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Thread: Nepalese Snider Fun

  1. #1
    Boolit Master jugulater's Avatar
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    Nepalese Snider Fun

    This isnt my first "Nepal Cache" Gun, that honor goes to a IMA "cleaned and Complete" Mk.IV Martini Henry That is awesome and im still waiting to get brass for so i can shoot it, But this is my first "Untouched" gun. And holy Cow they really Meant Untouched! This thing was absolutely filthy! so after a day of getting it at least clean enough to be allowed in the House i feel pretty good about my buy.

    The Good: I got a 99% complete Nepalese Made Snider with a clean bore that is mechanically sound, with a Bayonet!

    The Bad: The Stock is ugly and has multiple minor bits of damage and a rather large broken bit behind the rear barrel band, and the rear sight is broken.

    all and all the stock issues are no big deal, and the sight can be replaced if i suddenly decide i need to shoot past 100 Yards.
    Tomorrow ill take a swing at cleaning it up some more and slug the barrel, Hopefully ill be shooting this Ugly thing soon!

    Speaking of shooting it any advice on what kind of Boolits i should use is greatly appreciated. Ive read that .600 Round balls shoot well in most Sniders, but ive also read that some sniders have a different twist rate that really requires a conical boolit.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's the snider hanging out with my Mk.IV ( with a 1912 Chilean Mauser and a 1888 Commission as well)

  2. #2
    Boolit Master



    curator's Avatar
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    Jugulator,

    Nepaleze Sniders can be fun or frustrating. They were made with the special "Enfield" rifling that has grooves deeper at the breech and tapering towards the muzzle. Getting a conical to shoot well in one of them is a combination of luck and skill. I have had the best success using .600 round balls and cut-down 24 gauge all-brass shot shells. Buffalo Arms is a good source for these shells that I believe are made in Brazil. The best source for answers to your questions is the "British Militaria" website: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/brit...ef775e8a8ce394

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Very cool. I've always wanted to try one.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master jugulater's Avatar
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    I had no clue about the rifling depth being tapered, that sure makes it complicated.

    i can understand the frustration, im sure theres huge amounts of variation in these old guns.

    ive been having some real issues getting 24 Gauge shells to make 577-450 Shells, so ill probably just get some of the expensive purpose made .577 snider brass for this project.

    And yes its been a really cool experience But it is not for the faint of Heart! its a serious project cleaning these things up.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    satisfying to make one of these boom. i have been shooting an egyptian re-build with the plastic fiocchi and 600 rb over 50 grains of 2F and beeswax/olive oil lube. the idea of .535 saboted in standard 24 gauge shotcups also worked well.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master jugulater's Avatar
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    Its funny you posted that today because i just finished loading up some test rounds for this snider. i have cleaned it up a lot more and found that it is double unit marked! i would post a nice picture of it all pretty but im too lazy to tonight.

    my test rounds are 60Grn of 2F with the Lee .600 RoundBall.

    if its anything like shooting the Martini Henry it will be loads of Fun.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check