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Thread: Henry Single Shot Initial Impressions

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by bedbugbilly View Post
    So - maybe a stupid question but I'll ask anyway.

    Scenario - you have a Henry that you want to send back to the factory for warranty work - you go to their site and file a claim and they send you a shipping label. Can you use their label and ship the rifle directly to them - possibly across state lines . . . or does it have to go from a FFL to the factory and then back to the FFL? I'm curious more than anything else as I'm sure it occurs on a regular basis with all gun mfg. when warranty work is required.
    The owner can ship the firearm directly to the manufacturer (or gunsmith) who can ship it back directly to the owner. No FFL is needed.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by bedbugbilly View Post
    So - maybe a stupid question but I'll ask anyway.

    Scenario - you have a Henry that you want to send back to the factory for warranty work - you go to their site and file a claim and they send you a shipping label. Can you use their label and ship the rifle directly to them - possibly across state lines . . . or does it have to go from a FFL to the factory and then back to the FFL? I'm curious more than anything else as I'm sure it occurs on a regular basis with all gun mfg. when warranty work is required.
    I'd guess it can depend by state, but for the most part you can ship directly to the factory, and they can ship it directly back. Do not put anything on the package that may hint at what's inside, and do not tell the shipping place what's inside. This is completely opposite from shipping ammo, in which case absolutely add the ORM-D label, and let them know it's ammo. With firearms though, there is nothing dangerous inside, no (federal) law saying you have to disclose what's inside. It's best just not let anyone know. Obviously you can't ship it loaded, and I recommend a very good package. Best is to ship in the original box, and then put that inside an even larger box.

    I would think Michigan is ok, I know for sure Arizona is ok. I know shipping to Washington can be iffy. You should be fine with any firearm, and in the case of Henry, you will have no problems.

  3. #43
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    I've heard nothing more from Henry since they received the rifle on 8/23 but I'm in no hurry. If it comes back with a better trigger I'll be all smiles and if not it'll either get sold or sit in the back of the safe until someone markets some sort of spring/trigger kit.
    megasupermagnum....Like you, I got weary of battling the trigger pull. Even as a wobbly old guy I can usually connect shooting offhand at clay pigeons set up in the 50 yard berm but didn't do very well with this Henry. Just to end on a positive note...I ran some LBT 320 gr. LFNGC handloads that chrony at 1220 fps in a revolver so am guessing about 1400 fps in the rifle. I expected to get bumped a little bit but recoil was surprisingly mild...they put a good functioning recoil pad on these guns. I wish my Ruger #1 .45/70 had one as good as this. lol

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by doghawg View Post
    I've heard nothing more from Henry since they received the rifle on 8/23 but I'm in no hurry. If it comes back with a better trigger I'll be all smiles and if not it'll either get sold or sit in the back of the safe until someone markets some sort of spring/trigger kit.
    megasupermagnum....Like you, I got weary of battling the trigger pull. Even as a wobbly old guy I can usually connect shooting offhand at clay pigeons set up in the 50 yard berm but didn't do very well with this Henry. Just to end on a positive note...I ran some LBT 320 gr. LFNGC handloads that chrony at 1220 fps in a revolver so am guessing about 1400 fps in the rifle. I expected to get bumped a little bit but recoil was surprisingly mild...they put a good functioning recoil pad on these guns. I wish my Ruger #1 .45/70 had one as good as this. lol
    Well you are doing better than me with S&W. I sent my model 57 back for the SECOND time after having to send a letter through snail mail just to get a person on the phone. I sent it before the 23rd, and have yet to see it. Worse yet is they only use Fedex. I had a choice of driving over an hour round trip (for a second time) to the nearest drop off, or paying the local FFL $30 to send it. I chose the second option. With UPS, you could probably schedule to have a pickup right from your door. That gun has the opposite problem. The trigger is not too bad, but I honestly think a smooth bore would be more accurate than it was.

    I don't know if I had mentioned the recoil pad in my first couple posts, but yes, the recoil pad on the Henry is very nice.

  5. #45
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    "The normal trigger-pull weight range for our centerfire rifles is 5-6 lbs."
    I have been watching for a chance to pick one of these up to see what I think, I think that trigger pull design spec is too much on a shotgun! Stoopid lawyers, fixable no doubt but give me a break! Maybe they will reconsider by the time the 3030 is reconized as a good idea as well. 3855 would be cool!
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  6. #46
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    I don't like anything about them.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbt50 View Post
    I don't like anything about them.
    Can you expand on that, or are you just bored?

