ADvertise hereRotoMetals2Lee PrecisionMidSouth Shooters Supply
Graf & SonsInline FabricationStainLess Steel MediaTitan Reloading

Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: confessions of a hippy type coating guy

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    nekshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    swmissouri
    Posts
    2,804

    confessions of a hippy type coating guy

    This morn as I was waiting for my batch of brass(dip cartridge head in powder and bump to knock off excess and stick mouth first into block of wood holder) to get baked I thought how easy this is. When I first heard of this bake on thing I went to HF and got a container of red. Took a plastic butter container and stole some airsoft balls from kids armament of air soft guns and put them in container with a bunch of red powder. Drilled holes in blocks of wood for nose of boolit. dumped some boolits into container and shook and swirled (could watch a tv morn exercise show as you do this) and then put the boolits nose into wood. Turn cheap walmart stove wide open and place wood on shelves. Sit back with a cup of coffee and flash lite and as soon as the red gets shiney I turn the dial to 400 degrees. Look at clock and give them 7 or 8 minutes. Take them out and dump water on them and when dry put them in jars and shootem. I never had a failure of any kind! I still use HF red and the same stove and except for looking at clock when item turns glossy red I am free of panic or questions that make you wonder if I am doing this right or am I going to get a pile of squad. I have done alot of other items that would fit into stove. Nice and simple void of a list of dos and dont's . That is the hippy way from what I know. This works for me and I would not be ashamed to shoot against any other boolit dipper. Really simple!
    Look twice, shoot once.

  2. #2
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Farmerville,Louisiana
    Posts
    86
    Are you painting boolits or cartridges or both?

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    1,389
    I would make two points first just because the dial says 400 dosen't mean the oven is at 400 or that the oven stays at 400 during the cooking time. You need a good thermometer like a Taylor Glass Oven Guide about $12.

    The second point is timing starts when the actual object reaches 400 degrees not the oven temperature or when the coating starts to flow. The polymer will flow under 200 degrees and who know how long it will take your oven to reach 400 degrees? maybe never. As per the manufacturer, most powders require 10 minutes at temperature usually 400 degrees for the proper cross linking of the polymer to occur. Most add a little extra time to be sure. Just because the bullets come out with a gloss finish and you can beat them flat does not mean the polymer is properly cured and has reached its full hardness and durability, a popular misconception on this site.

    Just my two cents, but if you are happy with what is coming out so be it. By the way I grew up in the 60'a and hippies were non-violent, so they would have no need of bullets

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Prineville, Oregon
    Posts
    292
    I had never thought of powder coating the head of the cartridge. Does that tighten up loose primer pockets? Back in my young and foolish days I'd have been interested in something to tighten up those pockets after a few of those 65K psi loads...

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    frkelly74's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    SAGINAW
    Posts
    1,636
    It is scaring me to think of annealing the case heads. or do I misunderstand?
    Quis Quis Quis, Quis Liberat Canes

    /////////BREAKING NEWS////////////
    Millions and millions of American shooters and sportsmen got up, went to work, contributed to society in useful and meaningful ways all over the nation and shot no one today! How do they controll themselves?? Experts Baffled....

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    nekshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    swmissouri
    Posts
    2,804
    Quote Originally Posted by Hossfly View Post
    Are you painting boolits or cartridges or both?
    I use the powder coating on 75 percent of my shooting boolits. I have 8x57's and now a 8x51. The 51 is really hard to tell the differance, so the red bases stand out like a sore thumb.
    Look twice, shoot once.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    nekshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    swmissouri
    Posts
    2,804
    I posted this to help newby's not get caught up in trying for perfect details in process. We need to keep the hobby fun and safe so more and more of the city cowboys and cowgirls get in it. This is not a knock on those who love meticulous details. It is simply my experience at powder coating. I also found that over 1500 fps I also lube the pc'd boolit with Simple Lube and generally the groups shrink a little bit. Enough for me to go to the extra effort. Cheers to u'all
    Look twice, shoot once.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    nekshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    swmissouri
    Posts
    2,804
    I generally don't get powder in primer hole. I simply dab the cartridge bottom into powder about 1/4 inch. Then I tap against the plastic container as I lift out of container and then the mouth into wood block. I sometimes use the full length resizer and some of the red gets rubbed off but I still can still easily see the red. I really should not be typing because the meds really screw me up but I still like to act normal like I used to be. Oh well to each his own!
    Look twice, shoot once.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    640
    I don't understand what's going on here... are you baking loaded cartridges?

