Stock refinishing

[Lefty SRH]

I am left handed and I cant seem to find a used rifle I like so Ive kinda decided to have one built.
I want a new “calling rifle” for coyote hunting and Ive always liked the (walnut) Remington BDL style rifles. I have located an appropriate stock but it has the shiney factory finish on it. My plan is to remove the shiney finish and apply a handrubbed oil finish to the wood.
Whats the best way to remove the factory glossy finish? Is using a chemical stripper like acetone harmful to the wood?
Or is it better to sand the finish off?
Thanks

[nekshot]

All my rem 700's get a fine steel wool job. That epoxy like finish allows you to take off until you have a complete dull look. Then I take a cheap oil on small rag and rub hard till you see smoke(well almost). Then I oil the metal and take the same rag over stock and it looks awesome for me and those that see them and they have a good hard finish yet.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I think nekshot has the right idea. Yes, you can chemically strip the original finish, but by rubbing away the shiny finish it will still remain in the pores of the wood and provide a measure of waterproofing. I can't comment on his applied oil, since I don't know what kind of oil it is (other than cheap!), but you might also consider a little carnauba wax.

[anothernewb]

Tru oil or Tung oil make for great stock finishes. takes a few coats, but the results are nice, and fairly durable.

[Lefty SRH]

Nekshot, what kinda if “cheap” oil are you refering to?

[pietro]

.

The thing about Remington stocks with the shiny factory/RKW finish, whether rubbed down to a satin finish or not, is that if the stock ever gets good & wet (like slipping/falling into a water puddle), the finish will be forever toast (unless a precaution is taken).

The reason is Remington NEVER applies the RKW stock finish anywhere except on the external stock surfaces - so the raw wood in the inletting and under the buttplate/buttpad is ready & waiting to absorb the moisture like a dry sponge.

When the wood absorbs moisture through the inletting or butt, it of course expands, ergo also expanding the coat(s) of RKW finish - large wrinkles will soon appear in the stock/finish.

After the wood dries out, it will then also shrink back close the it's original dimensions - but the stock finish will remain expanded/wrinkled.


The precaution I strongly recommend is to apply stock finish to those un-finished internal stock surfaces like inside the inletting, under the BP and inside the spring tunnel in the buttstock (auto shotguns) - until the bare wood there will not accept any more finish.



.

[Lefty SRH]

Pietro, was does RKW stand for?

[Walks]

Pietro,
That's not my experience. I've rubbed off the shine of 5-6 REMINGTON 700 BDL's, quad 0 steel wool (0000). I've hunted with them in the rain in CO & NM in & snow too. I've never done any water proofing. One time I slipped crossing a stream & used my .270WIN RIFLE as a crutch to maintain my balance by sticking my RIFLE butt into the water. It spent the next 3 nights outside the tent. It's in my Gun Safe now, finish intact after 30+yrs. Have 2 other BDL's that still have their finish intact after 40+yrs.

But then I've done a full length glass bed, from the rear action screw to the end of the forend, on each one. And now that I think about it I use two-part epoxy when I screw down the recoil pad after It's final fitting. That last just might seal up the end grain of the buttstock.

[waksupi]

I use Sherwin William's Boat and Aircraft Stripper on the shiny stocks.

[bdicki]

I've used Zip Strip with good results on Berettas.

[eric123]

I use 0000 steel wool or the finest brass wool I can find. I'm on a boiled linseed oil kick lately, but realize it isn't the most durable, I just like the way it looks and feels...

[pietro]

Pietro, was does RKW stand for?

Nobody knows for sure, but "RK" was a code header for several different finishes Remington used, and most likely add the "W" for advertising zip.

Walks, I'm glad to hear you missed out on wrinkling your Remington's finish.


.

[bigted]

Well i gotta say that the bare wood thing is a concern in the unseen areas. I figured out the slight sanded look a long time ago when i got a Browning 22 lever gun on the cheap and hating that flashy finish, i took a used SOS pad to it and after "dulling" it i added gun oil and wiped it very hard till my elbo began acking. Wiping it down i found the finish i wanted.

I have done so with many other guns with this method successfully. I do not know that this method "improves" the chance to absorb water in through the inletting ect. and bubbling the finish ... however ... i do not dunk my guns under water to tempt this to happen.

When living on the coast of Oregon, i hunted in the rain a lot. However as soon as i got home i would spray copious amounts of WD 40 in all the nooks n crannys till dripping (pretty cheap ins) then after it stopped dripping i would go over the whole gun with gun oil in a squeeze bottle. Never had any bubbles nor problems with any bolt gun and always nice n oily when disassembled in winter as was my custom each winter after all hunting ceased. Never rust nor stock warpage.

