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Thread: Anyone else stop fluxing?

  1. #41
    Boolit Grand Master

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    To add to my original post (#4), I flux raw scrap like wheel weights, roofing lead and cable sheathing more than I did in the past because I have discovered that the cleaner the lead that I put in my casting pot the better. In the casting pot I can get by with lightly fluxing one time with wax. It can be argued that wax is really not a flux but I use the term anyway.

    I think there were some XFR test on an older thread about wheel weights not being fluxed. If my memory is correct, it didn't make much difference with the alloy just how clean the alloy was.

    It can also be argued that wheel weights have enough oil, grease and paint to constitute a flux. Maybe so, maybe not.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
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    I recently smelted a fresh batch of WW's and the castability was less than satisfactory in filling out the corners of the driving bands, etc. I flux less often since I got smart enough to cover the alloy with wood ashes to protect it from oxidation, but stirring in the occasional spoonful of stearate and a percent or so of tin can sure change an alloy's attitude for the better. Sharp corners, fine detail and consistent BHN makes for good results on target.

  3. #43
    Moderator Emeritus


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    After about 4 years of casting I stopped unless smelting. I took a hard look at the process and started back up within a few months. The last 25 + years I still do. They sell paint with primer in it but you get a better finish if you prime separately. Same with casting, it's attention to the details.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  4. #44
    Boolit Mold twidpa's Avatar
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    Stirring and skimming with a wooden spoon sounds good as does using sawdust. No more paraffin for me.
    T

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by twidpa View Post
    Stirring and skimming with a wooden spoon sounds good as does using sawdust. No more paraffin for me.
    T
    Paraffin is very useful as a reductant. I flux with sawdust and skim, then use a small amount of paraffin. The paraffin helps mix all the elements of your alloy.

  6. #46
    Boolit Master

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    I sort of don't flux when I smelt bullet-trap range scrap. I use a covered pot so all the tiny bits of wood and targets are reduced to charcoal and carbon monoxide which reduces the metal oxides and cleans things nicely. When casting bullets I leave whatever top crust forms in my bottom pour pot as an oxygen barrier and things seem to work well without fluxing. Friends who flux (over-flux?) seem to have a lot more problems with rusting pots, clogged spouts, mechanical, and electrical difficulties than non-fluxers.

  7. #47
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by dondiego View Post
    Why do you feel that the "ripped" is better than than "crosscut"????? Is it the size? Doesn't seem to make much sense.
    I like it better, because it chars a little more quickly (fluffier) and then I can light it off to reduce the smoke. Crosscut chips work okay, too.

    I would imagine any dried, clean hardwood would work good. Elm is what I happen most often around here. All my oak trees are very healthy presently.
    It ain't rocket science, it's boolit science.

  8. #48
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    Since I never melt scrap in my casting pots, I flux. Then when casting, I stir with a wooden stick after adding new clean alloy. Fluxing has long been proven to help with good casting. I see no need to try & work against the casting gods.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
    NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol

  9. #49
    Boolit Master
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    When smelting, I flux with plenty of paraffin in the form of broken candles and stir with a big stainless steel slotted spoon to remove clips and trash. when casting I flux with a little paraffin and stir with a wooden paint stick.

  10. #50
    Boolit Master
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    I've not found paraffin to be very effective. Candles containing stearate work well, and any paraffin in them will extend the dwell time allowing the stearate more time to work. Stearate by itself reduces very aggressively, but it burns off rapidly. I mix stearate and paraffin 1:1 and cast it .25" deep in cupcake tins for handy chips to flux with. I've shielded my alloy from exposure to air by using sawdust, but wasn't really paying attention to any reduction that might have taken place. I'll have to take a closer look. What works better, deciduous or coniferous?

  11. #51
    Boolit Master 6622729's Avatar
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    I'm fluxing wheel weight ingots with bees wax each time I add some to my pot the scraping the junk off the surface. It's worth the couple of minutes and the bees wax smells good.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check