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Thread: Is the handle on Lee 4-20 pot sticking

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Is the handle on Lee 4-20 pot sticking

    Did some searching and didn't find any answers to this. Does the handle on your Lee 4-20 pot close on its own or do you have to force closed? Is that what the weight on the handle is supposed to do? Mine sticks in the up position until I push it back down. Every now and then I inadvertently hit it and before I notice it has poured lead all over. I am getting better at paying attention but curious if it should close on its own.

    Thanks
    Lynn

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Hick's Avatar
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    Somebody on this forum recommended taking a couple of heavy metal washers and putting them over the screw that holds the handle, then putting back the handle. I had your problem, added the washers, and no problem since then -- it just adds a little more weight.
    Hick: Iron sights!

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    It should close on it's own.
    There are two screws that hold the vertical bar that the handle bolts to in place. One on top and one on the bottom. They both have flat surfaces on the side where the holes in that vertical bar ride with a flat end that should seat against the pot. If the bottom screw gets loose, the vertical bar will catch on the flat end of the screw and hold the handle in the open position. That screw needs to be seated against the bottom of the pot frame for things to work right.
    I have had that happen a couple of times over the years but not for some time now.
    Since I talked abut it, I will need to check so it doesn't happen again.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Add weight to it. The entire valve assembly is lighter than lead and weighs much less when the pot is full than when you are playing with it while empty and it looks like it should seal well. You can use a stack of washers under the handle as mentioned, or hang something from the handle, such as one of those tiny sets of vise grips from HD (which is very handy, since you not only have a neat handle, but now you know where your vise grips are).
    KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks for the suggestions. Sorta funny it does not really leak yet but sure creates a big piece of art when I look over from dropping boolits and it is on

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Check the vertical screws that the handle rides on and make sure that they are straight and not leaning out. The pot I am using now came from the factory with top and bottom screws that were both leaning to the outside of the pot causing the upper and lower slides on the handle to bind on the screws. I took the handle off and used a punch to flatten the surface on the pot where screws attached so they would stand straight and not lean in any direction. Then you can check your slides and make sure they are at 90 degrees to the upright part of slide. Mine were not bent at 90 degrees so I bent them to 90 degrees. Slide bolts straightened, Slide ends at 90 degrees. Problem solved

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Mine stuck open once when the pot reached a good working temp, I opened the holes that the top and bottom screw passes through and never had a problem again. Many complain about the Lee 4-20 but I find it a good pot as long as you use clean lead and give it a good clean now and then Regards Stephen

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub bigbore52's Avatar
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    Can totally agree with Stephens suggestion as to opening up the through holes but another workaround that I often do for maintenance is when the pot is empty, remove the plunge pin, put it in your drill chuck and polish the bej***s out of the shaft and then the pointy end. Once happy with that while still in your drill press, apply some abrasive paste (very mild stuff) and then gently run the pin in the drain hole at a low revs to clean that out and make a better seal. Make sure you hold it in the same angle as it normally travels. Don't forget to clean all the abrasive off

    I find doing that every six months or so depending on use, means a much better seal to such an extent that mine works perfectly without any drips at all without needing extra weight on it. Hope that helps...Lee

  9. #9
    Banned
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    IF the #6 shoulder bolts that the valve arm assembly slide on start coming lose you'll have problems with leakage.
    I always adjust the valve rod in until the valve arm assembly starts rising after each casting session and use clean alloy

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
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    Wow, Lots of things to try. Now I just need to heat her up and get the lead out so I can work on it.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    My last new Lee 4-20 arrived with the base so warped it rocked. I loosened the screws, worked it a bit, and tightened the screws when I had it square. I wondered if the assembler was paid piecework (how many they assembled). LOL
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  12. #12
    Boolit Mold
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    OK so I reworked almost everything mentioned. Cleaned up the holes the stem goes through, squared up the arm, sanded some sharp edges, squared up the top mounting screw, added some washers and it moves like a champ. Have not run any lead through yet but I think I'm good to go.
    Thanks to all the help.
    Great forum! I have learned a ton from everyone here considering my wife and I just started shooting about 10 months ago and are already reloading powder coated cast boolits.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    i took mine apart and smoothed and sanded the tip, where it goes into the hole, that seemed to help with leaks. also, flux your alloy well, the tiniest crud in there can really screw things up.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    GOGGLE "dripomatic"

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy Remmy4477's Avatar
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    And I just bought a new one, waiting for it to get here and I read this. Oh man!

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by munch View Post
    Great forum! I have learned a ton from everyone here considering my wife and I just started shooting about 10 months ago and are already reloading powder coated cast boolits.
    That's a pretty quick progression. There's a couple of steep learning curves that must be overcome to start shooting, relaoding and casting in that short of time frame. Congrats and welcome to the forum.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master 44magLeo's Avatar
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    Instead of steel washers I made a lead weight.
    I had a motorcycle transmission apart and found one gear had a smooth hole in it. I laid the gear on a flat piece of steel then poured the gear full. When cool drilled a hole just big enough to go on the handle bolt, install.
    The lead slug is 1.175 inches in diameter, .465 inches thick and weighs 3 ounces.
    It's a bit heavy, but it seals the spout.
    You could pour an ingot mold 3/16 inch deep then cut it in two pieces so one is about one third as long as the mold. This will give you two different weights to try.
    Leo

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by munch View Post
    Did some searching and didn't find any answers to this. Does the handle on your Lee 4-20 pot close on its own or do you have to force closed? Is that what the weight on the handle is supposed to do? Mine sticks in the up position until I push it back down. Every now and then I inadvertently hit it and before I notice it has poured lead all over. I am getting better at paying attention but curious if it should close on its own.

    Thanks
    Lynn
    i force close it after a pour.i also ''polished''' the channel inside the spout ,opened it a tiny bit, it helped quite some .

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check