There are LOTS of options.
I'm a little surprised the underlying finish came off, that stuff is pretty tough.
I'm sure someone will say ceracoat but I'm not a big fan of that stuff.
Brownells has several options including gun kote that I've used with good results.
Parkerizing is an excellent option.
Bead blasting and bluing will give you something that at least looks like the original finish but it will not be as tough.
Robar has some outstanding finishes but they will not meet your "inexpensive" criteria.
If I only wanted to do it once, I would spend the money for Robar's NP3 plus.
Birdsong Black T is tough but also fairly expensive.
I'm sure there are other options.
Last edited by Petrol & Powder; 07-19-2018 at 06:28 PM.
ceracoat is the most durable cheap finish. as for the melonite, it didnt come off, just the colorization from the process did. melonite and tennifer are heat treat processes, not finishes.
Perhaps it had been blasted prior to the 'capt'n america' ****. Don't know how folks do some things they do to GUNS! Toys yes, guns no.
Saw one on line yesterday that was coated to look like star wars gun. NO! Child will think its a toy.
I'd say any of the above would work fine, You CAN get Gun Kote or similar in a rattle can which if you are careful, strip and clean it well, it will hold up decently.
Rust blue is sexy and tough. Takes a while, but pretty foolproof. Besides, who has a rust blued Flock?
"In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"
I think that will work nicely.
cerakote displays the tougher finish of all.....armacoat,duracoat.....cerakote has the greatest resistance to abrasion.
^ i always hate tests like that. if they dont have the guts to tell you who the competitors were, its just another tv type bs infomertial.
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I am with you, results such as this, really do not provide any thing that is useful. It is marketing Hype.
For any comparative test, you need to outline how it was done, against what standards were measurements taken and compared, so that people can determine for themselves if actual results were meaningful for end use applications.
I have seen plenty of such hipe over many years, and this is the only way people can hide behind a published results without getting sued.
i get that, its only some graphics, but it is a well known fact that cerakote is by far more resistant to abrasion's cycles. not for nothing most refinishing shop's uses the '''cooked''' cerakote version.
all my comp handguns are cerakote refinished .
some among them got their nose dragged in kydex holsters; draw-re-holstering for couple years...and i'm 100% positive that nothing else will ever be apply on my guns. got one 34 who got armacoated this a decade ago.it did not lasted for long . most refinishing products MAY LAST, but the paint must be babyed,otherwise it won't last.
cerakote displays this ceramic outer layer. virtually impossible to scuff unless you really wants to....
Cerakote's big claim to fame is that it is easily applied by the average home/hobby user.
It's not a bad product but it has some limitations, mostly it adds a bit too much thickness for applications where close tolerances are needed.
Glockfan,
I fully understand. I am not knocking any product. Ceracote has a great name and performance.
What I don't get is, that the coating is applied to metal to do what? Corrosion resistance, great,.... but surface wear, I don't know so much.
I doubt that any coating has been able to be better than the metal they are coated upon for abrasion resistance.
So I have to assume, that coating, is really mainly for metal protection against corrosion. I am I correct or not??
So I have to assume, that coating, is really mainly for metal protection against corrosion. I am I correct or not??
you're absolutely right Joe. point being, cerakote IS an abrasion-rust protector.
cerakote also resist like an armor to abrasion,and for us shooters , abrasion happens mainly from holstering-drawing the gun repeatedly in the shooting sport various drills ; armacoat, duracoat and such are lost in the dust in favor of cerakote when it comes to this specific protection,
in fact,cerakote adds a good amount of thickness to any part treated with. slides who gets a complete cerakote in and out must be buffed where the slide rides on the frame-rails because it slow the slide down quite some,the assembly being tightened artificially by the cerakote.
see for yourself joe, armacoat,duracoat leaves a very thin layer compared to cerakote ; the advantage of armacoat and duracoat is the color choice and the much smoother finish compared to cerakote.
armacoat offer a wide array of colors, you can even get true anodized colors wich is quite im possible with cerakote given the nature of the mix ceramic-paint. cerakote gets you a kind of mat finish, duracoat-armacoat give more brillance and reflective effect.
this 34 is my only gun with armacoat on it.got to do the job twice in 7 years because it has been into many,many hours of various drills back in the days when i used a regular kydex holster. my 17 has been used maybe more, but look at how the muzzle is free of any abrasion marks.
this is called '''anodized blue''' at armacoat.
this 17 sports the ''stairway blue''' oven'ed cerakote. look at how mat it is.
here is some more infos for those interested .
I really like this stuff. And it goes very well over parkerizing.
https://molyresin.com/
It looks like a Glock again. Good job!
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43PU: make sure you saturate the Parkerizing with some kind of thick oil. LPS3 is what the Brownell's Parkerizing kit comes with, and you need to cover the slide with it and then heat it up with a hair dryer or heat gun so as to open the pores up so the oil gets sucked in. Clean/open Parkerizing will rust just as fast as bare metal if exposed to moisture. The finish is a porous surface treatment meant to hold oil. I have used it extensively to treat grinding fixtures which ran in water based coolant, they never rusted..
Then on to Cerakote. This is by far the best gun paint I have ever used. I would use it to do those grinding fixtures if I still worked there. I have done only one gun so far (CZ82) but it has been shot alot and still has the finish on the slide ways. It is some of the easiest paint to apply I have used and you don't have to coat the surface an inch deep. If you simply cover completely and then cook it works great. I wouldn't hesitate to paint a Glock Slide with it.
I only painted the Slide, Trigger Guard and Frame of this pistol. The Sights, Trigger, Controls, and small parts got blued with cold blue but they weren't that bad to begin with. All these parts were cooked in a Toaster Oven which I also use to cook the powder coating on my boolits.
I have another CZ82 I'm going to do two tone.
Here's pics.
Randy
Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 07-24-2018 at 07:34 PM.
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