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Thread: Polyurethane as a stock finish ?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Polyurethane as a stock finish ?

    For years I have used Tru-oil for a stock finish but with the new polyurethane, wipe ons now being made why not use one ?

  2. #2
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    I have used the Minwax wipe on and spray. Both work great. Here's a wipe on poly resultClick image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    Uncle Grinch's Avatar
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    I’ve used the satin spray as a top coat. Satin adds a touch of class in my opinion.
    Shoot Safe,
    Mike

    Retired Telephone Man
    NRA Endowment Member
    Marion Road Gun Club
    ( www.marionroad.com )

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy redhawk0's Avatar
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    I've always mixed my own finish. Tung Oil and Polyurethane. 2:1. (modified from my original notes below) I use only gloss finish as it has more protective solids in it than matte or satin finish. If I want a satin, I rub it down when completely dry with scotchbright pads. (lightly) I do no less than 10 thin coats and always hand rubbed on.

    redhawk

    My original notes on the subject.


    Refinishing Instructions for Firearm Stocks
    These instructions were checked over by Jim Kull who is a professional woodworker and
    refinisher. He was a guest on the ShootersTalk board in Mid-1999. He was instrumental in
    teaching us some of the finer points of wood refinishing and his methods have been adapted to
    suit stock refinishing…..Here we go.
    READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING....Remove barreled action and any
    other accessories from the wooden stock. Now you can begin the stripping process. Start by
    stripping off the old finish with the heaviest can of stripper you can find. The heavier the can, the
    more stripping chemical that is present. Apply and rub the stripper with a Burgundy 3M pad
    (ScotchBrite) or Green 3M pad (ScotchBrite). DON’T FORGET TO WEAR RUBBER
    GLOVES, SAFETY GLASSES, and RESPIRATOR. Use a nylon or brass brush to get into the
    checkering. After you feel you have all the old finish off, wipe it down (hose it down) with
    mineral spirits. Let it air dry. (this method requires no sanding and thus removes NO wood). After
    it is thoroughly dry, check for any left over finish and residues. The next step is to apply your
    favorite OIL stain with a new white 3M pad (ScotchBrite). Always apply the stain with the
    direction of the grain of the wood. Let it stand 10-15 minutes and wipe off excess with a clean rag
    (Used cotton T-shirts work real well).
    DO NOT APPLY STAIN DIRECTLY TO CHECKERING. Put stain on a rag and let partially
    dry before applying to checkering. The checkering will have end grain wood exposed and will
    soak up more stain then the cross grain wood parts. Dark patches could appear if stain is applied
    directly to the checkering. Apply multiple coats to the stock until desired depth of color is
    achieved. Let the stock air dry for minimum of 24 hours. Next is the finish....get a can of your
    favorite Gloss Polyurethane/Varnish finish. Always use GLOSS. It contains more protective
    solids. Thin it 2/3 finish with 1/3 mineral spirits, as thin as 50/50 will work fine. Next apply it
    with your fingers not a rag. You don't want any fuzz particles or dust to get on the stock at this
    point. Apply 2 LIGHT coats of finish with 2-6 hours between coats(depending on temp and
    humidity). Then apply the third LIGHT coat and let dry overnight. (DO NOT APPLY FINISH
    TOO HEAVILY...Don't try to rush the finish process) Next rub stock with a new white 3M pad
    (ScotchBrite) to keep everything smooth. Tack rag off residue and dust. Then apply another 2
    coats 2-6 hours between and then a third to dry overnight then buff with a white pad
    again....repeat this process until 12-15 coats have been applies. The last coat can be left alone if
    you like the gloss finish or buff it lightly with a NEW white 3M pad (ScotchBrite) for a satin
    finish....This will take several days to complete but the results are worth it. After the final coat has
    dried for 3-5 days apply a good paste wax. Car wax works fine. Buff vigorously with a cotton rag
    (used T-shirt again) for a nice sheen (this works for both the gloss and satin finish) The wax adds
    and extra layer of protection.
    ScotchBrite to Steel wool conversions….Burgundy = #0… Green = #00… Grey = #000 and
    White = #0000....
    Redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.


    Not all who wander....are lost.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    fecmech's Avatar
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    I've use the Chempak ProCustom which is a tung oil/poly mix. I've done 5 stocks with it and it's great to work with. My first stock was Truoil but I like the Procustom better.
    "Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It would be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience."
    - C. S. Lewis

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    nekshot's Avatar
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    That stock finish makes me feel good! I am just a low educated farm boy bu it seems I figured out a professional stock finish on my own! Took me 50 years but we got there. I love spraying a coat of Dupli-Color Matte Wheel Clearcoat on stock. Also if you strip metal and buff as in preparing for bluing but spray with this stuff it absolutely comes out amazing. Takes on a hazy neat look that makes you want to do more.
    Look twice, shoot once.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nekshot View Post
    That stock finish makes me feel good! I am just a low educated farm boy bu it seems I figured out a professional stock finish on my own! Took me 50 years but we got there. I love spraying a coat of Dupli-Color Matte Wheel Clearcoat on stock. Also if you strip metal and buff as in preparing for bluing but spray with this stuff it absolutely comes out amazing. Takes on a hazy neat look that makes you want to do more.
    How that is a new one.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check