+1 to JonB - what is your cylinder gap? What is the pistol?
Like already said - that's pretty excessive for 40 rounds.
+1 to JonB - what is your cylinder gap? What is the pistol?
Like already said - that's pretty excessive for 40 rounds.
I was told that maybe I crimped these too much and that is causing this issue?
Too much crimp can cause some problems, but I don't see it causing the lead spray around the forcing cone that you're getting.
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
These bullets have been sitting for the better part of 3 years, doubt that has anything to do with it but I don't know.
I got some of this (although not as severe) when the bullets I used were .003"+ larger than the cylinder throats. Also there appeared to be some "lead spray" on the cylinder face. I would measure the cylinder throats and size (or purchase) bullets the same diameter as a start.
My Anchor is holding fast!
I shoot a Ubertti 45 Colt, never seen this on mine.
I'm REALLY surprised that nobody has identified the correct failure mechanism or recognizes what is actually happening.
Your photos show the typical leading result caused by commercial cast bullets which are too hard and undersized for the throats, in a load which is inadequate to upset the hard bullet for a correct gas-seal in the cylinder throats, being aggravated by hard commercial bullet lube which does not flow to coat the bore under pressure. Everything is wrong.
This is THE classic recipe for revolver leading, characterized by gas leakage around the bullet which washes lead from the surface, depositing it in the forcing cone, barrel extension and frame.
If you used SOFTER bullets of 8-12 BHN, such as COWW, 1:20, 1:25 or even 1:30 tin-lead, sizing bullets to the same size or no more than 0.001" smaller than the cylinder throats actually pin-out, IGNORING the groove diameter of your barrel (which doesn't matter), then use a standard book load, in .45 Colt 6.5-7.0 grains of Bullseye or 8.0-8.5 grains of Unique or 8.5-9.5 of Herco AND a SOFT lube which you can squish with your fingers, the leading will stop because the bullets will then FIT and SEAL and the lube will flow to provide an ablative coating to the bore which prevents vaporous lead blown off the bullet surface from adhering to the bore. This is a basic study in strength of materials, mechanics, thermodynamics, heat transfer and fluid flow, which are predictable through finite element analysis if you know an engineering student needing a lab project.
The reason commercial cast bullets are hard, is because they can buy pre-mixed alloy in ton heat lots, the hard metal casts well, looks pretty and isn't damaged in shipping. The hard commercial lube feeds well through progressive loading machines, but in most cases hard bullets and hard lubes are a sure recipe for failure in standard pressure revolver loads developing less than about 20,000 psia. They work better in full-charge .45 ACP and 9mm loads for which these materials are better suited.
If you don't cast your own bullets and want to buy some to try, I would recommend these from Matt's:
http://www.mattsbullets.com/index.ph...roducts_id=261
He has them in either .452 or .454. His lube is soft and his alloy is not excessively hard, more like COWW + 2% tin, which works well for full charge loads in the .45 Colt in the range of 14,000-16,000 psi, suitable for modern Colt clones.
Last edited by Outpost75; 08-13-2018 at 03:23 PM.
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
Thanks for the advice, I will check him out. Rather pricey though...
Why do you suggest that one over this one? http://www.mattsbullets.com/index.ph...roducts_id=279
The best way would be to measure with pin/plug gauges. But I have slugged cylinders just like I do the barrel. I prefer a slug .005"-.010" over the throat diameter but I have used soft cast bullets .003"-.005" over throat diameter. There are other good methods (ball gauges, small hole gaugeshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDuluUyIph8 , etc.) but calipers aren't accurate for small diameter IDs. Personally, I don't consider "push through", "snug", or "drop through" to be measurements and I like to know, in thousandths, what the diameter is...
My Anchor is holding fast!
So this would work good? https://www.grainger.com/product/WES...ole-Gage-4KU94
You want a set of minus pin gauges. You can get them reasonably on ebay, sometimes. .251-.500.
Until 9/4/18 MSC Direct has The 250 piece Minus set for $99.99. KB86463023 is the order number otherwise $222.77 mcsdirect.com
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
I guess I'm going to buy a pot and just start making my own bullets...
Stopsign32v: That's the best way. On your first try it might be a good idea to put in an order for your choice of alloy from the site sponsor Rotometals. That will eliminate one problem that you may encounter from an unknown alloy contamination. Good luck and happy casting. Gp
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |