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Thread: forming 375 Win. cases

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    forming 375 Win. cases

    Anybody forming 375 Winchester cases from 30/30 brass, What is the process,

  2. #2
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    garandsrus's Avatar
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    Lots of people. A search should turn up the process.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Randy Bohannon's Avatar
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    Most people who are shooting cast bullets in their .375 Win.'s are using the Starline 38-55 Win. brass until they can obtain some proper brass. If I did,'t have any other choice but to reform 30-30 or buy 38-55 brass I would use the 38-55 Win. I use 38-55 Win. load data in my 94 BB and cast boolits with excellent accuracy.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I formed .375 cases using once fired R-P brass.
    I used Bullseye without any filler or bullet by putting a charged case in the rifle with the muzzle pointed into the air.
    I had to start low to work up a fire forming charge.
    The charge got higher than I was comfortable with yet some cases did not fire form well.
    I would suggest you plug the case with wax or a .31 caliber lead ball to insure the shoulder and neck blow out completely.

    Rather than use the thin wall Starline .38-55 brass I would prefer the thicker WW .38-55 brass if you can find it.
    EDG

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    How about a light charge of TightGroup to be determined during the testing with a filler of Cream of Wheat or some such thing with a tissue paper wad to seal the case mouth. Tissue to just be stuffed in and only enough as necessary. Think that would work

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub CA Dude's Avatar
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    I form 400 Whelen cases of 30-06 brass, which is almost a straight bodied case like the 375 Win. I do it by using 14 grs of Red Dot powder. A 40 S&W case full of grit on top of the powder change. A wad of tissue paper pushed in on top of the grit. And I seal it with a crayon pushed onto the neck of the case. I hold the rifle muzzle up and pull the trigger. The tissue falls like snow, the crayon doesn't leave the yard and my brass turns out great.

    CA Dude

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    Now thanks That was good info, Just what I was looking for. I will reduce the charge on the fast powder and increase until I get a decent fireform. Now that I know how to make the cases I will buy the rifle

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    I made up 100 out of Federal 30/30 brass. Loaded 7 grs Bullseye and filled case with cornmeal
    muffin mix. Still a Muzzel up proposition. Used a TC 375W and all 100 blew out nicely. These come
    out just a tad short of speck. Only loaded these at 38/55 levels with cast boolits. Have used them
    in TC, Marlin lever and Ruger #3s. Don't trust them for hot jacketed loads but some guys are doing it and haven't herd of case separation yet.

    I have no experience with Starline 38/55 all my 38/55 brass is Win. The mention of Starline being
    lighter/ thinner that Win reminds me of a question I have. The Starline 375Win, is it the same case
    as the 38/55, just shortened & head stamped? If this is the case I would just blow out 30/30s. I
    don't have that worry anymore I've got plenty of new Win brass and 1x fired, not to mention a
    large stash of 2x-5x brass, all Win.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Originally a .375 case was heavier than .30 -30 brass.
    Some .30-30 cases I have checked are just as thick as .375s.
    EDG

  10. #10
    In Remembrance Reverend Al's Avatar
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    I've been fire-forming .30-30 cases into "shooter" (short) .38-55 and .32-40 cases for years. You'll have a better success rate if you anneal your cases first (about 1/2 way down the body) as it will help to prevent splits, especially if the brass you are forming has been fired several times before as .30-30. I prime the cases (usually with live primers I have saved from pulled down ammunition so that I'm not wasting new, fresh primers) then charge them with 5 to 8 grains of whatever fast burning shotgun or pistol powder I have on hand. (Lately it's been Nitro 100 Trap powder since I have quite a bit of it right now.) Using a wooden dowel I press 1/4 sheet of toilet tissue down onto the powder charge and then fill the case to just short of the mouth with bulk yellow cornmeal. I top that off with another 1/4 sheet of toilet tissue seated with the wooden dowel. Head to the range, chamber a round, point the muzzle of the rifle straight up into the air (the cases form straight and not lopsided that way) and fire-form. You'll get a light rain of cornmeal drifting back down onto your shooting position so wear a hat ...
    I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!

  11. #11
    Boolit Bub
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    Great info guys keep um coming Thanks John N

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Skipper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reverend Al View Post
    I've been fire-forming .30-30 cases into "shooter" (short) .38-55 and .32-40 cases for years. You'll have a better success rate if you anneal your cases first (about 1/2 way down the body) as it will help to prevent splits, especially if the brass you are forming has been fired several times before as .30-30. I prime the cases (usually with live primers I have saved from pulled down ammunition so that I'm not wasting new, fresh primers) then charge them with 5 to 8 grains of whatever fast burning shotgun or pistol powder I have on hand. (Lately it's been Nitro 100 Trap powder since I have quite a bit of it right now.) Using a wooden dowel I press 1/4 sheet of toilet tissue down onto the powder charge and then fill the case to just short of the mouth with bulk yellow cornmeal. I top that off with another 1/4 sheet of toilet tissue seated with the wooden dowel. Head to the range, chamber a round, point the muzzle of the rifle straight up into the air (the cases form straight and not lopsided that way) and fire-form. You'll get a light rain of cornmeal drifting back down onto your shooting position so wear a hat ...
    +1 It also removes any residual leading from your barrel, too!
    The strongest reason for the people to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against the tyranny of government.
    -- Thomas Jefferson

  13. #13
    In Remembrance Reverend Al's Avatar
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    ... and it smells great!

    I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    i bought the tapered expander from lee. just lightly anneal the 30-30 and run them into the sizer die with the tapered expander.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master wrench man's Avatar
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    I turned down an OLD RCBS 30 Carbine decapping die stem to the correct O.D. on the lathe, NEW Remington 30-30 cases were dipped into the ISDW and in a simple working of the press handle I had 375/38-55 short brass, no loss out of the 100 cases.
    ASE master certified engine machinist
    Brake & Alignment specialist, ricer to class 8

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I have usually found Remington brass to have a good neck anneal so they tend to form both up and down with few problems.
    EDG

  17. #17
    Boolit Mold
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    http://www.gunstop.com/products/relo...iber-30-to-375

    I thought Lyman made one of these also but could not find it. I have used 30-30 brass in my 375 contender and never had a problem.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    so simple a cave man can do it!

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    corn meal shot at the range makes the shooters ask who is baking cookies? same with rice crispies.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    REVERAND AL, when you make 32/40 out of 30/30 do you have to trim them be for or after fire forming?

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