  10. #10
    Boolit Master




    Bzcraig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Nampa, ID
    Posts
    3,665
    Quote Originally Posted by frkelly74 View Post
    It is scaring me to think of annealing the case heads. or do I misunderstand?
    Sounds to me like he is annealing the case head as well.
    "Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same......." - Ronald Reagan

    "It is foolish and wrong to mourn the men who died. Rather, we should thank God that such men lived." - George Patton

    The second amendment is a nail on which hangs a picture of freedom - member Alex 4x4 Tver, Russia

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    358
    I think I smell a likely over-reaction to a little case head heating.

    This is only like 7 or 8 minutes in an air temp of around 400 F. My first reaction was "heck I would not worry about too much softening of the head of an 8 x 51 case".

    Then a quick web search found:

    "The higher the annealing temperature, the shorter the time required to anneal. The grain structure of the brass begins to change - indicating the start of annealing - at just under 500 degrees Fahrenheit. At 600 degrees F, brass will anneal in one hour. At 800 degrees F, brass will take only a few seconds to anneal."

    So now that we know that nothing happens under 500 F (and certainly nothing in the short time span of a powder coat cook), this sounds like a neat way to put a durable color indicator on the head of your brass.

    Now, I seem to be under the impression that a red base may have been used to indicate a proof load. So my only come back to the Op would be something like: hey nekshot, maybe you might want to use something other than red.

    Thanks nekshot.

    For the quick second guessers, just think how easy it was to find something closer to fact vs. hype.

    And as far as his original attitude that seemed to be "look how easy it is" without excess effort or precision, I can testify that "the least amount of cooking that gets reliable good results with a smash test" has worked quite well for me for many many sizable sessions with boolits that I push quite hard.
    Last edited by P Flados; 07-10-2018 at 11:04 PM.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Prineville, Oregon
    Posts
    292
    nekshot, that's a right fine idea you had on coloring those case heads. I don't have confusion with 8mm's of any kind but I have found it is a real pain to try to pick my 38/40's off the ground from amongst my buddies 44/40's. I'm now gonna' color mine red!

    Sounds like you have a good attitude about makin' boolits. But I'm surprised a fellow such as yourself is still standing those powder-coated things up one at a time. I've been shaking all the loose powder off in a sieve and dumping them out on a tray lined with those plastic waffle-looking hot pads, 'cause I just don't have the patience to handle them that much. Haven't noticed any reduction in accuracy but I'm not that good a shot either so maybe I just can't tell the difference.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master






    Lloyd Smale's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    munising Michigan
    Posts
    13,822
    I would never bake a piece of brass and don't really see any need to color my brass heads. If I did a bit of spray paint or a magic marker would be my choice.
    Soldier of God, sixgun junky, Retired electrical lineman. My office was a 100 feet in the air, closer to God the better

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    640
    Quote Originally Posted by Lloyd Smale View Post
    I would never bake a piece of brass and don't really see any need to color my brass heads. If I did a bit of spray paint or a magic marker would be my choice.
    Yeah, A Sharpie would be much easier and quicker.

  15. #15
    Vendor Sponsor

    Smoke4320's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Right here ..at least I was a minute ago
    Posts
    3,745
    ^^^ and how long does it take to anneal a sharpie ?
    I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!

    http://www.bing.com/search?q=nuke50&...7ADE&FORM=QBLH

    Selling Hi Quality Powdercoating Powder

    PULSAR night vision and thermal dealer !!!
    PM me for a good deal

    I am not crazy my mom had me tested

    Theres a fine line between genius and crazy .. I'm that line
    and depending on the day I might just step over that line !!!

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    nekshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    swmissouri
    Posts
    2,804
    I tried the magic color route and they all came off from handling except at the head lettering and if I have to pick up a piece of brass and look for the color in the lettering I might as well not do anything. I prefer easy!
    Look twice, shoot once.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Cypress, Republic of Texas
    Posts
    3,043
    Quote Originally Posted by Smoke4320 View Post
    ^^^ and how long does it take to anneal a sharpie ?
    not long . . . but you can only do it once per sharpie
    NRA Life
    USPSA L1314
    SASS Life 48747
    RVN War Games, 2nd Place

  18. #18
    Boolit Master GARD72977's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    TUPELO MS
    Posts
    898
    I doubt the OP has access to PROOF loads so a mix up is unlikely.
    " If you cant do it with a 308 , you dont need to do it!

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
    sutherpride59's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Living in Georgia but from Texas
    Posts
    294
    I think the OP is on some meds and probably shouldn’t be loading anything in his condition lol

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check