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Thread: Problems re-forming 30-06 brass to 7x57

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Problems re-forming 30-06 brass to 7x57

    Just started re-forming some once fired R-P 30-06 cases to 7x57. I used the RCBS forming/trim die and lubed the cases with Imperial Sizing wax. About 70% of my cases were distorted in the shoulder area. What am I doing wrong??
    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master Skipper's Avatar
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    Looks like a lube dent.
    Some people try to turn back their "odometers." Not me. I want people to know why I look this way. I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.

  3. #3
    I agree with too much lube

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    If you have a .308 die you can run the case in it , to set the shoulder back first, then use the 7x57 die. And try annealing between forming operations, if you still have problems. If you have a 8x57 die, try it to set back the shoulder, might work better than the 308. Jim

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Unless you anneal fired cases, you're going to have this problem. Best to start with new, but still annealing is better than not annealing. Also, as others have said, reduce the lube to an absolute minimum, and set the shoulder back (and trim) before reducing the neck.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    MikeN,

    The other guys nailed it; it looks like too much lube. Remember, if you use less lube on the cartridge cases, be sure to understand lube will also buildup inside the resizing die. When case reforming, I clean the sizing die occasionally. My favorite .30-06 case for making .35 Whelen, 8x57, 7.65 and 7x57MM cases are R-P brass. I have yet to need to anneal to get good cases.

    What press are you using? I size to just above the needed new case shoulder dimension, trim as needed and then do the final resizing in the ultimate case caliber dies desired. But, I have the new rifle at the bench and resize just enough to get a "crunch" fit in that new rifle chamber and label the brass to that specific arm. Hope this helps.

    Adam

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    My CH 8x57 die has the neat little vent hole for the case lube to escape. That being said they should iron out when fired.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I resize 30-06 to 7.7x58 Jap and have found that running the brass into the die most of the way, backing it out and spinning it about a 1/2 turn then finish resizing it helps a lot with shoulder dents. That one looks like too much lube as was said before.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    Hickory's Avatar
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    Clean the inside of your sizer die then just lube the lower third of the case.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

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    only to God and my own conscience.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Like was said, too much lube but I also get better results by only running the brass into the trim die, backing off and turning part way before going the rest of the way. I usually lose maybe one or two cases out of a 100.
    I then bandsaw most of the excess off before using the trimmer. By setting up the rip guide on the saw, I can do them very quickly.
    I also do the 8mm the same way. I have now started using .270 brass as most at our range don't reload .270 but .30-06 is hard to come by.
    .270 also forms a lot easier to 7mm than -06.

  11. #11
    Boolit Mold
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    Thank you to all that replied. I did lube fairly heavy as I thought the forming process would go harder than it did. The press is an RCBS Rockchucker. I'll keep at it and back off on the excess lube! The only 7x57 new cases I've found are Norma and Nosler at well over 1$ each (almost 2$ for the Nosler) so this looked like a good move. Thanks for the good suggestions! Back to the bench.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    That being said they should iron out when fired.
    I've had this problem forming 309 JDJ from 444 Marlin. If it was a smooth dent it might self correct, but these cases have a folded crease. They do not iron out.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Try forming .577/.450 Martini Henry from 24 gauge brass shot hulls sometime.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master




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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatume View Post
    I've had this problem forming 309 JDJ from 444 Marlin. If it was a smooth dent it might self correct, but these cases have a folded crease. They do not iron out.
    I was going to say the same. Most likely will crack at that location.
    You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    And this is why I ALWAYS anneal the cases before reforming. No splits. no dents. no fouls!

  16. #16
    Boolit Master




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    Quote Originally Posted by jimb16 View Post
    And this is why I ALWAYS anneal the cases before reforming. No splits. no dents. no fouls!

    When I resize 30-06 to 8MM Mauser I don't anneal, but I do go light on the lube and go slow.
    You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Eddie2002 View Post
    have found that running the brass into the die most of the way, backing it out and spinning it about a 1/2 turn then finish resizing it helps a lot with shoulder dents.
    i do the exact same thing, whether its '06 or a x57 or a 308 case.

    take a q-tip, pull off MOST of the cotton and dip/put it in your lube. spin the lube off(imperial, 100" lanolin...) in your jar. then put the q-tip inside of the neck and spin it around a time or two and then put the q-tip back. then use your imperial wax/100% lanolin.... to lube the outside of the case.

    i use 100% lanolin paste and i never had a lube dent, yet.
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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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