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Thread: A 1911 and a replacement barrel

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    A 1911 and a replacement barrel

    I recently purchased a good quality 1911(factory stock, no modifications) in a combat style setup. I prefer not to name the brand at this point. I made sure it was broken in with new hardball and reloads with FMJ. It worked like a champ with anything that looked like hardball including some Lyman 452374 boolits.
    A couple of days ago I took it to the range and started using H&G 68 style SWC, Lee 230 tc(standard lube groove), and NOE 230 RN boolit in it and had nothing but trouble. They wouldn't feed properly or chamber properly about half the time. 2-4 failures per magazine. I tried some Nosler 185ngrain jacketed hollow points in it as well and had the same trouble.
    Today, I loaded a new batch thinking I may have been careless but the new loads didn't work a bit better than the last time.
    I remembered I had an older Colt barrel in my bag that I had DOUGGUY do his chamber magic to a while back. I took it out and tried it in the new 1911 and it fit. Slide locked up tightly and everything worked as it should as far as gun function. I was even able to use the same bushing.
    I fired a few rounds of hardball through it to make sure the function was correct and it even shot to the same point of aim.
    I loaded up a few magazines of the SWC boolits and some of the others I had previously had trouble with.
    I ran all of them through the pistol without a single hiccup. That new barrel that DOUGGUY worked on for me was apparently the ticket to perfect function.
    I spent the rest of the time I was at the range trying to find something that wouldn't feed in it and could not do so.
    The different barrel took care of all the issues.
    Looks like I may have another barrel for Dougguy to work on.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    A properly throated barrel and back end of the chamber cures a myriad of malfunctions. DougGuy does marvelous job at this.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  3. #3
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    Heh I'm just gonna say
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  4. #4
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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy

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    You shouldn't do that.
    A gunsmith needs to check for proper lug engagement on a 1911.
    If it's not right, you can shear the lugs and ruin the barrel and the slide.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valley-Shooter View Post
    You shouldn't do that.
    A gunsmith needs to check for proper lug engagement on a 1911.
    If it's not right, you can shear the lugs and ruin the barrel and the slide.
    If the factory installed barrel is currently working well with HB ammo, it would appear there is no problem with lug engagement on the outside of the barrel. How will polishing the case mouth affect this? While I agree that for perfect function, the bottom edge of the barrel must mate relatively well with the top of the feed ramp of the frame, this also does not seem to be the OP’s problem, and judicious reworking of the chamber only shouldn’t disturb this. What am I missing here? Are you talking about him switching out barrels? You do know that the standard dimensions for the 1911 design are pretty well established, right?

    Froggie
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  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
    If the factory installed barrel is currently working well with HB ammo, it would appear there is no problem with lug engagement on the outside of the barrel. How will polishing the case mouth affect this? While I agree that for perfect function, the bottom edge of the barrel must mate relatively well with the top of the feed ramp of the frame, this also does not seem to be the OP’s problem, and judicious reworking of the chamber only shouldn’t disturb this. What am I missing here? Are you talking about him switching out barrels? You do know that the standard dimensions for the 1911 design are pretty well established, right?

    Froggie
    In Valley-Shooter's defense, I believe he is referring to the barrel I used as a test to see if the chamber needed reworked on the original barrel. If it didn't fit properly, the damage he talked about is possible.
    You are correct in saying that the 1911 design is well established. That is the reason I decided to try the barrel I had on hand.
    That said, different manufacturers may use slightly different tolerances or fitting techniques.
    I checked to see if things mated up well when I put the different barrel in the weapon. Everything was tight, with no slack in the lockup area. There was no vertical, lengthwise, or sideways movement when the pistol was in battery. It released as it should with no extra effort.
    It was as if the barrel had been fitted for this pistol. If it had not fit correctly, I would not have fired it.
    You are correct that any changes made to the chamber will have no effect of the fitting of the original barrel to the gun. That part will not be changed in any manner. Only the chamber.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy

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    I'm still concerned about the drop-in barrel.
    The top lugs need to be checked. Layout blue or putty. Whatever method you like. Measure them.
    It sounds like the bottem is tight because you have no movement.

    Barrels and slides are expensive. Not to mention the cost of the gunsmith.
    Just be careful. Please.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valley-Shooter View Post
    I'm still concerned about the drop-in barrel.
    The top lugs need to be checked. Layout blue or putty. Whatever method you like. Measure them.
    It sounds like the bottem is tight because you have no movement.