  8. #48
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    I've something on the order of a dozen H&R's in the house and have been watching and listening on the Henry's intently. What I'm hearing is that they're pumping them out as fast as they can go, with minimal QC. That's a shame, as it will relegate the single shots to entry level and "Old Fart" status alongside the H&R's.
    More "This is what happened when I,,,,," and less "What would happen if I,,,,"

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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hamish View Post
    I've something on the order of a dozen H&R's in the house and have been watching and listening on the Henry's intently. What I'm hearing is that they're pumping them out as fast as they can go, with minimal QC. That's a shame, as it will relegate the single shots to entry level and "Old Fart" status alongside the H&R's.
    So, what market are these Henry single shoot rifles aimed at? I have a Miroku/ Winchester 1885, and a Thompson Center Encore, that have fantastic fit and finish, and aren't entry level by any means (as are Ruger No 1), but the price of the weapon reflect this. I always saw H&R as a cheep jab at the Encore myself, BUT I have owned two of the heavy barreled H&R in 223 and 243 that where accurate and serviceable firearms, though rather rough and crude compared with the aforementioned rifles. At the time I used them it's what I could afford!

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hamish View Post
    I've something on the order of a dozen H&R's in the house and have been watching and listening on the Henry's intently. What I'm hearing is that they're pumping them out as fast as they can go, with minimal QC. That's a shame, as it will relegate the single shots to entry level and "Old Fart" status alongside the H&R's.
    Is that how I came across? No Henry isn't just pumping these out at all. I think the trigger is by design way too heavy. Everything else about the gun is top notch. Henry says they were aiming for the more affordable market, but I think they missed the mark. These fall kind of in no man's land price wise. If they could knock off $100, and put a reasonable trigger in them, they would be flying off shelves.

    There are those that appreciate the nice wood and finish, I'm not one. It is nice though. The encore is just ridiculous. 10-15 years ago sure, but now a whole gun is $900, and barrels $350+? Not a chance, just buy a Ruger #1. H&R wasn't a knock off of the Encore either. H&R was making single shots before T/C was even a company.

  11. #51
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    H&R wasn't making high powered rifles on a break action frame before Thompson Center, where they? The way I meant jab, was they where aimed at would be Encore buyers at half the price. I seem to remember the first H&R rifles being pistol caliber rounds on a shotgun frame, before they made frames to take the true high power rifle pressures. I digress. The Henry single shots look real nice. The lines remind me more of the Stevens shotgun than a topper, and if Henry puts a vent rib 12ga in there I would buy one myself!

    Do the Henry rifles extract, or eject?

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thundarstick View Post
    H&R wasn't making high powered rifles on a break action frame before Thompson Center, where they? The way I meant jab, was they where aimed at would be Encore buyers at half the price. I seem to remember the first H&R rifles being pistol caliber rounds on a shotgun frame, before they made frames to take the true high power rifle pressures. I digress. The Henry single shots look real nice. The lines remind me more of the Stevens shotgun than a topper, and if Henry puts a vent rib 12ga in there I would buy one myself!

    Do the Henry rifles extract, or eject?
    The Henry rifles have extractors, and the shotguns ejectors.

    I don't know the whole history of H&R, but they have had a similar design for a long time. A quick search shows that the TC Encore came out in 1983, I always thought it was in the 90's. I can't find a date for the handi rifle, although it is probably about the same time as the Encore. The H&R frames are the same, but over time they developed a different heat treating process for the higher pressure cartridges. That's the only difference between the SB1 and SB2, the heat treat. So H&R hasn't been making rifle barrels for that long, but the frame design far outdates the Encore. They were a lot less than half price too, but you wouldn't know it by what people ask for them now.

    I personally don't like vent ribs at all, so that's a good thing for me. I probably won't own one, based on two things. The first is I hate removable chokes. I'm sure I seem crazy, but all they do is necessitate a thicker barrel, and cause more headaches. The second is unlike the handi rifle, you can still get H&R and NEF shotguns for reasonable prices sub $150. I absolutely love H&R shotguns, and will continue to collect them.

  13. #53
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    UPDATE: The steel Henry .44 single shot came back today. They tightened down the stock and never touched the trigger. The following explanation was in the box listed as "Supervisory Notes: ....

    "The trigger pull relates to both safety and misfires. We are not going to be able to reduce trigger pull as it is for safety purposes. If we back down on that we are jeopardizing the safety and proper functionality of the rifle."

    They didn't address the creep or "catches" in the 3 stage heavy pull. When I calm down I'll decide whether to stuff it in the back of the safe till I find a competent smith or put it on the table at a gunshow. This is my first Henry.....

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by doghawg View Post
    UPDATE: The steel Henry .44 single shot came back today. They tightened down the stock and never touched the trigger. The following explanation was in the box listed as "Supervisory Notes: ....

    "The trigger pull relates to both safety and misfires. We are not going to be able to reduce trigger pull as it is for safety purposes. If we back down on that we are jeopardizing the safety and proper functionality of the rifle."

