Problems re-forming 30-06 brass to 7x57

[MikeN]

Just started re-forming some once fired R-P 30-06 cases to 7x57. I used the RCBS forming/trim die and lubed the cases with Imperial Sizing wax. About 70% of my cases were distorted in the shoulder area. What am I doing wrong??

[Skipper]

Looks like a lube dent.

[SNDBGGR1484]

I agree with too much lube

[Gewehr-Guy]

If you have a .308 die you can run the case in it , to set the shoulder back first, then use the 7x57 die. And try annealing between forming operations, if you still have problems. If you have a 8x57 die, try it to set back the shoulder, might work better than the 308. Jim

[Tatume]

Unless you anneal fired cases, you're going to have this problem. Best to start with new, but still annealing is better than not annealing. Also, as others have said, reduce the lube to an absolute minimum, and set the shoulder back (and trim) before reducing the neck.

[Adam Helmer]

MikeN,

The other guys nailed it; it looks like too much lube. Remember, if you use less lube on the cartridge cases, be sure to understand lube will also buildup inside the resizing die. When case reforming, I clean the sizing die occasionally. My favorite .30-06 case for making .35 Whelen, 8x57, 7.65 and 7x57MM cases are R-P brass. I have yet to need to anneal to get good cases.

What press are you using? I size to just above the needed new case shoulder dimension, trim as needed and then do the final resizing in the ultimate case caliber dies desired. But, I have the new rifle at the bench and resize just enough to get a "crunch" fit in that new rifle chamber and label the brass to that specific arm. Hope this helps.

Adam

[Texas by God]

My CH 8x57 die has the neat little vent hole for the case lube to escape. That being said they should iron out when fired.

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[Eddie2002]

I resize 30-06 to 7.7x58 Jap and have found that running the brass into the die most of the way, backing it out and spinning it about a 1/2 turn then finish resizing it helps a lot with shoulder dents. That one looks like too much lube as was said before.

[Hickory]

Clean the inside of your sizer die then just lube the lower third of the case.

[fast ronnie]

Like was said, too much lube but I also get better results by only running the brass into the trim die, backing off and turning part way before going the rest of the way. I usually lose maybe one or two cases out of a 100.
I then bandsaw most of the excess off before using the trimmer. By setting up the rip guide on the saw, I can do them very quickly.
I also do the 8mm the same way. I have now started using .270 brass as most at our range don't reload .270 but .30-06 is hard to come by.
.270 also forms a lot easier to 7mm than -06.

[MikeN]

Thank you to all that replied. I did lube fairly heavy as I thought the forming process would go harder than it did. The press is an RCBS Rockchucker. I'll keep at it and back off on the excess lube! The only 7x57 new cases I've found are Norma and Nosler at well over 1$ each (almost 2$ for the Nosler) so this looked like a good move. Thanks for the good suggestions! Back to the bench.

[Tatume]

That being said they should iron out when fired.

I've had this problem forming 309 JDJ from 444 Marlin. If it was a smooth dent it might self correct, but these cases have a folded crease. They do not iron out.

[elmacgyver0]

Try forming .577/.450 Martini Henry from 24 gauge brass shot hulls sometime.

[EMC45]

I've had this problem forming 309 JDJ from 444 Marlin. If it was a smooth dent it might self correct, but these cases have a folded crease. They do not iron out.

I was going to say the same. Most likely will crack at that location.

[jimb16]

And this is why I ALWAYS anneal the cases before reforming. No splits. no dents. no fouls!

[EMC45]

And this is why I ALWAYS anneal the cases before reforming. No splits. no dents. no fouls!

When I resize 30-06 to 8MM Mauser I don't anneal, but I do go light on the lube and go slow.

[500Linebaughbuck]

have found that running the brass into the die most of the way, backing it out and spinning it about a 1/2 turn then finish resizing it helps a lot with shoulder dents.

i do the exact same thing, whether its '06 or a x57 or a 308 case.

take a q-tip, pull off MOST of the cotton and dip/put it in your lube. spin the lube off(imperial, 100" lanolin...) in your jar. then put the q-tip inside of the neck and spin it around a time or two and then put the q-tip back. then use your imperial wax/100% lanolin.... to lube the outside of the case.

i use 100% lanolin paste and i never had a lube dent, yet.

[mac1911]

Thank you to all that replied. I did lube fairly heavy as I thought the forming process would go harder than it did. The press is an RCBS Rockchucker. I'll keep at it and back off on the excess lube! The only 7x57 new cases I've found are Norma and Nosler at well over 1$ each (almost 2$ for the Nosler) so this looked like a good move. Thanks for the good suggestions! Back to the bench.

You need to keep your eye open for PPU brass comes around now and again and last time I got it on sale for .43 each shipped.
I have made a good amount of 7.7 and 8mm Mauser from HXP 30-06
I just used the 8mm it 7.7 die with my home brew lanolin lube.
I have also purchased PPU ammunition in the 7.7,303, Swiss, Swede and Mauser Cals just to get the brass especially when I see it for sale -$18 box. It’s a good way to fit form cases also.

Oh and your sent. Look for the “weep” hole on your die. Mine became clogged after years of use and I started getting dents. Cleaned it up and I did not even notice the small “vent” hole until I had a problem

[Char-Gar]

Nope, not a lube dent. This will happen most every time, unless you go slowly, drop the press ram and rotate the case in the shell holder about 1/4 turn every time. It will take about 4 to 6 passes to get the case all the way sized without the buckled part.

[Texas by God]

If you can find PPU 7x57 ammo or unprimed brass you're golden at a good price.

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