[bigted]

Guess what i intended saying is the slight rub with a very lite abrasive , thereby dulling that gosh awful shiny surface and oiling it back to a nice rubbed look is a perfect solution to your conundrum. I heartily recommend this over stripping the stock down to just wood and beginning again.

However much work stripping one down is, this is perfectly acceptable manner as well.

[Lefty SRH]

Well, after hearing numerous responses from this site and another (posting the same thread subject) I dont know what route to go.
I received the stock today and is it ever nice looking stock!!! I kinda hate to dull such a nice finish or even strip it......but I dont want a shiney gun in the field.
But I appreciate all the help and suggestions.
I did notice that the entire stock is finished including all the inletting and barrel channel. So right now it seems only logical to dull the finish at this point.
I do like the used SOS pad idea. I wonder how effective a scotch brite pad would be on dulling the finish.
Sounds like I need another stock to just experiment with now......lol
Thanks guys

[redhawk0]

Here is my notes on stock refinishing...take it for what it's worth. I have switched my finish out though. I use Tung Oil and Polyurethane. 2:1

Here's my notes.

redhawk

Refinishing Instructions for Firearm Stocks

These instructions were checked over by Jim Kull who is a professional woodworker and refinisher. He was a guest on the ShootersTalk board in Mid-1999. He was instrumental in teaching us some of the finer points of wood refinishing and his methods have been adapted to suit stock refinishing…..Here we go.
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING....Remove barreled action and any other accessories from the wooden stock. Now you can begin the stripping process. Start by stripping off the old finish with the heaviest can of stripper you can find. The heavier the can, the more stripping chemical that is present. Apply and rub the stripper with a Burgundy 3M pad (ScotchBrite) or Green 3M pad (ScotchBrite). DON’T FORGET TO WEAR RUBBER GLOVES, SAFETY GLASSES, and RESPIRATOR. Use a nylon or brass brush to get into the checkering. After you feel you have all the old finish off, wipe it down (hose it down) with mineral spirits. Let it air dry. (this method requires no sanding and thus removes NO wood). After it is thoroughly dry, check for any left over finish and residues. The next step is to apply your favorite OIL stain with a new white 3M pad (ScotchBrite). Always apply the stain with the direction of the grain of the wood. Let it stand 10-15 minutes and wipe off excess with a clean rag (Used cotton T-shirts work real well).
DO NOT APPLY STAIN DIRECTLY TO CHECKERING. Put stain on a rag and let partially dry before applying to checkering. The checkering will have end grain wood exposed and will soak up more stain then the cross grain wood parts. Dark patches could appear if stain is applied directly to the checkering. Apply multiple coats to the stock until desired depth of color is achieved. Let the stock air dry for minimum of 24 hours. Next is the finish....get a can of your favorite Gloss Polyurethane/Varnish finish. Always use GLOSS. It contains more protective solids. Thin it 2/3 finish with 1/3 mineral spirits, as thin as 50/50 will work fine. Next apply it with your fingers not a rag. You don't want any fuzz particles or dust to get on the stock at this point. Apply 2 LIGHT coats of finish with 2-6 hours between coats(depending on temp and humidity). Then apply the third LIGHT coat and let dry overnight. (DO NOT APPLY FINISH TOO HEAVILY...Don't try to rush the finish process) Next rub stock with a new white 3M pad (ScotchBrite) to keep everything smooth. Tack rag off residue and dust. Then apply another 2 coats 2-6 hours between and then a third to dry overnight then buff with a white pad again....repeat this process until 12-15 coats have been applies. The last coat can be left alone if you like the gloss finish or buff it lightly with a NEW white 3M pad (ScotchBrite) for a satin finish....This will take several days to complete but the results are worth it. After the final coat has dried for 3-5 days apply a good paste wax. Car wax works fine. Buff vigorously with a cotton rag (used T-shirt again) for a nice sheen (this works for both the gloss and satin finish) The wax adds and extra layer of protection.

ScotchBrite to Steel wool conversions….Burgundy = #0… Green = #00… Grey = #000 and White = #0000....

Redhawk

[Lefty SRH]

Thanks Redhawk

[Beerd]

someone in another thread mentioned using spray on Dupli-color Matte Wheel Clearcoat.
..

[ulav8r]

If you decide you like the looks, as is, just give it a heavy coat of paste wax before you take it out hunting. The wax will dry to a dull finish and can be buffed back to a shine when the season is over.

[Lefty SRH]

This rifle will be hunted all year round. Theres no closed season on coyotes where I live.