Well just sign me up for 2 of what ever y’all come up with, I like the size mostly. If not overly priced. And I just want 2 total. Not 3.
Well just sign me up for 2 of what ever y’all come up with, I like the size mostly. If not overly priced. And I just want 2 total. Not 3.
I will take 2 of CB logo
I'm currently down for 1 HB Gold but if the price comes in around $25 you can put me down for 3 of the HB Gold and 3 of the CB. Thank You.
Loghhouse you can put me down for 1 CB too.
Put me down for the CB version. Depending on cost, may want 2.
Hello. Will take 3 CB.
Thank you.
Where's that forehead slapping smiley? I just realized, for those who have been asking for dimensions, that Lakehouse made a pretty much life sized image in post #1 and again in post #60. It's the Cast Boolits version of the mold, angled in his diagram, which Grmps squared up in post #69.
Of course your monitor may be set up different from my iPad, but if the image box is 5 1/2" by 3" for Lakehouse's images, or 5 1/2" by 2" for Grmps', the pictured ingot is pretty close to what will drop out of the mold, or no more than five to ten percent smaller if Lakehouse uses the maximum dimensions that will fit six across in two layers in the USPO SFRB.
Last edited by kevin c; 10-10-2018 at 04:31 AM.
Someone needs to measure the ID of an assembled SFRB. I measure the ID at; 6 3/16 " wide, 2 1/16" tall, and 9" deep .
IHMSA # 566 "time sure flies when you're having FUN"
I would be interested in the CB mold.
I STAND CORRECTED, it was the BIGGER box, BUT, the SFRB is smaller and measures 8.5" deep.
Kinda like the 60 year old woman told her 60 year old husband,"do the math", you have a 30 year old girl friend, how many times will 60 go into 30 ? While my 27 year old "boy friend" goes into 60 twice with a good attempt at a third time.
Explain how 6, 2" wide at the base ingots will fit into an 8.5" space , because the OP first post says a total of 12 ingots.
When you "piggy back" or fit ingots into the slots of the bottom ingots , the bottom ingots spread out. One might fit 4 + 4, IF one is really careful and not over fill the mold causing "fins" on the ingots like when casting with to hot an a melt and to hot a mold.
Last edited by Wayne S; 10-04-2018 at 09:19 AM. Reason: more info
IHMSA # 566 "time sure flies when you're having FUN"
Fitting into a SFRB is nice but for me the general shape and weight is what I want for casting.
Still, for what it's worth, perfectly poured ingots from a mold designed to fit maximally in 8 5/8" can have the width of a top [T] and of a wider (because of the draft) bottom [B] that fits the equation:
3(T + B) + (1/2)(B - T) = 8.625", where 3(T + B) describes three ingots with tops up snugged up alternating against three ingots bottoms up, and (B - T) describes the difference in width top versus bottom because of the draft, divided by two to cover the gap on the end of each row caused by the draft on one side of the end ingot that is topside up. Simplifying and moving terms around, you get to 5T = 17.25" - 7B
So, Wayne S, you're right; a two inch base would give an ingot that looks close to an angle iron ingot, with a top just a bit over half an inch. But if the base is, say, something like 1 1/2", the top would be just over 1 1/4" (a bit less if the top edges are radiused).
I almost never pour perfect ingots as I am usually too impatient to level my molds, and my pours are not all the same in the amount of alloy dropped even if they were. So that perfect equation above almost never applies. Fortunately, the imperfect ingots are pretty much always under the maximum dimensions of the completely filled mold, so what's being proposed should still fit in the box, albeit in a sloppy fashion (unless the new gang molds are like the ones from Lyman and Lee that I have, and maybe others, where the individual molds can be over poured to create a set of joined ingots: those probably wouldn't fit). I suppose that if there is enough space in the box, I'll stuff it with newspaper, charge the buyer by actual weight of the contents, and call it good.
ETA: apologies for the math. I get carried away sometimes.
ETA again because I got the wrong equation. Getting old...
Last edited by kevin c; 10-15-2018 at 03:04 AM.
"Everything old is new again" This ingot mould thing has been done before, with a 4 ingot mold. To ship in a SFRB the ingot should be 1.5" x 5.25" at the base. Leave enough draft for it to fall out of the mould well. And you have a 2.5lb or therabout ingot that fits very well in a SFRB for shipping, if you are so inclined.
Is that the original Red Neck Gold? Never saw one before. Is it dumped just by hand, or is there a handle that uses those holes on one tab? Any cooling issues? Did you find the categories molded on top useful?
Last edited by kevin c; 10-09-2018 at 04:27 AM.
Those are the "tabs" I was trying to describe earlier. If you wear gloves you can just pick up and flip, if not using gloves you can grab with channel locks or some other sort of pliers.
I have a mold with tabs and wearing gloves I have no problem picking up, turning to side table and dumping. I also have angle iron bar mold that is the same way. That is typically ~ 6 pounds per pour.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
I don’t care if it fits neatly in a sfrb or not. Are there really that many of us SHIPPING our lead somewhere?!
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Maybe not, but it's nice to have the option if you do ship. I currently have a lot of mini loaf pan ingots like dragon813's; they look like gold bar ingots (I cast them at my club, and am getting a bit tired of the "too bad that's not real gold" comments from the curious). I haven't shipped any in quantity in one box but am thinking mine would need careful packaging to arrive safely, maybe needing elaborate wooden bracing inside the MFRB's.
Reading here, I saw the suggestion of packing ingots of the right shape (angle iron or the ingots proposed here) inside SFRB's and then packing the SFRB's inside a MFRB. Sounds more secure, faster and easier.
For speed casting, I'm thinking the new ingots will be better than mine because they weigh more than my one pounders so loading the pot will be less frequent but will not take as long to warm up as the three plus pound mini loafs. They bridge the top of the pot for preheating which helps fast heating since they will actually be in contact with the pot rather than the housing, and will sit securely with little chance falling in and splashing lead all over me and my work area. The thinner cross section is easier to grab with pliers (the three pounders are awkward to handle), means a faster melt once in the pot, and the longer length means I can carefully lower rather than dropping them in.
Better for me all around, which is why I am so interested in this, but of course, YMMV!
Seems mine got missed earlier, Please put me down for 2 CB
I could care less if they fit into a USPS box. They just need to stack on a shelf and look "cool".
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |