Grinding stone shank extender

[abunaitoo]

All I can find here are grinding stones with short shanks.
Shank is 1/4" di and 1 1/2" long.
I need it longer to reach inside a hole.
I was going to epoxy an longer rod it into a tube to make it longer.
Problem with this is it will not fit into the grinder.
Is there a way, or a tool, that can do this????

[Minerat]

Now about getting a craftsman 1/4 drive extension the length you need. Tap the hole where the ball retainer for the ratchet goes and installing a set screw to lock the grinding stone shank down in the ratchet end. Then chuck it in a drill and grind away. I jury rig things a lot most don't work but what the heck, ya got to try right.

[kenton]

Get a tube with a 1/4'' dia inside diameter and epoxy it half way on the shank. Then use the other side of the tube to epoxy another 1/4 dia rod to make your extension. Be aware that many die grinder stones have a 6mm shank (.2362) so that may affect your choice of tube. If you need it, you can get 1/4 or 6mm dowel pins made from hardened steel in varying lengths from industrial supply stores or amazon.

[SOFMatchstaff]

What diameter stone and hole size? If you're using a high speed die grinder, be very careful about using an extention, the stones don't take an out of balance-round condition well at all. In a drill motor it would be safer. I prefer solder over epoxy. I have removed weld seam in tubing with a rat tail file and a dowel with rough sand paper glued to it. Hole size is the deal breaker there...

[country gent]

Be very carefull "extending" a grinding stones shank in a die grinder or other machine. run out balance are magnified by the added length. These stones can and will blow up running out of balance or untrue. Also be ware the budget points with aluminum shanks these can bend at high rpms when out of balance or not trued up.

[abunaitoo]

Not really a hole, but close.
I'm trying to take the bell mouth out of a lathe chuck.
I was looking for an easy way out.
I'll try the suggestion from kenton.
If not, I'll make a holder.

[country gent]

Grinding a lathe chuck is easier than most make it seem.
Heres how we did it. there is a fixture for loading the chuck scroll available. we used a roller bearing inner race around 1 1/2" od and a hole in the center. We had a mount made for a die grinder in the tool post and used a standard mounted wheel.
Clean chuck well scroll and jaws along with mount. Maksure everything is clean and mounted correctly on d series make sure the 0 marks are alighned. Chuck bearing race in back part of jaws if removeable jaws use the inner jaws t hold bearing race first. Grind outer jaws or portion of jaws to clean up. move race to new ground area and grind back portion thru the race hole. If more length is needed angle grinder so spindle and nut clear bushing and dress wheel back to flat. if removeable jaws grind .002-.005 bigger than outer jaws, if fixed jaws then blend in to match outer.

The race needs to be snugged up tight but not crushed, this loads the scroll in the right direction and takes play out of the scroll jaws. Mounting to zero and using the socket marked zero keeps everything the same. Different sockets do affect zero repeatability some. As does the different positions on a d series mount. Grind slow and easy no more than .001 a pas and allow for spring back . The die grinders bearing play may take several passes to remove spring. Lay out ink helps see the touch and progress. dressing the wheel often also helps. set compound at 45* and feed there that gives .0005 increments to feed by.
I have ground chucks in and had less than .0005 run out when done

[abunaitoo]

Got it done.
Glad I didn't spend anything to do it.
Had all the parts I needed.
Used a brass tube and soldered the extension to the stone.
Very little wobble, so all was good.
I slowed down the grinder with a cheap speed control for table saws.
Worked OK. Would have liked it to slow it down a little more.
Made up a jig to hold the jaws out at the top. Rigged the grinder to the cross slide.
Took only a few passes to clean it up.
Works good now.
Run out go better, but it's an old lathe, and I don't do precision work on it.
Thanks for the help.