    Barrels and slides are expensive. Not to mention the cost of the gunsmith.
    Just be careful. Please.
    I am quite certain, that in the history of 1911 shooting, there have been slides and barrels that are so poorly made, that what you mentioned has occurred. That said, it will take some bad out of spec parts for that to happen. In 58 years of 1911 shooting, I have switched out barrels dozens of time without any issues. I certainly and not going to make your concern a top level issue for me. I certainly am not going to run down to a gunsmith and ask him to check.

    It is my opinion, this is making a minor concern, a major concern.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Char-Gar View Post
    I am quite certain, that in the history of 1911 shooting, there have been slides and barrels that are so poorly made, that what you mentioned has occurred. That said, it will take some bad out of spec parts for that to happen. In 58 years of 1911 shooting, I have switched out barrels dozens of time without any issues. I certainly and not going to make your concern a top level issue for me. I certainly am not going to run down to a gunsmith and ask him to check.

    It is my opinion, this is making a minor concern, a major concern.
    I agree. Both the pistol and the barrel are from quality makers.
    I fired about 75-100 rounds through the gun after the switch and inspected it after I got home. There were no irregularities on either the slide or the barrel. I paid particular attention to the lug area.
    It is going to be moot anyway as the barrel is on it’s way to get fixed.
    I appreciate the concern but there is no problem here.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tazman View Post
    I agree. Both the pistol and the barrel are from quality makers.
    I fired about 75-100 rounds through the gun after the switch and inspected it after I got home. There were no irregularities on either the slide or the barrel. I paid particular attention to the lug area.
    It is going to be moot anyway as the barrel is on it’s way to get fixed.
    I appreciate the concern but there is no problem here.
    Yep, I am fond of Colt SS barrels, as they drop into every 1911 I have owned, Colt and otherwise. They do not produce the highest level of accuracy, compared to hand fitted match barrels, but they are heads and shoulders about barrels that come in low end 1911s. They shoot as good as I can hold.

    About 13 years ago, I had a Springer Mil-Spec that produced groups of 5 inches at 25 yards. I put in a spare Colt barrel and the groups dropped to 2 inches. Same gun (except for the barrel), same ammo and same shooter.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  12. #12
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    Don't forget about the ordnance tests, taking 100 complete 1911 pistols, completely disassembling them, then grabbing parts at random, there needed to be 100 complete and WORKING pistols!! This was in the original contract prior to WWI afaik..

    The 1911, 1911A1, and all of the replacement parts for these pistols were produced by many vendors. The one common denominator is that they must all meet the requirements for interchangeability to be accepted by the US Army.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


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    Would the trouble rounds plunk test in the barrel?

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wv109323 View Post
    Would the trouble rounds plunk test in the barrel?
    No, some did not. The cast SWC loads did not plunk. The action would not close on them. They work fine in my other weapons but not this one.
    The Nosler Jacketed hollow points would drop right in(plunk) but would fail to feed and get jammed a portion of the time. Not always. Again, these same loads and magazines work perfectly in my other pistols.
    The replacement barrel had been throated where the original had not been. All loads ran through it without fail. Therefore, I am having the original barrel throated by the same man who did the replacement barrel.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master


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    The throating should fix the problem with the SWCs. You may continue to have the same feeding problem with the Nozlers. As a guess the feeding issue may be due to a difference in OAL. With a blunt nose/shorter bullet the pathe of the bullet is changed as it goes up the feed ramp. The magazine will release the case at the same point but the bullet is not as far into the chamber as with the 200 swc. Also the angle of the case rim is changed with a shorter bullet as the rim slides up the breechface and under the extractor.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by wv109323 View Post
    Also the angle of the case rim is changed with a shorter bullet as the rim slides up the breechface and under the extractor.
    It also loses the upward push sooner from the boolit under the one being chambered. This is what pushes the round being chambered up the breech face and under the extractor hook. Upward pressure from the round(s) beneath it..
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    We will find out when I get the barrel back.
    The replacement barrel fed the Nosler hollowpoints just fine though. Only difference was the barrel.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master S.B.'s Avatar
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    I'd opt that at least 90% of all semi auto problems will be the magazines(can also affect what bullets feed well in particular guns)? I have no doubt the gunsmith recommended here does excellent work.
    Steve
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    I have spent many hours with a glass and stones on the chamber end of a 1911 barrel even had to do some work on the frames. a little stone work makes a high power feed hollow points too.

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valley-Shooter View Post
    I'm still concerned about the drop-in barrel.
    The top lugs need to be checked. Layout blue or putty. Whatever method you like. Measure them.
    It sounds like the bottem is tight because you have no movement.

    Barrels and slides are expensive. Not to mention the cost of the gunsmith.
    Just be careful. Please.
    I tested the barrel lugs to see how deeply they engaged. They actually engage deeper than the original barrel does, so everything is fine.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check