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Thread: MEC 650 trip rod sitting too high

  1. #1
    Boolit Master RogerDat's Avatar
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    MEC 650 trip rod sitting too high

    Watched this video on setting the trip rod so that it releases and allows the catch to latch the bar when the handle is pulled. My issue is the trip rod is up so far it doesn't allow the latch to engage. It is always in the "release" position.

    The MEC video.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PzswDuPyGc

    The amount the rod sticks up in the first picture is well beyond what I can adjust out by bending the lower guide in the second picture. The MEC video shows that rod as not sticking up at all with press handle down.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    If I push down just a bit on the latch so that the vertical trip rod compresses its spring the operation seems to work well but with the rod supposed to be flush with the top bracket it is up too far to work automatically. No idea what to do about it either.

    Wondered if maybe the bolt in the base was in the wrong hole or something. Except that I can adjust the rest to work correctly.
    Last edited by RogerDat; 07-11-2018 at 04:55 PM.
    Je suis Charlie
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this way of getting casting material somehow.
    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master RogerDat's Avatar
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    Phone call to MEC and they suggested I try to "open up" the top bracket where it attaches to press body to raise bracket on the trip rod, then tip the little C part that the trip rod goes through down enough to get hole back in alignment. Maybe split the adjustment to be partly raising the top bracket and partly bending down the bottom guide bracket. Correction the drop tubes going through bracket will raise the latch and charge bar guide assembly as much as the bracket is bent upward.

    Seems to me if the bracket on top gets raised to the top of the pin the bracket itself would prevent the latch from coming down enough to lock the charge bar to the side.

    I was also going to replace that latch spring but at $5.50 shipping for a $1.87 part I may just wait until I have something else to order along with it.

    Also not sure how critical this is. It seems to prevent dumping a powder charge by locking open when there is no hull in station 2. Which should only happen with the first hull and when the last hull being loaded passes station 2 and moves to station 3. Come right down to it I could probably trigger the latch with my finger at those two points. Now will I remember to? That is a different question.
    Je suis Charlie
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this way of getting casting material somehow.
    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master RogerDat's Avatar
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    The more I look at information on this setting the more I think I'm just dealing with a strong trip rod spring against a weak latch spring. The trip rod is supposed to be "flush" on the down stroke as I understand it. This allows the charge bar to latch and keep the bar under the powder rather than dropping it into an empty station 2.

    So what I am looking at is:
    • Making sure the charge bar guide comes down far enough for the latch to get up to catch the charge bar. Bring top bracket down just enough to make that happen.
    • Insure that the prime and powder drop station come down to touch the primer pocket base.
    • Possibly use a tiny lock washer as a shim on the bottom of the trip rod so that lower bracket pulls down sooner.
    • Possibly cut the end off of a spring with a long end hook to give the latch a stronger spring.



    I will also need to hope the teeny tiny c clips from the hardware store are the right size for the one that went sailing last night when I was taking the trip rod out. I know enough to do those things on the floor on a large towel so they can't go flying off to bounce around behind stuff and get lost. Just wasn't thinking, and getting on the floor isn't as much fun as it was a couple of decades ago. However I have now been reminded it is even less fun to be down there on the floor looking for a part the size of a gnats nads on a speckled epoxy paint floor. Oh well at least all those metal boxes have been cleaned behind now. Sigh
    Je suis Charlie
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this way of getting casting material somehow.
    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Lagamor's Avatar
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    Check out Shotgunworld.com. Excellent MEC advise over there as well several MEC exclusive threads.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master RogerDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lagamor View Post
    Check out Shotgunworld.com. Excellent MEC advise over there as well several MEC exclusive threads.
    Thanks, have been reading a bunch of posts over there as they tend to be near the top for Google results.
    Currently adjusted to release well and I just need to touch the latch with my finger a bit to get a good solid catch, release on down stroke with shell in station 2 is working fine.

    I just used JB Weld to replace threaded cap for powder mounted on the carrier, with a load of shot and powder weight pushing down the latch might work without a finger assist. Wire bore brush and steel wool to clean the shot drop tube. Hopefully will prevent shot bridging issue. May get a brief spritz of silicone spray lube down the tube and a sprinkle of graphite if I can find it in powder form. Otherwise they make a spray version that is "dry" after application.



    After that we shall see what we shall see. Will probably post back here how the JB Weld holds up. If it works could save someone some money in repairs, if it doesn't then forewarned is forearmed.
    Je suis Charlie
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this way of getting casting material somehow.
    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check