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Thread: confessions of a hippy type coating guy

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    nekshot's Avatar
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    confessions of a hippy type coating guy

    This morn as I was waiting for my batch of brass(dip cartridge head in powder and bump to knock off excess and stick mouth first into block of wood holder) to get baked I thought how easy this is. When I first heard of this bake on thing I went to HF and got a container of red. Took a plastic butter container and stole some airsoft balls from kids armament of air soft guns and put them in container with a bunch of red powder. Drilled holes in blocks of wood for nose of boolit. dumped some boolits into container and shook and swirled (could watch a tv morn exercise show as you do this) and then put the boolits nose into wood. Turn cheap walmart stove wide open and place wood on shelves. Sit back with a cup of coffee and flash lite and as soon as the red gets shiney I turn the dial to 400 degrees. Look at clock and give them 7 or 8 minutes. Take them out and dump water on them and when dry put them in jars and shootem. I never had a failure of any kind! I still use HF red and the same stove and except for looking at clock when item turns glossy red I am free of panic or questions that make you wonder if I am doing this right or am I going to get a pile of squad. I have done alot of other items that would fit into stove. Nice and simple void of a list of dos and dont's . That is the hippy way from what I know. This works for me and I would not be ashamed to shoot against any other boolit dipper. Really simple!
    Look twice, shoot once.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Are you painting boolits or cartridges or both?

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    I would make two points first just because the dial says 400 dosen't mean the oven is at 400 or that the oven stays at 400 during the cooking time. You need a good thermometer like a Taylor Glass Oven Guide about $12.

    The second point is timing starts when the actual object reaches 400 degrees not the oven temperature or when the coating starts to flow. The polymer will flow under 200 degrees and who know how long it will take your oven to reach 400 degrees? maybe never. As per the manufacturer, most powders require 10 minutes at temperature usually 400 degrees for the proper cross linking of the polymer to occur. Most add a little extra time to be sure. Just because the bullets come out with a gloss finish and you can beat them flat does not mean the polymer is properly cured and has reached its full hardness and durability, a popular misconception on this site.

    Just my two cents, but if you are happy with what is coming out so be it. By the way I grew up in the 60'a and hippies were non-violent, so they would have no need of bullets

  4. #4
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    I had never thought of powder coating the head of the cartridge. Does that tighten up loose primer pockets? Back in my young and foolish days I'd have been interested in something to tighten up those pockets after a few of those 65K psi loads...

  5. #5
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    It is scaring me to think of annealing the case heads. or do I misunderstand?
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hossfly View Post
    Are you painting boolits or cartridges or both?
    I use the powder coating on 75 percent of my shooting boolits. I have 8x57's and now a 8x51. The 51 is really hard to tell the differance, so the red bases stand out like a sore thumb.
    Look twice, shoot once.

  7. #7
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    I posted this to help newby's not get caught up in trying for perfect details in process. We need to keep the hobby fun and safe so more and more of the city cowboys and cowgirls get in it. This is not a knock on those who love meticulous details. It is simply my experience at powder coating. I also found that over 1500 fps I also lube the pc'd boolit with Simple Lube and generally the groups shrink a little bit. Enough for me to go to the extra effort. Cheers to u'all
    Look twice, shoot once.

  8. #8
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    I generally don't get powder in primer hole. I simply dab the cartridge bottom into powder about 1/4 inch. Then I tap against the plastic container as I lift out of container and then the mouth into wood block. I sometimes use the full length resizer and some of the red gets rubbed off but I still can still easily see the red. I really should not be typing because the meds really screw me up but I still like to act normal like I used to be. Oh well to each his own!
    Look twice, shoot once.

  9. #9
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    I don't understand what's going on here... are you baking loaded cartridges?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by frkelly74 View Post
    It is scaring me to think of annealing the case heads. or do I misunderstand?
    Sounds to me like he is annealing the case head as well.
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  11. #11
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    I think I smell a likely over-reaction to a little case head heating.

    This is only like 7 or 8 minutes in an air temp of around 400 °F. My first reaction was "heck I would not worry about too much softening of the head of an 8 x 51 case".

    Then a quick web search found:

    "The higher the annealing temperature, the shorter the time required to anneal. The grain structure of the brass begins to change - indicating the start of annealing - at just under 500 degrees Fahrenheit. At 600 degrees F, brass will anneal in one hour. At 800 degrees F, brass will take only a few seconds to anneal."

    So now that we know that nothing happens under 500 °F (and certainly nothing in the short time span of a powder coat cook), this sounds like a neat way to put a durable color indicator on the head of your brass.

    Now, I seem to be under the impression that a red base may have been used to indicate a proof load. So my only come back to the Op would be something like: hey nekshot, maybe you might want to use something other than red.

    Thanks nekshot.

    For the quick second guessers, just think how easy it was to find something closer to fact vs. hype.

    And as far as his original attitude that seemed to be "look how easy it is" without excess effort or precision, I can testify that "the least amount of cooking that gets reliable good results with a smash test" has worked quite well for me for many many sizable sessions with boolits that I push quite hard.
    Last edited by P Flados; 07-10-2018 at 11:04 PM.

  12. #12
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    nekshot, that's a right fine idea you had on coloring those case heads. I don't have confusion with 8mm's of any kind but I have found it is a real pain to try to pick my 38/40's off the ground from amongst my buddies 44/40's. I'm now gonna' color mine red!

    Sounds like you have a good attitude about makin' boolits. But I'm surprised a fellow such as yourself is still standing those powder-coated things up one at a time. I've been shaking all the loose powder off in a sieve and dumping them out on a tray lined with those plastic waffle-looking hot pads, 'cause I just don't have the patience to handle them that much. Haven't noticed any reduction in accuracy but I'm not that good a shot either so maybe I just can't tell the difference.

  13. #13
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    I would never bake a piece of brass and don't really see any need to color my brass heads. If I did a bit of spray paint or a magic marker would be my choice.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lloyd Smale View Post
    I would never bake a piece of brass and don't really see any need to color my brass heads. If I did a bit of spray paint or a magic marker would be my choice.
    Yeah, A Sharpie would be much easier and quicker.

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    ^^^ and how long does it take to anneal a sharpie ?
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  16. #16
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    I tried the magic color route and they all came off from handling except at the head lettering and if I have to pick up a piece of brass and look for the color in the lettering I might as well not do anything. I prefer easy!
    Look twice, shoot once.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoke4320 View Post
    ^^^ and how long does it take to anneal a sharpie ?
    not long . . . but you can only do it once per sharpie
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  18. #18
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    I doubt the OP has access to PROOF loads so a mix up is unlikely.

  19. #19
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    I think the OP is on some meds and probably shouldn’t be loading anything in his condition lol

  20. #20
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    I wouldn't think the short time in the oven for the brass would hurt it. And would you even need it to be in that long. Coating the bullets to pass a smash test this isn't. I would assume that once it flows it would only take a couple minutes to be done.
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