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Thread: How can I clean corroded 7 1/2 - 8 bird shot

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    How can I clean corroded 7 1/2 - 8 bird shot

    I sifted and panned about 20 folgers coffee cans full of white or light grey bird shot. I tried tumbling small batches in the harbor freight rock polisher. the thing is pretty much junk. I didn't overload it by that much and after 3 loads the thing is toast.
    Anyway is there any kind of liquid cleaner or chemical that I could soak them in? I want to load them up in some shotgun shells. I don't want to breathe in the puff of white lead oxide or whatever that stuff is.
    Any ideas or suggestions would be helpful.
    Thank you in advance.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master RogerDat's Avatar
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    I too was wondering about this question. I was thinking it might take washing with water and ???? And there is a secondary question. What to do to prevent new oxidation. I think new shot is covered with something to prevent oxidation and sticking to each other. Maybe graphite?
    Je suis Charlie
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this way of getting casting material somehow.
    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    Throw in a spoon full of play sand, tumble , then re-graphite. Should be good to go..

  4. #4
    Boolit Master copdills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyFlatline View Post
    Throw in a spoon full of play sand, tumble , then re-graphite. Should be good to go..
    sounds like a winner to me , should work, birds, squirrels and rabbits won't know the difference

  5. #5
    Boolit Master RogerDat's Avatar
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    Tumble dry or wet?
    Je suis Charlie
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this way of getting casting material somehow.
    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    Dry. I have to say something else because my answer was to short,,,

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    After I make my homemade shot, I tumble it with Lundmark floor wax, and get a good shiny hard finish that has kept my shot nice looking.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    The sand will be contaminated with lead oxide. I am tempted to use oxidized shot to make lead picrate. I am reloading primers.
    QUIS CUSTODIET IPSOS CUSTODES?

  9. #9
    Boolit Master RogerDat's Avatar
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    I have a FART so I'll give that a try with say 5# of shot.
    Je suis Charlie
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this way of getting casting material somehow.
    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    I had a few boxes of oxidized pellets for pellet guns and I washed with a little dish soap, dumped the water on my sand hill range and then added a little light machine oil to the pellets and swirled. No more oxidation or lead dust. I don't store them in my mouth while hunting like I did when I was a kid though.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master RogerDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dondiego View Post
    I had a few boxes of oxidized pellets for pellet guns and I washed with a little dish soap, dumped the water on my sand hill range and then added a little light machine oil to the pellets and swirled. No more oxidation or lead dust. I don't store them in my mouth while hunting like I did when I was a kid though.
    Makes me wonder if a little dawn & water in the brass tumbler would do the job. Have to be well dried afterwards before storage but I don't think that would be a problem. Might be easier on the drum liner than sand too.
    Je suis Charlie
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this way of getting casting material somehow.
    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Might be as simple as an old towel and a little oil agitate by gripping each end of towel in one hand and raise and lower. towel and the agitation should remove corrosion and the light oil hold it in the towels fibers. dawn and water might work also for this. keep towel good and damp to hold dust and discard towel when done.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy

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    I have done TONS of this shot, best way I have found is to fill a 5 gal pail half full of shot and add water to just cover the shot then add a cup or so of lime away, I use the Smart &final Lime Gone as its cheaper by far. Let it fizz for awhile and agitate some. It then goes into a sturdy tumbler for half hour or so, add enough water to make a slurry and some more lime away if it needs any. after its clean and black again I rinse it in an old sieve(carb cleaner basket) until the water is clear and put it out in the sun to dry in an old sheet pan. Vegas heat in the summer does it Quick.

    If the shot comes out of the first soak and fizz process looking good, you might be able to for go the wet tumble phase, I like the way the wet tumble finishes the surface. After its all dry, then it goes back in the tumbler with a teaspoon of graphite. come out like new. This all takes awhile, and it doesnt hurt to let it soak over night.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Don’t do it DRY!!!!!!! Too much oxides to breathe!!!! Not healthy.

