee website for that boolit.
https://leeprecision.com/6-cavity-tl358-158swc.html

Thanks, I see that now. So I guess they're better than I thought.

I'd shoot them. Next time try bumping the heat up one number and get the mold a little hotter. The bases will have nice sharp edges. Nice job. All you have to do is place a $21 order to smoke fir a pound of powder and som bb's then head over to the $1 store and buy somtupperware to tumble.

I'm going to shoot them. I have come to the conclusion that both my lead and my mold could stand to be a little hotter. The best ones came out toward the end of my short session and I think that among other things it was because temperatures were getting up where they needed to be.

I plan to look into powder coating later. These will probably just get a light coat of Lee Liquid Alox on them. One new thing at a time.

I recommend a casting thermometer as your next purchase. Just because the lead is melted doesn't mean it's hot enough. I don't even start casting till it's 750.

I've been looking at thermometers but not ought one yet. Might have to wait until I get a better dipper/ladle. But from various comments here and on another forum, I think the lead and mold may have both been a little cool.

I have one TL bullet mold, an old Ranch Dog 165 gr. I use it for my 30/30 and 30-06 A.I. for plinking and fire forming.
Those bullets look fine, and as stated earlier, a paper target or metal plate ain't gonna complain about a little wrinkle. If your bases are good, they'll shoot.
There's a lot of different tumble lubes out there, Check with White Label Lubes for some 45-45-10. I use plain old JPW for a tumble lube and it is just great. I don't like Lee LLA, but from what I've read about the 45-45-10 it's supposed to be the best stuff since sliced bread... Ask Glen @ WLL for his suggestions. He's very knowledgeable about his craft.

These will get straight Alox, but I'm planning to mix up some 45/45/10 or Ben's Liquid Lube when I gt a chance. I've been reading good things about both of them on here.

Well done, and congratulations!

Glad you took the plunge and started casting. Those pills look fine and I'd send them right along their way.

With aluminum molds (like Lee) the pace you cast at also makes a difference in your mold temp. Mold temp is what matters most...you can have super hot lead and a cold mold and get poor bullets but a hot mold is hard to beat...casting at a pace that keeps this mold temp higher takes time when learning the rhythm and mechanics so that it's axiomatic...but once you get it down, it's a great feeling.

Good luck and don't get frustrated...you're doing great so far

Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk

Yeah, I will have to work on the pace and find a rhythm that works. I started out looking at each bullet as I dropped it from the mold to see how they looked. That didn't work out so well. I think everything cooled off too much between pours. But toward the end when I was finally getting into a rhythm they turned out a lot better.

Thanks for all the comments and tips. I appreciate it.

Dave

[jcren]

Easiest beginning estimate for mold temp I found was simply to dip the end/corner of the mold into the melt and wait until the mold will lift out clean. If lead is freezing and sticking to the outside, it will freeze and wrinkle when poured inside.

[Czech_too]

Easiest beginning estimate for mold temp I found was simply to dip the end/corner of the mold into the melt and wait until the mold will lift out clean. If lead is freezing and sticking to the outside, it will freeze and wrinkle when poured inside.

^^^^^

[tward]

DaveTNC, the Boolits look good. Just keep at it and it will get easier. Practice doesn't make perfect here but it does make better! I believe I have an extra Lyman ladle. Send me a PM and I'll send it along. No it's not free, you have to do something similar in the future for a new caster!
Tim

[DaveTNC]

Easiest beginning estimate for mold temp I found was simply to dip the end/corner of the mold into the melt and wait until the mold will lift out clean. If lead is freezing and sticking to the outside, it will freeze and wrinkle when poured inside.

^^^^^

That seems to be the biggest thing I neglected to do. I read about in the instructions when I got the molds, but forgot about it when I actually started trying to use them and just rested the mold on the pot like I had seen so many others do in videos and stuff. Who would of thought that the manufacturer would know the best way to use their product? Next time I'll heat them up that way for sure.

And Czech_too, that's your lead in them boolits. Thanks!

DaveTNC, the Boolits look good. Just keep at it and it will get easier. Practice doesn't make perfect here but it does make better! I believe I have an extra Lyman ladle. Send me a PM and I'll send it along. No it's not free, you have to do something similar in the future for a new caster!
Tim

Tim I would really appreciate that. I was looking at them online last night but didn't order one yet. I'll take you up on the offer and PIF to someone else when I see the opportunity. I'll send a PM later today. Thanks!

Dave

[owejia]

Casting gets better with every experience, some days it seems to me to be like voo-doo science. We usually overthink simple things such as casting lubing or powder coating. Just relax and try to solve each problem as they occur. Most of the casting community have been where you are. Some times when things do not work exactly as I want I have to stop and walk away and relax, think about the problem and then correct it. Every one's experience is unique to them.

[DaveTNC]

Casting gets better with every experience, some days it seems to me to be like voo-doo science. We usually overthink simple things such as casting lubing or powder coating. Just relax and try to solve each problem as they occur. Most of the casting community have been where you are. Some times when things do not work exactly as I want I have to stop and walk away and relax, think about the problem and then correct it. Every one's experience is unique to them.

Yeah, this was my first attempt after studying it to death for the last few weeks, but once I got things going and started to get into a little bit of a rhythm and I settled down, it became sort of enjoyable knowing I was actually making bullets that I could shoot. Kind of like reloading, I think it will become a hobby of it's own. I know I have a lot to learn, but I like experimenting and learning how to do things.

Dave

[wendyj]

I have that same mold in 44 mag. Got to get it hot first for sure. You can plan on dumping first 5-6 pours back out until it gets hot. I also take a propane torch and heat both sides of the spruce plate with it and it always helps.

[David2011]

Boolits look fine. Choot 'em. They will get even better as you gain experience and learn to manage the temperature of the mold which is more important that the temperature of the pot. The mold itself may get a little better with use, too. Read up on fluxing with sawdust within this forum. It will make a difference. We have some die hard ladle casters here but it seems like most of them are casting heavier rifle boolits where it's easier to keep everything hot.

One new thing at a time is an excellent approach. Too many changes at one make troubleshooting more complicated.

[DaveTNC]

It seems from all the comments that one of the key things is getting the mold hot enough. I'll have to watch that better next time.

I didn't flux this pot. The range lead ingots that I got from Czech_too looked really clean. There was just about a tablespoon of stuff to skim off the top when they melted. Will fluxing still help?

Thanks for all the help,
Dave