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Thread: Case Lub

  1. #1
    Boolit Master DeanoBeanCounter's Avatar
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    Case Lub

    Seems like the place to put this, move if needed.
    I know that you should clean the case lub off after resizing. How do you clean it off? Do you clean it off? Should you clean it off? What lub do you use? In short, what is the most efficient/quickest way to clean your brass after resizing?
    Dean

  2. #2
    Boolit Master



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    I run mine through a wet tumbler
    May not be fast, quick or easy, but it works
    I use Unique or Dillon case lube
    "Had his shooting been as good as his running, he might have given a better account of himself."
    James. C. Henderson

  3. #3
    Vendor Sponsor

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    I make my own lube, and I use the wet stainless pin method for cleaning.
    Click to see what I'm doing and have available, this takes you to the VS (Vendor Sponsor) section of the site. Currently..25Rem,30Rem, 32Rem, 35Rem, 257Roberts, 358Win, 338Fed, 357 Herrett, 30 Herrett, 401 Winchester, 300Sav, 221 Fireball, 260Rem, 222Rem, 250 Savage, 8mm Mauser (AKA 8x57), 25-20WCF

    Annealing Services

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/foru...php?117-Grumpa






  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    I either run the cases through the tumbler or spray them with brake cleaner and roll them around on a towel. If you only have a few you can wipe them off with a rag.
    Last edited by lightman; 07-09-2018 at 02:39 AM.

  5. #5
    Grouchy Old Curmudgeon

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    I use Imperial sizing wax/lube a lot and then I clean in a tumbler. I clean in a tumbler with the primer in before I size and then do it again after sizing. I usually clean the first time as soon as I get back from shooting. I try and get brass ready to load long before I need to load it again and I shoot so many different calibers that this process never holds me back from shooting. Just drop them in the tumbler and go do other things. One thing I can tell you though.....if you put them in the tumbler at 6 in the evening and then forget about them until 4 in the afternoon the next day......they get REAL shiney......lol.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I use water soluble lube, put the brass in a perforated container, rinse the brass in hot water, and let them dry. In the summer, I dry them outside in the sun, in the winter, set them on a furnace duct over night.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


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    Case lube? That sure would make resizing 06 and 8mm brass a lot easier!
    If I’m doing a large batch I ultra clean after sizing if doing a small “experimental “ batch I sometimes just clean with a rag and a swab for the case mouth on bottle necked cases such as 30-30. The Marvel case lube is very easy to wipe off.

  8. #8
    Boolit Man


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    I use hornaday one shot spray lube. Then i toss the loaded rounds in the dry tumbler for about 10mins. Come out looking like factory rounds.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Dignified? I signed up for brave and courageous, not dignified!

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I too use Imperial on my bottleneck cases, then put them in a tumbler w/corn cob media and a dose of
    Nu Finish. My pistol and revolver cases are sized with carbide dies.....
    Tom
    μολὼν λαβέ

    Adults are just children with much better toys..

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I don't care for the spray lubes as the spray can send lube into locations where it does not belong. I use a lube pad and RCBS lube. After the cases are sized I wipe them down with a t-shirt or towel. This is the one lube that will come off the cases the easiest of any I have tried and still sends cases through a sizing die with minimal resistance.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    I believe RCBS case lube is STP repackaged. I use Bag Balm and wipe it off, too. Better for the hands than STP.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    I use a little Lanolin mixed with 91 percent alcohol, leaves your hands soft to.
    jim

  13. #13
    Boolit Man Went2kck's Avatar
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    I use a wet towel and wipe it off. Works for me and its free.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    I generally only load up to 50 at a time. Lube is RCBS. After sizing I wipe it off with a towel. Buy the yellow microfiber towels at Costco, 36 to a pack for like $16. Once they get dirty they get washed.
    East Tennessee

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    I am old and old fashioned and still use sticky type lube like RCBS.
    I mix 1/2 Motor Honey with 1/2 light oil.
    After sizng, I wipe them with a cloth and toss them in my vibratory tumbler with walnut shells for an hour to clean the remaining lube off.
    I use this lube because I am of the opinion "if it ain`t broke don`t fix it" because after 50 years of reloading I have never stuck case in a sizing die with this type of lube.
    And yes, it is messy..dale

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I use Imperial case lube and wipe it off with a micro fiber cloth from Harbor Freight. I rarely do more than 100 at a time. hc18flyer

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    If I am doing a large amount I will use this as well a little Lanolin mixed with 91 percent alcohol (I have found that it seems to work better for me if I let the lube dry for a bit) then wet tumble with stainless steel pins. When I do a small batch I will use imperial sizing wax and wipe off with a rag, some times I well add a bit of paint thinner on the rag seems to get all the stuff off better.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    I guess maybe I am just a stickler.
    I use Dillon case lube or make my own (99% Isopropyl alcohol and anhydrous lanolin at 8:1 ratio) and lightly spray, roll them around in the container, let them dry, and resize/decap.
    I typically (at least with rifle brass) will then clean and swage the primer pockets, the trim and chamfer the case mouths. I'll wipe the brass trimmings with my fingers to make sure there is nothing on the outside to harm the dies.
    I leave the lube on all through the reloading process, and inspect at every step.
    Just before I put them into the cartridge containers, I wipe them off....yup....one at a time....a final inspection and cleaning off.
    I usually load in lots of 1000 on the Dillon 550, so that little extra step gives me the confidence that my reloads are perfect.
    Yes it takes a bit longer but I have not had a faulty reload in many years.....and they sure look pretty....
    Winters are long and hard here in NH....what's a poor boy to do all winter except brass prep, cast and reload?
    Last edited by FISH4BUGS; 07-09-2018 at 09:14 AM.
    Collector and shooter of guns with selector switches and threaded barrels. Collector of suppressors, SBR's, AOW's and SBS's. Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master


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    All cases are de-primed and SS/citric cleaned. If required the pockets are swaged/reamed and flash holes cleared and beveled. Lanolin and alcohol lubed before sizing means no damage to dies. Trimming and chamfering leaves brass debris so cob tumbling removes it along with lube. Most cases are processed in 1000+ pc lots.
    Information not shared. is wasted.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Home made case lube size then wet tumble. I remember the original RCBS case lube
    1970s version tried everything to get it off ended up using a hot tank with triclorethyline in work,5 second exposure and clean as a whistle.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check