    CLR2 or LimeAway attack oxides of all types. I use it for a lot of corroded metals and stuff. Just let it do it’s business and then rinse and dry. Should be pretty clean. Then add your graphite “goop” of whatever you want.

    Your left-over liquid will be contaminated with PbO2 and other carp, so be careful where you dump it! NOT in the garden!!!!!!!!

    Bangerjim

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy OldBearHair's Avatar
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    On another thread, I told about Hi-Tek Gold on .177 pellets. They don't have dust anymore.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    Don’t do it DRY!!!!!!! Too much oxides to breathe!!!! Not healthy.

    CLR2 or LimeAway attack oxides of all types. I use it for a lot of corroded metals and stuff. Just let it do it’s business and then rinse and dry. Should be pretty clean. Then add your graphite “goop” of whatever you want.

    Your left-over liquid will be contaminated with PbO2 and other carp, so be careful where you dump it! NOT in the garden!!!!!!!!

    Bangerjim
    Doesn't lead come from the ground. But you warrant dumping caustic substances down the drain??

    Some of y'all go way over the top. I took the OP at a small amount of shot that was oxidized, 3 to 5 pounds. A few tablespoons of sand and all is clean,,,,but the sand is now contaminated..Right... Can't breath the fumes, if you stand over it while it is tumbling and are in a air tight room, well maybe. My tumblers run in the open air. Some of y'all are pushing this to the extremes..Kinda like fake news.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I just plan to live a lot longer than some of you breathing un-needed PbO2 dust......even in small amounts.

    I must coorect you.........I said NOTHING about dumping it down the drain. You can dispose of it any way that is compatible with your local regs. I just said do not pour in your garden!!!!!!

    Yes Pb comes from the ground. So do many other things we use. Crude oil, Cd, U, Ra, Hg, etc.

    Oxides of many things can be far MORE dangerous than the primary element itself. PbO2 is the dangerous stuff.

    Not fake news. Just facts about human physiology. And our mortality.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Best not to tell anyone about it,like your neighbour,your exwife,your teen children,or anyone else likely to drop a dime on you.At the very least ,official interest will result in a cleanup,and costly testing by a lab.The narcs can detect all this stuff in parts per billion nowdays,same warning goes for poisoning trees ,its all detectable.Same reason ,never dump it in a sewer.Your trash pickup is one method thats not likely detectable,once its off your property.Everyone casting lead produces toxic waste,so be careful.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    Put a heavy garbage bag into a 5 gallon bucket. Pour the waste water into it. Let the water evaporate off, dispose of the bag.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master RogerDat's Avatar
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    The two ways reloaders are most likely to elevate our lead levels are primer residue in brass or from firing indoors. Casters also have to be concerned about the oxides on the lead. I don't put human waste in the garden because it carries health risks to eating the food so I guess I wouldn't put lead oxide contaminated waste into the garden for the same reason. I would want to avoid breathing it too.

    I put a dollop of mineral spirits in the dry media before I tumble brass to avoid breathing the dust containing primer residue. My blood lead levels dropped after that. Sure not interested in breathing white dust directly off of lead shot.

    I like the idea of evaporation of the used water in a plastic bag. Between dump having a liner and plastic bag wrapping any dry residue I would say this approach should mitigate risks without undue hardship. Will try the bucket and Lyme Away approach on a small batch to see how it works. Would be interesting to know what the "fizzing" is doing as far as changing the oxides and how safe it is to dispose of resulting chemicals afterwards.

    I'm on a well and septic system as are my neighbors, makes one a little more connected to what gets dumped on the ground or down a drain. If I had a bit more property as a buffer it might make a significant difference. But there is no way I'm dumping 5 gallon of contaminated water on my small garden. No more likely to do that than I am to lick the floor around the casting bench.

    I'm doing more like 50# of shot so my waste stream would be more than a single tumbler full of water.
    Je suis Charlie
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this way of getting casting material somehow.
    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check