I got the CH4D first, I was ripping the case head off of every 3rd case. I got an RCBS and it works fine for me. I have been lubing the case with lanolin.
I got the CH4D first, I was ripping the case head off of every 3rd case. I got an RCBS and it works fine for me. I have been lubing the case with lanolin.
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No way CH4D will rip a case apart absent operator error
This short video shows how much faster it is as opposed to the far more expensive Dillion tool. The RCBS tool is a hot mess.
https://youtu.be/oFD3jJ9AEXk
I use the CH4D tool and a touch of Lee case lube. Adjusting is critical. I also have a chamfer bit for a cordless drill or a flat bottom tapered cutter that I can just go once around the edge of the primer pocket with. I get about 2 or 3 "failures" per hundred. Mostly at the stage where I'm seating a primer and the pocket is still tight, and yes the occasional head or lip gets damaged, I can see that happen and toss in the scrap bucket. If only trimming was near as fast and easy.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
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I've been using my sizing lube on my RCBS swage kit. It works well for me, but took me a while to figure it out. What is with the instructions? They say to turn until it bottoms, then back off? At that point the tool doesn't even touch anything! I now set mostly by feel. I turn it in until the die touches, give it another half a turn or so. I then run a case in, and turn it in farther if it doesn't bottom in the pocket. I repeat until I feel it bottom in the primer pocket, and fine tune from there.
I am glad for the hardened rod, bent a couple before.
I used the RCBS tool once. I swaged the pockets on 500 .30-06 cases, 500 .45ACP cases & 500 .223 cases.
Over swaged the .223 cases, ruined them all. Primers fell out. Gave me a bad case of Tennis Elbow too.
Went back to using the LYMAN primer pocket reamer.
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I stole 3,000 30-06 cases many years ago for a very very low price. They ended up costing me about 5 cents apiece. I had a Garand to feed and I bought a 8x57 Mauser for which I had no cases. I reformed a thousand of the 30-06 cases in a set of 8 MM dies and trimmed them all to the same length. Then I swaged all the primer pockets with a Dillon swager and reamed out the flashing above the primer pocket.
Final chamfering and deburring with inspection and I had all the cases I will ever need for this Mauser. Then I went out and got another Garand, converted the 8x57 to 6.5x55MM Sweede and found an excellent commercial mauser at an insane low price.
The Mauser I just bought had a short chamber and would not accept a normal length round. I had it reamed out and now I am looking for some decent glass to mount on that rifle
Pax Nobiscum Dan (Crash) Corrigan
Currently casting, reloading and shooting: 223 Rem, 6.5x55 Sweede, 30 Carbine, 30-06 Springfield, 30-30 WCF, 303 Brit., 7.62x39, 7.92x57 Mauser, .32 Long, 32 H&R Mag, 327 Fed Mag, 380 ACP. 9x19, 38 Spcl, 357 Mag, 38-55 Win, 41 Mag, 44 Spcl., 44 Mag, 45 Colt, 45 ACP, 454 Casull, 457 RB for ROA and 50-90 Sharps. Shooting .22 LR & 12 Gauge seldom and buying ammo for same.
Check out "the worlds cheapest trimmer". It is inexpencive and does a great job. after sizing, it indexes from shoulder which is what happens to brass when firing. If you think about it it is the way a trimmer should work. I use the wrap like that they use when drawing blood wrapped on fingers to maintain a good grip when running into trimmer I use in drill press. Wrap is available at tractor supply several rolls for a couple bucks. It is used to wrap horses legs. once set it does n't take to process a box of500 rounds
I usually cut away the primer pocket crimp, but have a Herter's and an RCBS primer pocket swager. I just run a candle or lump off beeswax over the swager to prevent sticking. I have only swaged large rifle .308 and 30-06 military. Reaming the crimp gives a slight bevel that helps when priming 308 on a progressive tool. I now use an RCBS electric for primer pocket uniforming and crimp reaming, along with case mouth chamfer, but the Lee Chamfer Tool works well for primer pocket crimp. I have used the Lyman Primer Pocket Reamer but it did not seem to hold up(25 years ago?).
I know the RCBS press mounted primer pocket swager was slow and the upward tug on the press handle was annoying, however the processed primer pockets were perfect! Correct primer tension, beautiful radiused entry. The Dillon is smooth, and fast, but you can easily ruin a pocket without having perfect alignment, and I don't care for the brass shavings from some of the pockets. It does not create the sooth rounded mouth on the pocket either.
Duke
If you adjust the RCBS tool properly, it works fine. The only problem I ever had was with an improper adjustment. Once I got I got it right, I've never had to re-adjust.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |