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Thread: Need a machinist to drill and tap a redding T-7 toolhead from 7/8-14 to 1-1/4-12

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by JSnover View Post
    Zbench is right on about the tolerance. Look at how much shell and the shell holder are able to float in the ram. Even +/- .010" probably wouldn't hurt anything.
    Depends on whether you do "nice work" or not. Having an old timer tell you as a kid that you do nice work meant a lot . Also the 7 setups....there are tricks one learns that would make most if the issue with that go away. A mandrel that would slide into a bored hole under the part and have a center for the tailstock on the other end would line it up the 7 times quite nicely .

    I have watched plenty of folks run a tap in "way off" .

    Bill
    Both ends WHAT a player

  2. #22
    Tell you how bad it is, my machinist (retired three times, master machinist, millwright who spent 20 years repairing manual machine equipment) died five years ago. Finding even a talented part time manual machinist that wasn't already working on a couple of WW1 or WW2 vintage machines in his garage thus too busy for my needs. After three years of looking for someone finally sold my 60" tool room lathe, Bridgeport, Harrig surfacing machine and other than my mill and a few other simple to use machines if can't model it in software and render G Code am totally lost.

    Wish I had the time to have stood next to my guy the five years had him as our deal was he ran machines for me when needed at very fair hourly rate in return for use of machines when I didn't need them. He kept them in tip top shape on his clock as all he had at home was a hobby level machine in corner of garage. Unfortunatly running a business and keeping crews busy couldn't take the time to let him teach me to operate the machines well enough to justify the floor space. Don't know what we are going to do in twenty years for some jobs that take talent rather than key strokes.
    For the time is coming when people will not endure sound teaching, but having itching ears they will accumulate for themselves teachers to suit their own passions

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willbird View Post
    Depends on whether you do "nice work" or not. Having an old timer tell you as a kid that you do nice work meant a lot . Also the 7 setups....there are tricks one learns that would make most if the issue with that go away. A mandrel that would slide into a bored hole under the part and have a center for the tailstock on the other end would line it up the 7 times quite nicely .

    I have watched plenty of folks run a tap in "way off" .

    Bill
    If I were to set that up in a lathe I'd use a short piece of threaded rod as the mandrel for location. With the right thread class the holes are as near dead-on as you'd need but I still believe the mill setup I described would be simpler. Use the press itself to locate the holes as it was designed.
    I personally wouldn't settle for .010 tolerance because it's so easy to avoid having that much slop.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by JSnover View Post
    If I were to set that up in a lathe I'd use a short piece of threaded rod as the mandrel for location. With the right thread class the holes are as near dead-on as you'd need but I still believe the mill setup I described would be simpler. Use the press itself to locate the holes as it was designed.
    I personally wouldn't settle for .010 tolerance because it's so easy to avoid having that much slop.
    Yea, .01 out out square would be atrocious . One good thing about doing it in the mill is that you would not just be parroting any error from original mfg. If you were going to do it all day every day one could probably make a rough and finish tap like they do ACME. The BP in back gear probably has enough torque to run the tap....the problem is finding a good way to hold and drive it. One off stuff usually involves just "getting it done". Many many times over the years the first time I ran a job or part we just got it done somehow, then if there was a re order we refined the process, maybe bought more specialized tooling, or made a fixture or fixtures.

    I see on another post on the board Buckshot showed a similar turret setup in the lathe to be rebored and threaded, his customer maybe just wanted a few holes done out of whatever it offered.
    Both ends WHAT a player

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willbird View Post
    Yea, .01 out out square would be atrocious . One good thing about doing it in the mill is that you would not just be parroting any error from original mfg. If you were going to do it all day every day one could probably make a rough and finish tap like they do ACME. The BP in back gear probably has enough torque to run the tap....the problem is finding a good way to hold and drive it. One off stuff usually involves just "getting it done". Many many times over the years the first time I ran a job or part we just got it done somehow, then if there was a re order we refined the process, maybe bought more specialized tooling, or made a fixture or fixtures.

    I see on another post on the board Buckshot showed a similar turret setup in the lathe to be rebored and threaded, his customer maybe just wanted a few holes done out of whatever it offered.
    And that's really all I'm saying. Unless there were issues with the original holes they'll be as 'right' as they were before, just bigger.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check