    They didn't address the creep or "catches" in the 3 stage heavy pull. When I calm down I'll decide whether to stuff it in the back of the safe till I find a competent smith or put it on the table at a gunshow. This is my first Henry.....
    That isn't good to hear at all. It looks like it's time to open mine up and see how it really works. I'd keep it in the safe for now. I'll see what I can figure out. Trigger's are not that terrible to smooth out, so that can certainly be fixed. The question is can a lighter spring be installed to lighten the pull, and still maintain reliability.

  15. #55
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    That was not the encore in 1983, it was the TCR83, personally speaking , a much more elegant rifle! Encore was sometime later,(1998 as nest I can find) after the TC fire which destroyed the TCR 83 and 87 tooling.
    "
    "The trigger pull relates to both safety and misfires. We are not going to be able to reduce trigger pull as it is for safety purposes. If we back down on that we are jeopardizing the safety and proper functionality of the rifle." They obviously think their customers are too stupid to operate a correct trigger, blasted lawyers!@-#$%
    Last edited by rking22; 09-10-2018 at 11:18 PM.
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  16. #56
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    Ok, so I took the single shot apart. The good news is this is probably the easiest single shot trigger to deal with. No punches, no springs flying out anywhere, all you need is some allen wrenches, a couple good fitting flat head screwdrivers, and a philips screwdriver. I took it apart, and put it back together three times to make sure I wasn't feeding you guys BS.

    Remove the barrel by pushing the hinge pin out. Below you will see a small allen head screw, remove it. Next remove the butt stock, the recoil pad is philips head. Inside the cavity of the stock is one allen head, remove it, and the stock will pull off. Next remove the lower trigger screws on the sides of the frame, there is one on each side. The trigger guard will now pull out easily. Next, unscrew the tube threaded on the rear of the frame (the stock threaded into it) that holds the hammer springs, it will not fly away from you, but it is stiff. There is a bar and a plunger that transfer force from the springs to the hammer, they just pull out. To take the hammer out, remove the top screw on the side of the frame, and it just pulls out. You can check out the barrel lug system, nothing flys out. The bolt needs to be pushed forward to get the trigger back together. You can move it by hand, normally the little screw in the front of the trigger guard would push it.

    Here is the hole where the small allen screw would be.
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    Here you can see two of the three screws that can come out. The bottom screws I mention are the ones closer to the trigger.
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    Here is the trigger taken apart, and laid out in correct orientation.
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    Here is the culprit, the spring is HEFTY. I'm not 100% sure what the smaller spring does. It seems too short to come into play with the hammer. Maybe it holds the stock bolt tight? The stock bolt threads into the spring housing, I bet that's what it is. I'll try it without the small spring at all.
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    The springs are nothing special. I looked through my buckets of springs, nothing matched. My calipers were outside, so I just did a quick measure with the micrometer. The OD of the big spring is .418". I couldn't measure ID, but the nipple on the plunger is .256". I have no way to measure force, but I'll do some digging and see if I can't find a suitable replacement. The so called rebounding hammer is powered by the same spring, so as you go lighter, the rebounding should be less too. This means there shouldn't be any reason a lighter spring can't work. I'm not big on polishing actual trigger mating surfaces, but I did find some areas that could use smoothing out.
    Last edited by megasupermagnum; 09-11-2018 at 01:42 AM.

  17. #57
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    Ok, more notes on the hammer spring. The exact diementions are as follows for my spring. OD .418", ID 0.270", wire thickness .073", free length 2.50", 20 active coils. Material is a carbon steel, it sparks on a grinder. An online spring calculator suggests this spring has a strenth of just under 50 lbs/in.

    I am now looking for one maybe 40 lb/in online.
    Last edited by megasupermagnum; 09-11-2018 at 04:11 PM.

  18. #58
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    I wasn't having much luck on online spring stores, but it looks like Grainger has some suitable springs. I found three, 31 lb/in, 38 lb/in, and 42 lb/in. They are only sold in packs of 10, so I'm hoping I can find a way to buy singles.

  19. #59
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    It looks like I'll have to buy all three 10 packs, and see if they work. I'll return the ones that don't, and hopefully I'll have a few I can sell to Henry owners on here.

  20. #60
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    Can you lay the hammer and trigger out against the outside of the frame maintaining alignment with the pivot pins? I am asuming the trigger directly acts as sear, but looking to see if the trigger "cocks" the hammer more as you pull to release. That is the reason 10 22s have bad factory triggers, sear is hooked into the notch. Don't know if im making sense, but that could be a big contributor. Depending on design, it is a "safety feature" ,personally don't cock the thing till your ready to shoot works pretty good.
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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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